0Willcox Corvette

Okay.. here is what I came up with.. You should be able to cross this at your local parts store. Now the issue is installing it. You get this thing as close as you can to being on and then hit the starter to roll it over. It's about the only way you'll get this in place, big block or small block. At times I've even used a flat screw driver to try to force it further into the pulley and then have a buddy hit the key. It should roll in place and even if it rolls on it's side it's easy to flip it once it's on the pulley "again with a flat screw driver" and some what we call in the shop... a good Influence. I'm out for tonight catch you guys in probably two days.

Idler / water pump belt, GM # 3941116, 35.14" length, 3/8” top width.
1968 w/300 h.p. w/o A/C, 2nd design.
1969-70 w/300 h.p., w/o A/C.
1971 w/330 h.p. and 270 h.p., w/o A/C and/or P/S

nix1981

What does this belt (GM 3941116) do? My 69 doesn't have this belt.

0Willcox Corvette

Idler tension pulley belt...

1969-70 w/300 h.p., w/o A/C.

E

0Willcox Corvette

If I missed someone please post back.. I'll check in two days from now.

Ernie

JBrooke825

Thanks Ernie,I can read that one.Ill get back to you.

nix1981

Right, but what's the benefit or purpose? My water pump pulley has two grooves, and no reason to believe it's not the original, and is a 69 300hp w/o AC....so if one for the Alt, and one for the smog pump (which is not there, but if it were, than it would take up all WP grooves) where or how would this install?? I either have the wrong pulley, or I never had that belt. The HB pulley does have an extra groove...

Thanks!

Nick

finest kind

Thanks for all your support, Ernie!

My question:

is there a way to determine when a temp gauge is suddenly not working, if it is the sending unit or the gauge? One without ripping apart dash, and 2, not dumping coolant?

I apologize, I did ask this a few months back, can't find the answers...

peter

Rescue Rogers

thanks Ernie!!

Rescue Rogers

While Ernies on vacation you can go to his website and check his troubleshooting section. He has a visual reference that tells you what is going on.
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...ue-is-present/

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/c...re-gauge-info/

I had a problem for a bit with the connection at the sendor getting loose and coming off, i just gave it a little squeeze with some pliers to tighten it up and i stopped falling off.

737av8or

I lost a fan belt and overheated my 1975 C3 with a rebuilt 350 L48. After replacing the fan belt the temp gauge was intermittent some times working and sometimes not, when it was working it was reading wrong both high and low but never correct as verified with an infrared thermometer and an old school mechanical gauge. I replaced the sending unit and the gauge did not work at all, never coming off the 100 degree mark.

A forum member suggested that the modern sending unit will not work with my vintage 1975 gauge. Is this sending unit the proper one for my 1975 350? Thanks for the help!

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...79-3-8-npt-new

Part # 6490453A

Rescue Rogers

If your testing indicates a need for a new sendor, buy it from Ernie

bmonteer

Seat question......


Hi Ernie I was told to ask you this question.i ordered some new mounted seat covers from you guys a few days ago..Is there any tricks to getting the seats off the clam shells???i have seen your diagrams that show the tabs.. do I need to make a special tool to get the wires off and on and back in the tabs..thanks for any advice you may have..also this can be done without taking the seats completely out of the car I am assuming...thank you Bryan

0Willcox Corvette

I have a jumbo pry bar that has a bend on the end... then we put a notch in it..... But this a three foot long pry bar that looks like a screw driver. The bend on the end is about 30 degree's. So for us we just jamb it in there and sometimes it's not easy... but if you got mounted covers it might be easier for you just to cut the old covers away and then remove the wires from the clips.

Scott... gonna need to add you to payroll for a few weeks.

This jet lag is killing me right now... Three time zones is wearing me out... Thanks for helping out. By the time I get up it's noon at home.

Ernie

l82vett

Ernie, I purchased the rear end front mount snubber cushion kit from Wilcox. In the picture diagram description and previous posting from you state that the 1980 front differential mount hole would need to be enlarged . You stated 7/8", the size of the sleeve mounted in the upper cushion. Now after looking at the snubber cushion ,I don't understand why it would need enlarging. The upper cushion has the sleeve mounted into it, it sets on top of the crossmember. The larger cushion goes below the crossmember sandwiched between the crossmember and the front differential. The sleeve inserts into it. the bolt supplied drops through the top and out the bottom of the front differential mounting hole. Add washer and nut. The sleeve cannot continue through the cushion as the molded in washer hole is 1/2" diameter, same as the top cushion. Also the bolt , washers and nut supplied are 3/8" , ? why are they not the size of the molded in washers? Also, the instructions for replacing this cushion needs a little rework, there is no way that when you remove the mount nut that the cushion will fall into your hand , that could only happen if the front of the differential was broken off. I just need to know why the differential mount hole needs enlarging. Thanks.

0Willcox Corvette

If the new snubber kit fits into the hole in the front of the rear end then someone has already modified it. The original size hole wouldn't allow this so if the cushion fits into it then roll on with it.

E

l82vett

So what your saying your rear end drawing illustration is not the way the cushion is to be installed? So help me some, does the small cushion with the sleeve go under the rear mount with the sleeve going up? and that is why the hole needs enlarging? and the large cushion is sandwiched between the cross member or on top of the cross member?

Eliredandblack

Ernie
I trust you are having good weather while on vacation. On my 73 with T/T steering wheel, the turn signal does not cancel out when I make a left hand turn when departing my sub division. Last year I changed out the Turn Signal Switch (with help from your tech section on removing the Harmonica Connector), and Tommy sent me a new horn contact retainer. I was probably in a hurry to put everything back together (I have a 10 minute memory recall - even with lots of photos) and happily the horn worked fine as well as the turn signals. I never looked very close at the Turn Signal Cancel Cam for wear. I would say the turn signals cancel about 60 % of the time (Left and Right). Do you recommend purchasing a new Cancel Cam, or is there something else that I am overlooking.

Have a relaxing vacation, and watch out when you are out jogging.
Eli
ps. It was in the high 90s in Atlanta today

nix1981

Kinda back to on old question on speedo/tach cable lubrication.... Can I pull the cable out from the sleeve and lubricate without disconnecting from the back of the speedo and cluster? My thought was once the cable is lubricated to just slowly twist/wiggle it back in so it's seated - watching the needles on the clusters to make sure. I just REALLY don't want to go digging around the back of the gauge cluster trying to disconnect them if I don't have too.

Thanks!

Nick

LenWoodruff

Ernie on your website for the information to check my gauges. I was looking for the ohms reading for the different needle locations to see if my gauges are working or not.

Here is my problem.

The Temp Gauge reads below the mark between the 9 & 12 o'clock. But the inferred says the upper radiator hose is about 185

My oil pressure seems high as it read about 45-50 at idle and 65 plus at 70 MPH

My gas gauge is way past full when I fill it up. But it shows about 1/4 full when empty.

Thanks in advance.

interpon

My tachometer has smooth movement like in oil...when i turn the key on it goes below 0 and does not move regardless of engine. I purchas d my new willcox circuit board and the problem is the same, goes to below 0..its like it slow fall
s with ignition off depending on what side of center it is on...key on and below 0 again.
i verified the connections as per web site ground, wire continuity and 12v where they should be..

also if i move needle to right of top center and hit key it drops to right maxed out
I also bypassed filter which then snapped off...
79 l82

thank you for help @Willcox Corvette