78 issues
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
78 issues
I'm looking at buying a low mileage 78 Pace car. What are some o the first things to go wrong/wear out on a 78? Needing help to look for some gotha's
I appreciate any help/advice you care to offer.
I appreciate any help/advice you care to offer.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Yes. TH350. These can easily last the life of the car.
Same. Small block Chevrolet 350CID can last the life of the car.
Probably not a single "something", but all these cars can share common issues.
No disrespect, vdavenp802, but there is no guarantee any Pace Car you find is going to be perfect. If you're not familiar with C3s in general and Pace Cars specifically, you may want to consider taking someone with you who knows these cars when you look at potential purchases.
Have you read the 10 Rules?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
...Engines?...
...Is there something that 'always' breaks down...
No disrespect, vdavenp802, but there is no guarantee any Pace Car you find is going to be perfect. If you're not familiar with C3s in general and Pace Cars specifically, you may want to consider taking someone with you who knows these cars when you look at potential purchases.
Have you read the 10 Rules?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jul 3, 2018 at 01:03 PM.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 724
Likes: 112
From: Austin TX area
Like Mike said, it's a 40 year old car. Unless the PO's have diligently maintained it, you most likely will have stuff failing. You didn't mention what the mileage is, only low mileage. There are plus's and minus to a low mileage depending on how low. If just sitting for many years, seals will have dried and start leaking.
Don't be surprised is if the power steering cylinder is leaking. If the clock is working, it most likely is not original, or has been upgraded to quartz movement. When I got my 78 (not a pace) all the dash light were out, the circuit board behind the center console was fried. Learned real fast to be patient when taking apart the dash cluster. Anyway, you should expect to have problems on a 40 years car unless it was cared for well.
Good Luck, Bill
PS, if you purchase a C3, invest in the GM service manual and the AIM.
Don't be surprised is if the power steering cylinder is leaking. If the clock is working, it most likely is not original, or has been upgraded to quartz movement. When I got my 78 (not a pace) all the dash light were out, the circuit board behind the center console was fried. Learned real fast to be patient when taking apart the dash cluster. Anyway, you should expect to have problems on a 40 years car unless it was cared for well.
Good Luck, Bill
PS, if you purchase a C3, invest in the GM service manual and the AIM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
Check the rear wheel bearings as almost no one serviced them when they should because it's a PITA.
Replacing the rear wheel bearings is not easy or cheap in the grand scheme of things and a large number of C3's need them replaced.
Replacing the rear wheel bearings is not easy or cheap in the grand scheme of things and a large number of C3's need them replaced.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
one expensive gotcha…...is the the rear suspension, rear wheel bearings and axle stubs.....when its on jack stands .pull on the rear wheel at the 6 an12 and 3 AND 9 position and in and out....it should have no movement....also do this for the front.....the entire front drag link,tie rods and idler arm are also subject to wear . engines and trans can be very good...rust in the bird cage is a deal killer, good luck,
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 174
Likes: 17
From: Philadelphia, PA
one expensive gotcha…...is the the rear suspension, rear wheel bearings and axle stubs.....when its on jack stands .pull on the rear wheel at the 6 an12 and 3 AND 9 position and in and out....it should have no movement....also do this for the front.....the entire front drag link,tie rods and idler arm are also subject to wear . engines and trans can be very good...rust in the bird cage is a deal killer, good luck,
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
Some nuisance problems are common:
The window and lock mechanisms in the doors gum up and get VERY stiff--the only true solution is to completely disassemble, clean and lubricate the mechanisms replacing parts as needed. The window assist spring on the power windows frequently breaks--you'll know it's broken if the window zooms down and creeps up. If the windows operate smoothly and quickly and the power locks (if equipped) work and the key locks turn easily you can fairly assume that the mechanisms have been serviced.
The alarm arming switch that is attached to the driver door lock frequently fails causing the alarm to sound continuously. The alarm system was standard. The common "solution" is to disconnect the dedicated alarm horn. Unfortunately this means that the essentially eternal alarm relay in the center console is constantly energized thus draining the battery. This is a VERY common reason that the "ACC" (accessory) fuse is removed thus killing the interior courtesy lights, power locks, power antenna, clock, lighter and horn.
Problems in the ACC circuit that cause a short circuit or battery drain are common. Besides the above mentioned alarm problem, the electronic module that controls the courtesy light delay as well as aftermarket additions and poor attempts to fix problems are frequent culprits. An installed ACC fuse with everything it controls working with a lively starter AFTER an overnight sit is an excellent indicator of a well-maintained car.
The plastic laminated printed circuits for the cluster and gauge pack delaminate, short out and cause fuses to blow and gauges/indicator lamps to not work.
The simply (and poorly) designed body grounds corrode even on low mileage cars that have seen very little wet weather. These cause all manner of problems to include dim headlamps, bizarre blinker/hazard/brake light operation, poor/noisy HVAC blower performance, erratic gauge operation, etc., etc.
The choke on the carburetor is often sticky and/or improperly adjusted resulting in very difficult cold engine starts. Per the instructions and with a cold engine press the pedal (slowly) to the floor and release (slowly). Repeat. With foot OFF the gas, rank for no more than 30 seconds. If it fails to start repeat the steps. If everything is perfect the carb will be at high idle and you wait about 30 seconds before putting into gear and using the gas pedal.
Vacuum problems are common. Many are nothing more than old hoses that need to be replaced. These cars are FILLED with vacuum hoses and even if the look/test good their ends are often stretched. Entire replacement sets for every system are available. The headlight vacuum motors and relays, while long lasting, are not eternal. Unfortunately the available replacements are of poor quality.
The window and lock mechanisms in the doors gum up and get VERY stiff--the only true solution is to completely disassemble, clean and lubricate the mechanisms replacing parts as needed. The window assist spring on the power windows frequently breaks--you'll know it's broken if the window zooms down and creeps up. If the windows operate smoothly and quickly and the power locks (if equipped) work and the key locks turn easily you can fairly assume that the mechanisms have been serviced.
The alarm arming switch that is attached to the driver door lock frequently fails causing the alarm to sound continuously. The alarm system was standard. The common "solution" is to disconnect the dedicated alarm horn. Unfortunately this means that the essentially eternal alarm relay in the center console is constantly energized thus draining the battery. This is a VERY common reason that the "ACC" (accessory) fuse is removed thus killing the interior courtesy lights, power locks, power antenna, clock, lighter and horn.
Problems in the ACC circuit that cause a short circuit or battery drain are common. Besides the above mentioned alarm problem, the electronic module that controls the courtesy light delay as well as aftermarket additions and poor attempts to fix problems are frequent culprits. An installed ACC fuse with everything it controls working with a lively starter AFTER an overnight sit is an excellent indicator of a well-maintained car.
The plastic laminated printed circuits for the cluster and gauge pack delaminate, short out and cause fuses to blow and gauges/indicator lamps to not work.
The simply (and poorly) designed body grounds corrode even on low mileage cars that have seen very little wet weather. These cause all manner of problems to include dim headlamps, bizarre blinker/hazard/brake light operation, poor/noisy HVAC blower performance, erratic gauge operation, etc., etc.
The choke on the carburetor is often sticky and/or improperly adjusted resulting in very difficult cold engine starts. Per the instructions and with a cold engine press the pedal (slowly) to the floor and release (slowly). Repeat. With foot OFF the gas, rank for no more than 30 seconds. If it fails to start repeat the steps. If everything is perfect the carb will be at high idle and you wait about 30 seconds before putting into gear and using the gas pedal.
Vacuum problems are common. Many are nothing more than old hoses that need to be replaced. These cars are FILLED with vacuum hoses and even if the look/test good their ends are often stretched. Entire replacement sets for every system are available. The headlight vacuum motors and relays, while long lasting, are not eternal. Unfortunately the available replacements are of poor quality.
Last edited by SwampeastMike; Jul 4, 2018 at 06:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
Yes. TH350. These can easily last the life of the car.
Same. Small block Chevrolet 350CID can last the life of the car.
Probably not a single "something", but all these cars can share common issues.
No disrespect, vdavenp802, but there is no guarantee any Pace Car you find is going to be perfect. If you're not familiar with C3s in general and Pace Cars specifically, you may want to consider taking someone with you who knows these cars when you look at potential purchases.
Have you read the 10 Rules?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
Same. Small block Chevrolet 350CID can last the life of the car.
Probably not a single "something", but all these cars can share common issues.
No disrespect, vdavenp802, but there is no guarantee any Pace Car you find is going to be perfect. If you're not familiar with C3s in general and Pace Cars specifically, you may want to consider taking someone with you who knows these cars when you look at potential purchases.
Have you read the 10 Rules?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
This is exactly why I posted here to get 'some' idea of what to look for. Not looking fro perfect. Realizing the cars are 40 years old now, and if I'm looking at a 26K car and knowing at 30K the rear end goes(or trailing arms), would be of interest to me.
I appreciate your help, thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
http://hunt4cleanair.net/Articles/buyingright.pdf
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
Like Mike said, it's a 40 year old car. Unless the PO's have diligently maintained it, you most likely will have stuff failing. You didn't mention what the mileage is, only low mileage. There are plus's and minus to a low mileage depending on how low. If just sitting for many years, seals will have dried and start leaking.
Don't be surprised is if the power steering cylinder is leaking. If the clock is working, it most likely is not original, or has been upgraded to quartz movement. When I got my 78 (not a pace) all the dash light were out, the circuit board behind the center console was fried. Learned real fast to be patient when taking apart the dash cluster. Anyway, you should expect to have problems on a 40 years car unless it was cared for well.
Good Luck, Bill
PS, if you purchase a C3, invest in the GM service manual and the AIM.
Don't be surprised is if the power steering cylinder is leaking. If the clock is working, it most likely is not original, or has been upgraded to quartz movement. When I got my 78 (not a pace) all the dash light were out, the circuit board behind the center console was fried. Learned real fast to be patient when taking apart the dash cluster. Anyway, you should expect to have problems on a 40 years car unless it was cared for well.
Good Luck, Bill
PS, if you purchase a C3, invest in the GM service manual and the AIM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
Some nuisance problems are common:
The window and lock mechanisms in the doors gum up and get VERY stiff--the only true solution is to completely disassemble, clean and lubricate the mechanisms replacing parts as needed. The window assist spring on the power windows frequently breaks--you'll know it's broken if the window zooms down and creeps up. If the windows operate smoothly and quickly and the power locks (if equipped) work and the key locks turn easily you can fairly assume that the mechanisms have been serviced.
The alarm arming switch that is attached to the driver door lock frequently fails causing the alarm to sound continuously. The alarm system was standard. The common "solution" is to disconnect the dedicated alarm horn. Unfortunately this means that the essentially eternal alarm relay in the center console is constantly energized thus draining the battery. This is a VERY common reason that the "ACC" (accessory) fuse is removed thus killing the interior courtesy lights, power locks, power antenna, clock, lighter and horn.
Problems in the ACC circuit that cause a short circuit or battery drain are common. Besides the above mentioned alarm problem, the electronic module that controls the courtesy light delay as well as aftermarket additions and poor attempts to fix problems are frequent culprits. An installed ACC fuse with everything it controls working with a lively starter AFTER an overnight sit is an excellent indicator of a well-maintained car.
The plastic laminated printed circuits for the cluster and gauge pack delaminate, short out and cause fuses to blow and gauges/indicator lamps to not work.
The simply (and poorly) designed body grounds corrode even on low mileage cars that have seen very little wet weather. These cause all manner of problems to include dim headlamps, bizarre blinker/hazard/brake light operation, poor/noisy HVAC blower performance, erratic gauge operation, etc., etc.
The choke on the carburetor is often sticky and/or improperly adjusted resulting in very difficult cold engine starts. Per the instructions and with a cold engine press the pedal (slowly) to the floor and release (slowly). Repeat. With foot OFF the gas, rank for no more than 30 seconds. If it fails to start repeat the steps. If everything is perfect the carb will be at high idle and you wait about 30 seconds before putting into gear and using the gas pedal.
Vacuum problems are common. Many are nothing more than old hoses that need to be replaced. These cars are FILLED with vacuum hoses and even if the look/test good their ends are often stretched. Entire replacement sets for every system are available. The headlight vacuum motors and relays, while long lasting, are not eternal. Unfortunately the available replacements are of poor quality.
The window and lock mechanisms in the doors gum up and get VERY stiff--the only true solution is to completely disassemble, clean and lubricate the mechanisms replacing parts as needed. The window assist spring on the power windows frequently breaks--you'll know it's broken if the window zooms down and creeps up. If the windows operate smoothly and quickly and the power locks (if equipped) work and the key locks turn easily you can fairly assume that the mechanisms have been serviced.
The alarm arming switch that is attached to the driver door lock frequently fails causing the alarm to sound continuously. The alarm system was standard. The common "solution" is to disconnect the dedicated alarm horn. Unfortunately this means that the essentially eternal alarm relay in the center console is constantly energized thus draining the battery. This is a VERY common reason that the "ACC" (accessory) fuse is removed thus killing the interior courtesy lights, power locks, power antenna, clock, lighter and horn.
Problems in the ACC circuit that cause a short circuit or battery drain are common. Besides the above mentioned alarm problem, the electronic module that controls the courtesy light delay as well as aftermarket additions and poor attempts to fix problems are frequent culprits. An installed ACC fuse with everything it controls working with a lively starter AFTER an overnight sit is an excellent indicator of a well-maintained car.
The plastic laminated printed circuits for the cluster and gauge pack delaminate, short out and cause fuses to blow and gauges/indicator lamps to not work.
The simply (and poorly) designed body grounds corrode even on low mileage cars that have seen very little wet weather. These cause all manner of problems to include dim headlamps, bizarre blinker/hazard/brake light operation, poor/noisy HVAC blower performance, erratic gauge operation, etc., etc.
The choke on the carburetor is often sticky and/or improperly adjusted resulting in very difficult cold engine starts. Per the instructions and with a cold engine press the pedal (slowly) to the floor and release (slowly). Repeat. With foot OFF the gas, rank for no more than 30 seconds. If it fails to start repeat the steps. If everything is perfect the carb will be at high idle and you wait about 30 seconds before putting into gear and using the gas pedal.
Vacuum problems are common. Many are nothing more than old hoses that need to be replaced. These cars are FILLED with vacuum hoses and even if the look/test good their ends are often stretched. Entire replacement sets for every system are available. The headlight vacuum motors and relays, while long lasting, are not eternal. Unfortunately the available replacements are of poor quality.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 90
This article Buying Right - C3 came out in Corvette Magazine last year and describes most of problematic areas to check when buying a C3.
http://hunt4cleanair.net/Articles/buyingright.pdf
http://hunt4cleanair.net/Articles/buyingright.pdf