Norm07

Just putting my front control arms back together and I am not sure if I have an issue. I did a test fit of my bushings (Moog K304) on my lower control arm shafts. I found they slipped on quite easily with some slight play. I don recall them being this loose when I removed them. The bushings appear to fit the control arms ( I would have to press them in). So I guess my question is.....are they worn that bad or is this acceptable to have slight play? Any input would be appreciated.

Mooser

The bushing needs to be loose enough on the shaft to rotate and take the weight of the car, then once the bolt is tightened it will lock the inner sleeve in place (with the suspension at ride height)

That said, they should be "snug" on the shaft when not tightened as in no slop. I read somewhere that if you held the shaft with the arm hanging down you should be able to slowly rotate the shaft and lift the arm up to around 30-45 degrees and then it would start to slip...
take that for what it's worth it's just making the shaft/sleeve take the slop rather than trying to take it out with the bolt.

If you have access to a lathe or a local machine shop they can knurl the shafts a little to improve the fit.





Then again on a street car you may never notice
M

M

doorgunner

The original bushings were probably "rusted in place" when you removed them. Once I assembled the new bushings onto the original shaft and arm there was no slack or "slop"

aerofix

I installed the same Moog parts on my lower control arm. I have one not put together yet. Shaft ends measure anywhere from 0.738"-0.741" OD(tried several areas). The bushings are not as precise since is a welded sleeve, but run around 0.750"ID. So that could give you up to 0.012" play. Once you press the whole thing together there is no noticeable play and the shaft can be turned by hand, it's tight but turns by hand. You can feel it rubbing on the bushing serrations. At least this is how it worked out on my 1976. Good luck.

Norm07

Mooser,DG......OK that helps. I like the idea of the knurling. I was able to dig the old inner sleeves out of my scrap bin, and they fit the same way. Considering all the accuracy and precision that goes along with installing the bushings ....with the help of a BFH, I suspect the misalignment in the control arms will make up for the slight play. I think I will need to put one together and see how tight it is.
Thanks again Guys

Mooser

Biggest thing to remember is that they need to be in their "loaded" position when you tighten the bolts and the rubber flexes up and down from there. Too many bushings torn by having them tightened with the suspension hanging and then blaming the manufacturer when they fail in no time .
M

doorgunner

Be very careful driving the bushings in with a BFH....I have been told that the control arm can be slightly bent on the ends where the bushings go in. The arm needs to be supported in a vice/etc.

Norm07

Mooser....thanks for the heads up on the bolt tightening....not sure I would have caught that....

DG.....I tried the 20 ton press route, but had trouble lining up the bushing as I tried to get it in to the inner hole on the control arm. One went in fine but the other just wouldn't line up. I ended up using the BFH on the one bushing, the front facing one, supported by a vise, went in fine. I fed the rod in through the open bushing hole then in to the second bushing, lined it up and again used the BFH to hammer it in. Again, supported by the vise, it went in perfect. I used a large impact socket on top of the bushing when hammering. When it was all finished, it was all I could do to turn the shaft by hand, even with a coating of grease on the shaft ends. I couldn't feel any play at all. Just have to go back an touch up my paint job....