When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I pushed the bushes out of my strut rods today (to make sure I could get them out without trouble before ordering new ones). The ones that have come out don't have an outer metal sleeve, like the replacements that are shown on your website. Any idea why this is?
Thanks
John
I pushed the bushes out of my strut rods today (to make sure I could get them out without trouble before ordering new ones). The ones that have come out don't have an outer metal sleeve, like the replacements that are shown on your website. Any idea why this is?
Thanks
John
Sure do.
The original strut rods had the bushings made into them when they are produced. Since you have no way to Mold the busing into the strut, the only solution is to put a sleeve on the outside edge so that you can press them in place. Without the sleeve you can't do this. Once the new bushings are installed you can't see the sleeve either, it's hid by the the spindle support and the center bracket.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 06-13-2019 at 05:31 PM.
I'm having Kevin make two more of the tools today, I guess I'll put them on the site and see how they go. While crude in nature they work perfectly. If they do I'll possibly think of making them out of some flat stock permanently. The issue are; you do one side at a time and if the spring is being replaced you have to find a way to expand it to insert the tool so you can install it. I don't remember how we expanded the spring the last time but when the guys get in the shop today I'll ask them.
E
Ernie
The tool seems be perfect for working on the deck lid springs. Of course I have no clue as to why the lid does not open all the wayside. I guess weak original 45 year old springs. I took some pictures and hope that will show you what’s the problem is. The springs are painted (probably when restoratio0n does in 2009), they are not broken pieces either?
As always thanks for your diagnosis.
Eli
Pushing downward on the lever shown below will release the door even if the door is locked.
Your car has what was called an anti theft shield over the door lock. This was because back in the older days people would jamb an ice pick through the fiberglass and open or unlock the door. So getting to this lever can be a trick especially if you have the anti theft shields in place.
You have the shields so you’ll have to pry around it (or through it) to get a long screw drive on that lever. Doing this will more than likely damage the shield but the is not mandatory for the lock or door to work.
I knew you would... you have to get medieval on that shield to get there.... and while it will in most cased destroy the shield, it's not something that's very important these days.. In the old days yeah.... but today they're looking to steal c5's and newer...
Ernie
The tool seems be perfect for working on the deck lid springs. Of course I have no clue as to why the lid does not open all the wayside. I guess weak original 45 year old springs. I took some pictures and hope that will show you what’s the problem is. The springs are painted (probably when restoratio0n does in 2009), they are not broken pieces either?
As always thanks for your diagnosis.
Eli
Eli,
Today I sent an order to the shop to fab up three of the spring tools... Since no one is making this tool any longer I figured what the heck... From your pics I'll assume the lid is closed because the spring is stretched. So what you need to do is insert the tool... then move it on the arm to make it tighter when the deck lid is closed. https://willcoxcorvette.com/decklid-...ing-tool-63-75
So... with the deck lid closed, you buy the tool, insert it into the back side of the spring and then open the deck lid. Doing this will collect the spring in the tool and then you can move it to where ever needed to make the tension stronger.
If the three tools sell from the site then I"ll possibly pursue buying flat stock and making them from new stock vs. making them from left over items. But the tools I put on the site today will work just fine.... you just need to increase the tension on the spring. And if there isn't enough left then you'll need to replace the spring. I have both on the shelf now ... and if you want one pre-loaded I can to that too... the only issue is I'm leaving Weds. for three weeks.
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 06-15-2019 at 12:02 AM.
Ernie,could you give me some advice on why my ac. The fan does not work at all on max.
its a 69. The relay is new. Could it be the resistor. Or the switch on the heater control.
Thanks Jim
Ernie,could you give me some advice on why my ac. The fan does not work at all on max.
its a 69. The relay is new. Could it be the resistor. Or the switch on the heater control.
Thanks Jim
Okay.. it's a 69...and you have AC.. While the relay is new the wires may be bad or even the terminals... it's a common issue.
Does the blower run on the other speeds? It could be a switch in the heater control issue and here is how to test it.
But I doubt this is the issue... you probably have a wiring issue on the high blower side... so follow the schematic below and you should be able to figure it out.
I did a post on this a long time ago, and I'll dig it up if possible... but it should help you. But I'm out of town until the 5th of July so you might want to search the archives.
E
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 06-16-2019 at 08:00 PM.
Ernie
Unfortunately the pictures of the deck springs are with the deck lid in the open position. Does that indicate that new springs are needed?
Do you know if the AIM or Service Manual gives instructions on expanding the spring tension, or should I just order new springs and move on?
Have a safe and relaxing trip. Be careful when you are jogging!
Eli
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Hey Ernie, Have a great vacation!
. Quick question before you go, the waterpump belt that is a tension fit from the crank to the water pump only, what length is it for a 68, whats the correct name for the belt and I couldnt find it on your site, do you carr it or know the gates number? I couldnt find it on their site either.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 06-17-2019 at 07:32 AM.
Thanks forgetting back to me Ernie. All of the wiring is new also.
The fan switch works on all speeds except max ,the position at
the top of the control. Think I will have a look at the control.
have a nice Vacation. Maybe we can talk when you get back.
I had my driver window adjusted satisfactorily. Until I put my door panel on. It presses against the window and doesn't allow full travel.
These are reproduction panels for an '81. How can I create more space and reduce the tension on the door glass?
These panels fit terribly.
Craig
Craig, (and I know I've skipped some of you.. when I have more time I'll get back to these prior un-answered questions, just remember I'm no vacation )
I've not had any issue with the repro door panels (then newer versions from about 4 years to today prior), but typically when the panel is pushing to hard against the glass the metal fingers that the panel clips over are possibly bent. If you bent these inward a little then fit the panel back to the door it may solve your issue.
We just installed a set of repro panels about six months ago and didn't have any issues... .so the only thing I can to go is the fingers that the top of the panel hooks to.
If you look at the picture above that I made a few years ago, I even put the note on there to make sure the upper tabs were not bent.
. Quick question before you go, the waterpump belt that is a tension fit from the crank to the water pump only, what length is it for a 68, whats the correct name for the belt and I couldnt find it on your site, do you carr it or know the gates number? I couldnt find it on their site either.
Big block or small block? E I believe I have the original GM part number in my system so it'll be easy to check.
Thanks forgetting back to me Ernie. All of the wiring is new also.
The fan switch works on all speeds except max ,the position at
the top of the control. Think I will have a look at the control.
have a nice Vacation. Maybe we can talk when you get back.
Okay... then go to the schematic I posted above and check the power flow on the high blower side. The low side goes though the resistor so they are easy to check by just unplugging the resistor connection and testing each wire for power at the given speed. The high side is direct though...
I'm going to look, I believe I have an easier to read schematic I posted somewhere.... it should help you trace it out for sure. But the issue is on the high side of the system for sure.
So you see the orange wire running from the horn relay into the car... that's where you start. The orange wire has an inline fuse that could either be missing from the new harness or blown... so check that first. Then I'd go to the horn relay and check for power at the relay. If you don't have it there you won't have high blow. If you do have power there then you have a relay issue or something else.... so leap around the relay with the blower in high and see if you have power at the blower motor...
Now an old school trick is to take a circuit tester and probe the wires. But you said the harness was new so you really don't want to be poking large holes in wires to test... but years ago we took a circuit tester and put it on a grinding wheel for probing wires... we made the end of it needle thin so you really only put a tiny hole in the wire. Now in your case on this car it's as simple as just testing the terminal so you shouldn't need to actually probe the wires... so unplug stuff and test away, I'm sure you'll find your issue.
Also note, that when the power leaves the resistor the purple wire powers up the relay when in any speed but high.... This switches the current so you can't get power from the high side....
Then when you put it in high blow, mode the dark blue wire powers up the relay from the switch, this puts the orange and purple in contact at the relay and gives the motor direct 12v.
Ernie
Okay found it..
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 06-18-2019 at 08:09 PM.
Ernie
Unfortunately the pictures of the deck springs are with the deck lid in the open position. Does that indicate that new springs are needed?
Do you know if the AIM or Service Manual gives instructions on expanding the spring tension, or should I just order new springs and move on?
Have a safe and relaxing trip. Be careful when you are jogging!
Eli
No.... the spring collages when in the open position and expands when closed (thus the tension). So if you need more pressure you close the lid, reach around and insert the tool. Then you open the lid and the tool will catch it so that you can move it to a harder position. I suspect it's probably in one of the middle teeth so move it outward a little bit and you should be fine... If not, I have the spring in stock.
Hey Ernie! Check your email! I've sent two and haven't heard back. You must be too busy filling orders! 👍
Not sure what or why you emailed me but when you send them put your forum user name in there and I'm sure I'll find it. Or just post your question here....
Some emails sent through the forum get marked as spam too... so I might be missing them because of this. Service@Willcoxcorvette.com is the best way to email me.
06-13-2019, 11:59 AM
