What’s Going On With This Paint Job?
#1
Life Member
Thread Starter
What’s Going On With This Paint Job?
This is the 3rd time I’ve painted this piece (upper center vent/wiper switch bezel ***’y)! I’ve completely stripped it twice, wet-sanded it to the point where it’s smoother than smooth. The following pics are taken after 3 light coats of Krylon satin black. Any suggestions or ideas?
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Mark Otnes (08-05-2018)
#2
Just another Corvette guy
Bummer.
Must be some traces of silicone left. That stuff is real hard to remove.
Next time give it a wipe with acetone first. Cheap and available at any parts/hardware store. That will clean anything off the surface before you spray it.
Must be some traces of silicone left. That stuff is real hard to remove.
Next time give it a wipe with acetone first. Cheap and available at any parts/hardware store. That will clean anything off the surface before you spray it.
Last edited by Greg; 08-04-2018 at 10:55 PM.
#3
Drifting
That's called fish eye caused by silicon or grease. You need to clean real well like they said acetone I would use primer also and use light coats and let dry between.
#5
Team Owner
Fish eyes... Now all you need is some 'glue' and you have tapioca!
You should strip all the paint off with a chemical stripper, then clean well. You might put it in your dishwasher. The detergent should get it really clean and it will be rinsed and dried thoroughly. I would then prime the bare metal with self-etching primer before shooting with satin black paint.
You should strip all the paint off with a chemical stripper, then clean well. You might put it in your dishwasher. The detergent should get it really clean and it will be rinsed and dried thoroughly. I would then prime the bare metal with self-etching primer before shooting with satin black paint.
#6
Nam Labrat
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Fish eyes... Now all you need is some 'glue' and you have tapioca!
You should strip all the paint off with a chemical stripper, then clean well. You might put it in your dishwasher. The detergent should get it really clean and it will be rinsed and dried thoroughly. I would then prime the bare metal with self-etching primer before shooting with satin black paint.
You should strip all the paint off with a chemical stripper, then clean well. You might put it in your dishwasher. The detergent should get it really clean and it will be rinsed and dried thoroughly. I would then prime the bare metal with self-etching primer before shooting with satin black paint.
#7
I've seen that happen before on things I've painted, too. It's definitely something left on the surface causing the lack of adhesion. I'd recommend shooting a coat and sanding again as required before applying the next coat. Pretty soon you should have it whipped into shape. Best of luck!
#8
Team Owner
Assuming the part is metal, then clean with acetone FIRST, then remove the paint, then clean with acetone again, THOROUGHLY, before repainting. If it's a plastic part, use alcohol, as acetone will eat up plastic.
It appears that you sanded the part FIRST, which ground the silicone into the part, and then it attacked the fresh paint from underneath.
It appears that you sanded the part FIRST, which ground the silicone into the part, and then it attacked the fresh paint from underneath.
#10
Dawn dish washing detergent works. Scrub and then get new water and repeat about three times. Yes you sanded the silicone into the surface. Been there done that. I haven't used acetone but lacquer thinner doesn't seem to remove silicone just kind of smears it around. Also a good wax and grease remover wipe down before painting is a good practice. Also there are some "plastic" paints that seems to resist silicone better than regular spray paint.
#11
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use some self etching primer
#14
Melting Slicks
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Come on guys, this is an EASY one. How about using a wax and grease remover? Isn't that what we all use before painting our cars? It's never failed me...either on the final prep step before painting a car OR before painting component parts as seen above. I can't believe no one has suggested this yet....
When painting pot metal parts, always apply the paint in light coats until you get your desired finish. Laying it on too heavy can give results similar to what you have.
When painting pot metal parts, always apply the paint in light coats until you get your desired finish. Laying it on too heavy can give results similar to what you have.
#15
Racer
I used aircraft paint stripper on mine... then sprayed rustoleum black satin paint... KRYLON IS GARBAGE. Also use very light coats initially and wait 10 min or so between coats. Sometimes I also use Duple-Color black trim paint....is very forgiving and tough. If I felt like going it over....I'd probably use that
Last edited by Jetglow; 08-10-2018 at 02:55 PM.
#16
Instructor
Scrub it with light steel wool, and liquid joy real well. Prime it let it dry, scuff it up again with real fine paper, then paint. The acetone wouldn't hurt.
#17
Pro
Fish eyes... Now all you need is some 'glue' and you have tapioca!
You should strip all the paint off with a chemical stripper, then clean well. You might put it in your dishwasher. The detergent should get it really clean and it will be rinsed and dried thoroughly. I would then prime the bare metal with self-etching primer before shooting with satin black paint.
You should strip all the paint off with a chemical stripper, then clean well. You might put it in your dishwasher. The detergent should get it really clean and it will be rinsed and dried thoroughly. I would then prime the bare metal with self-etching primer before shooting with satin black paint.
#18
Team Owner
Actually, she isn't upset when I put a relatively clean part in the dishwasher. But even I wouldn't put some greasy part in there! I have to eat off those dishes!!!
#19
Racer
Just a thought, I worked in a body shop for a few years, two products were NOT allowed in the door of the shop, wd40 and ARmoral, the paint shop guy watched us like a hawk, nothing with silcone also, Mike.
#20
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I worked in a furniture factory as a sprayer. Our list was a whole lot longer.