SnipeUout

I want a solid C3 to have as a project car and to daily drive it a bit. What years have better fibreglass and hold up better. As far as performance, as a former C6 owner, I have no hopes of making this car fast. I want the L88 and a 4 speed. I would like to rebuild the long block with with forged rods, clean up the heads with a 3 angle valve job/port matching and polishing. It retains the factory intake manifold but goes LT Header to high flow cats. Then drop in a TBI system. I want the motor to look factory but not have carb quirks.

Advice?

Easy Mike

"Better" fiberglass is a moot point. The earlier cars are Genite; later are SMC. Essentially it's the same fiberglass with different methods of application.
Good luck with the hunt.

SwampeastMike

There;s an excellent sticky post on what to look for when buying a C3. Body problems are easy to spot and very hard to hide. Rust problems (particularly in the "birdcage") require deeper examination.

I hadn't owned a carbureted car since the mid 80s and had forgotten how well they work. All mine (stock Quadrajet on a stock '79 L82) needed was choke cleaning/adjustment, tightening to the manifold, a couple cans of carb cleaner with lots of rags and brushing with a small stiff nylon brush and a couple tanks of gas treated with Seafoam. On the occasions when I drive it daily it start exactly as the manual says it should no matter the weather. When it sits for longer it usually starts on the second attempt (again per the manual instructions).

Eljay

First welcome to the world of C3. To get some real help we need a lot more info on what you want to do. What is your budget? You mention L88 but I think you mean L82 of the later C3s (L88 is the Uber C3 untouchable by most of us). Fiberglass type is the least of your worries. As far as fast that goes back to the budget, speed costs money how fast do you want to go? You mention cats but 74 and and back no cats, and depending on where you live you may not need them at all.

LS4 PILOT

Rescue Rogers

any C3 pre computer will be a good daily driver. No electrical problems that you need a special tool to try and figure out and try to see if its the computer or a sensor. If you add a holley sniper or equivilant you will have easier cold starts. Atleast if that computer craps out you can just have it warrantied or replaced. Everyting else is just general maintenance. They are very simple to work on and maintain. Check out the "10 things" sticky and buy the besstone you can. Mine had a great body and paint, everything else was completely bubba'd. I got my 68 vert for 19K and put in just over 2 grand ( carpet, wiper motors, radio, wiring, bulbs, missing screws/bolts, tires, alignment tools for the rear end, etc) and it was problem free. Since then anything I've done was an upgrade or just a general repair for an old part. How much that is is a lot higher. Big upgrades you may consider is engine an rebuild to take care of any leaks, (internal or external), 5 speed upgrade and rims and tires, maybe a suspension upgrade and then a performance exhaust system

SnipeUout

cv67

L82 isnt a bad start but a long ways from 13s, at least it has a 4bolt main and a decent crank. Get some good heads/modern cam youre headed in the right direction.

7T1vette

Base your purchase on what 'style' of C3 you like best: chrome bumper type '68-72 (rear bumper only on '73, but it has same styling on rear as '68-72 and is significantly less money); mid-70's with rounded tail end ('74-77); 'bubble-back" '78-80: or aerodynamic style '81-82). If you want big block engine power, you can get factory BB engine up through '74. For later years, you would do better on price to buy a car with damaghed (small block) engine which you could remove and replace with engine of your choice. BB engines will still fit in the C3 engine compartment envelope. Also, manual shift cars will have a welded-in front crossmember. Automatic cars have a bolted-in crossmember. The latter design makes it easier to disassemble/assemble engine/trans than the welded member. Not a big deal, but something to consider.

Also, the 1982 model already has a FI system on it with a two throttle-body manifold. If you can stay with a SB engine, you can upgrade power with that engine and keep the ECM system intact.

Good luck with your choice.

SteveG75

Don't expect to get 13's with a stock C-3. Car and Driver did 14.1 with a 1968 427 car with "Special Performance" 3.70 rear gears back in the day.

And don't forget that the youngest C3 is still 36 years old.

You are better off finding a good project car and doing an LS swap if you want a daily driveable C3.

ajrothm

THIS ^^^

I think the 80-82s would likely be the most comfortable C3 for a daily, do a LS swap and call it good. They also have the most usable space inside etc...

An early C3 chrome bumper sounds like a cool daily but...reality is, constantly worrying about theft, soccer moms and teenagers on phones rear ending you and door dinging it at Walmart etc...would be a nightmare. Not to mention leaking roofs/windows and all of the other C3 quirks. I love driving my 71', and I've done a LOT of stuff to make it a comfortable driver, I've drove it cross country twice in the last 3 years, and even I would get tired of driving it daily pretty quick..

Good luck on your quest...