Time to put in new trailing arms?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
How much time to put in new trailing arms?
I thought I was done with my '68 after 3 years, but may have worn trailing arm bushings (separate thread going to try to be sure) after its first drive last week. I was really (REALLY) hoping to have it done for a show last weekend. Didn't happen thanks to the spooky handling. The next show is in 2 weeks. I will have exactly one and a half days to work on the car before that show. I'm toying with just saying "screw it" and dumping another $1500 into the car to put new trailing arms and strut rods in. If I get complete arms (from either Vansteel or Bairs, most likely), is it a job that can be done start-to-finish in a day and a half? It doesn't look too terrible. Unbolt brake caliper, spring, shocks, strut rods, trailing arm pivots. Put in the new ones. Align rear. Done. Or am I oversimplifying?
Last edited by E.Murray; 08-13-2018 at 03:04 PM.
#2
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Food for Thought: What is Plan B if you spend $1500 for trailing arms, do not get them installed in the one and a half days allotted, and miss the show?
#3
I thought I was done with my '68 after 3 years, but may have worn trailing arm bushings (separate thread going to try to be sure) after its first drive last week. I was really (REALLY) hoping to have it done for a show last weekend. Didn't happen thanks to the spooky handling. The next show is in 2 weeks. I will have exactly one and a half days to work on the car before that show. I'm toying with just saying "screw it" and dumping another $1500 into the car to put new trailing arms and strut rods in. If I get complete arms (from either Vansteel or Bairs, most likely), is it a job that can be done start-to-finish in a day and a half? It doesn't look too terrible. Unbolt brake caliper, spring, shocks, strut rods, trailing arm pivots. Put in the new ones. Align rear. Done. Or am I oversimplifying?
I just did trailing arms in my car. Can definitely be done in a day and a half. Really depends on your mechanical ability, available tools, and most importantly HOW RUSTED THE TRAILING ARM BOLT IS!
If it is relatively rust free, it may just tap out nice and easy. If that's the case, you could do this in 2 hours a side in my opinion. If it is rusted in there, you only have a couple options: 1. try LOTS of heat from a torch to see if you can unseize it (tried this, didn't work, and made me nervous using the torch right next to all that fiberglass and the fuel tank! 2. Sawzall the bolt/shims in half carefully (best option) since you will be replacing them with new parts anyway.
If you do have to sawzall the bolts out, trust me, get a REALLY nice sawzall blade. I went with the Diablo blade from Home depot. They are a little pricey (I think it was like $20) but it made the job way more manageable. And make sure it is one of the long sawzall blades, not the little 4" ones.
#4
Melting Slicks
I wonder if you might could get a feel of the condition of the bushings by jacking the rear, removing the tires, and disengaging the strut rods, half shafts and springs. After these are unhooked, try and swing the arms side to side to see how much play there is. Any looseness could be attributed to missing shims, bad TR bolt, and/or bad bushing.
#5
Tech Contributor
What condition are the arms in? Did you rebuild them 3 years ago? if they are rebuilt and just need bushings you can do that in a day with the correct tool and new rubber bushings, you will need to align the car afterwards.
If the arms are old then you might need to rebuild them, now whether that is something you can do or just buy new arms and install them is up to you and your budget.
If the arms were out in the recent past then the front bolt should come out but if not then you probably have to cut them out.
If the arms are old then you might need to rebuild them, now whether that is something you can do or just buy new arms and install them is up to you and your budget.
If the arms were out in the recent past then the front bolt should come out but if not then you probably have to cut them out.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
What condition are the arms in? Did you rebuild them 3 years ago? if they are rebuilt and just need bushings you can do that in a day with the correct tool and new rubber bushings, you will need to align the car afterwards.
If the arms are old then you might need to rebuild them, now whether that is something you can do or just buy new arms and install them is up to you and your budget.
If the arms were out in the recent past then the front bolt should come out but if not then you probably have to cut them out.
If the arms are old then you might need to rebuild them, now whether that is something you can do or just buy new arms and install them is up to you and your budget.
If the arms were out in the recent past then the front bolt should come out but if not then you probably have to cut them out.
Thanks all for the great replies. I've been doing oddball and fun cars for 20 years and this is easily the best forum I've experienced!
#7
Nam Labrat
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If you have problems you should still be able to remove both arms in 1.5 days. Watch a few youtube videos on the subject...that should help things go better. Buy a pack of quality saw blades/those bolts are hardened.
#8
E, I went with the Vansteel arms after coming to the same conclusion that my originals were in pretty bad shape. Your also right, the the new units are pricey but worth it. You should be okay with your experience and time frame. I guess we will see how you make out. Oh, dental floss through the long bolt hole when reinstalling made things a lot easier to pull the bolt.
RVZIO
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#9
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Yes it can be done, line up a helper. The alignment is time consuming and would be quicker with someone on the other side of the car
#11
Race Director
One trick I read here. A guy cut the outside of bolts. Drilled the inboard side of the bolts. Start small and keep going bigger til you drilled it gone. Needless to say you don't have to go very deep. Might have even cut outer side on outside of pocket. Then drilled inner side far enough that arm came in enough for cut off outer end to fit inside pocket to leave.
Last edited by derekderek; 08-14-2018 at 06:06 AM.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I've messed around a little with it (last weekend) and I don't think it will be too terrible. The car has no rust, so the pockets are great. And I was able to back the nuts off without trouble. Though even even with the nuts loose, I couldn't budge any of the shims. Should they be that tight? I think I'm going to go with the Vansteel units and see what we see. Thanks.
Last edited by E.Murray; 08-14-2018 at 11:24 AM.
#13
Melting Slicks
I've messed around a little with it (last weekend) and I don't think it will be too terrible. The car has no rust, so the pockets are great. And I was able to back the nuts off without trouble. Though even even with the nuts loose, I couldn't budge any of the shims. Should they be that tight? I think I'm going to go with the Vansteel units and see what we see. Thanks.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, crap. Vansteel doesn't have any rebuilt arms in stock. Neither do Bair's, Zip, or Duntov. I badly wanted to get them put in next week, but the only way to do that would be to buy brand new (at double the cost). Grrrr.
#15
Race Director
One trick I read here. A guy cut the outside of bolts. Drilled the inboard side of the bolts. Start small and keep going bigger til you drilled it gone. Needless to say you don't have to go very deep. Might have even cut outer side on outside of pocket. Then drilled inner side far enough that arm came in enough for cut off outer end to fit inside pocket to leave.