Unplaned FiberGlas work Advice welcome
#21
Race Director
'zwede'
Your way of doing it obviously has worked with no ill effects. So it has worked for you. No argument there. Your Corvette looks quite awesome. And if people feel better by laminating in the seams they can do just that. I choose not to do that due to I know it is not needed...because all of the cars In have done have never came back and caused me to regret using the VPA in the seams.
The only time I laminate up a seam area is IF the bonding strip or panel is damaged and needs to be added to so I can finish out the lamination with a coat of the VPA.
DUB
Your way of doing it obviously has worked with no ill effects. So it has worked for you. No argument there. Your Corvette looks quite awesome. And if people feel better by laminating in the seams they can do just that. I choose not to do that due to I know it is not needed...because all of the cars In have done have never came back and caused me to regret using the VPA in the seams.
The only time I laminate up a seam area is IF the bonding strip or panel is damaged and needs to be added to so I can finish out the lamination with a coat of the VPA.
DUB
#24
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sorry , no source in Europe. I thought I found them on Amazon UK ,but it is seller in Califonia and thats where its shipped from
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Primoz (11-10-2018)
#25
Race Director
How cold is it there??? Reason I am asking this is that I can apply it on a panel that is 50 degrees Fahrenheit and have no problems other than it takes a lot longer for it to harden..... which is often times NOT a bad thing.
You are aware that this stuff does have a shelf life so as long as it was really fresh...if you have to wait months to be able to work on it due to it is warmer.....I hope the VPA is still good after all you went though to get it.
Do not leave it where it can get really cold and freeze.
DUB
You are aware that this stuff does have a shelf life so as long as it was really fresh...if you have to wait months to be able to work on it due to it is warmer.....I hope the VPA is still good after all you went though to get it.
Do not leave it where it can get really cold and freeze.
DUB
#26
Race Director
Glad to see you got it and now you guys in Europe have a way to get it due to it seemed to be not available. It is a remarkable product that you all may have seen here on the forum.
DUB
DUB
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Roma (11-10-2018)
#28
Race Director
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 11-10-2018 at 09:57 AM.
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Primoz (11-10-2018)
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hello Dub, where is the shelflife noticed , can't find it ?
And till it is shipped to Germany you have paid around 120 USD , not the cheap stuff ;-)
Thanks
Frank
And till it is shipped to Germany you have paid around 120 USD , not the cheap stuff ;-)
Thanks
Frank
Last edited by Roma; 11-10-2018 at 11:31 AM.
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#31
Race Director
Frank,
Evercoat gives the guarantee that the product is good as long as it is WITHIN one year of when it was made. There is a date code stamped on the can that can tell you when it was made. You may need to contact EVERCOAT to have them tell you how to read that date code. I can not remember right off the top of my head. I have to try to remember teh date codes of the products I use. So it is hard to try to remember all of them. Some of the products I use have a one year shelf life while others can be longer than that or shorter.
DUB
Evercoat gives the guarantee that the product is good as long as it is WITHIN one year of when it was made. There is a date code stamped on the can that can tell you when it was made. You may need to contact EVERCOAT to have them tell you how to read that date code. I can not remember right off the top of my head. I have to try to remember teh date codes of the products I use. So it is hard to try to remember all of them. Some of the products I use have a one year shelf life while others can be longer than that or shorter.
DUB
#33
Race Director
This is GOOD...So you are basically good until August 2019.
Just make sure you keep the can in a good environment where it cannot get too hot or cold.
Also..when you go to mix this up it can take a while. I use a good paint stick and I mix it and make sure all of the solids on the bottom of the can are scraped up and mixed in. Then I take the paint stick and run it down the sides of the can so can scrape off any solids that are stuck to it. I stir it every day if I am doing work with it daily so I keep the viscosity of it consistent. And obviously I stir it if I do not use it for a while also.
DUB
DUB
Just make sure you keep the can in a good environment where it cannot get too hot or cold.
Also..when you go to mix this up it can take a while. I use a good paint stick and I mix it and make sure all of the solids on the bottom of the can are scraped up and mixed in. Then I take the paint stick and run it down the sides of the can so can scrape off any solids that are stuck to it. I stir it every day if I am doing work with it daily so I keep the viscosity of it consistent. And obviously I stir it if I do not use it for a while also.
DUB
DUB
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Primoz (11-11-2018)
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Dub
I think I will first make a test like mixing a small amount and wait how it reacts .
A statement of the shelf life in the net was : the problem is more the hardener that expires earlier than the coat and will cause issues
Cheers
Frank
I think I will first make a test like mixing a small amount and wait how it reacts .
A statement of the shelf life in the net was : the problem is more the hardener that expires earlier than the coat and will cause issues
Cheers
Frank
#35
Race Director
YES...the cream hardener can go bad and actually create small hard specks in it which makes it useless....and it can also separate to where when you go to knead it am get the cream hardened consistent...it can still have peroxide in it that is not mixing into it.
When you mix it ...you can stir it a little bit but then make sure you mash it out with force to make sure you are getting the air out of it....instead of whipping it like mashed potatoes to get it consistent. I do about 50 mashes in about a minute when I am mixing it up. Reason for this is that in hotter climates...this VPA will want to set up quickly so you may find you may need to back off on the hardener a little bit. When it is colder out...not so much. You will see when you test some out.
DUB
When you mix it ...you can stir it a little bit but then make sure you mash it out with force to make sure you are getting the air out of it....instead of whipping it like mashed potatoes to get it consistent. I do about 50 mashes in about a minute when I am mixing it up. Reason for this is that in hotter climates...this VPA will want to set up quickly so you may find you may need to back off on the hardener a little bit. When it is colder out...not so much. You will see when you test some out.
DUB
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
After reading a lot of threads and tips from Dub and ZIO I decided to repair the hole per following method :
Before
Rebuild the form with dough
Laminate a mold
Before
Rebuild the form with dough
Laminate a mold
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
After cleaning the mold and again waxing and filling some irrugelaries in the mold with dough I prepared the inside of the area by sanding and wiping with Aceton
attached the mold from outside and laminate from the inside
attached the mold from outside and laminate from the inside
Last edited by Roma; 08-25-2019 at 02:02 AM.
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20mercury (08-25-2019)
#39
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This pic shows the end , don't be afraid of seeing the last layer , this is a special layer to absorb excessive epoxi and after removing you have a rough surface for direct laminating again without extra grinding
First view this morning after removing the mold
First view this morning after removing the mold
Last edited by Roma; 08-25-2019 at 02:10 AM.