When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sure looks like rust to me, what would concern me is what you cant see. For that kind of money better check it 200%.
May be unrealistic but for 45k Id expect the car to be restored/frame off etc, shouldnt need anything unless super minor.
Another question for the knowledgeable folks here. Someone has commented that they inspected the car and it has a “M22 with large 400 yoke tail shaft”. That would be something else if it were documented as factory original. The build sheet for this car seems to say that this car is m20 equipped, the standard-equipment wide ratio trans, not m21 or m22, is that correct?
Another question for the knowledgeable folks here. Someone has commented that they inspected the car and it has a “M22 with large 400 yoke tail shaft”. That would be something else if it were documented as factory original. The build sheet for this car seems to say that this car is m20 equipped, the standard-equipment wide ratio trans, not m21 or m22, is that correct?
FWIW - The larger TH400 style output yoke was used on ANY Muncie in '71.
It is a M20 3.70 rear which is a GREAT COMBO for around town. the 2.52 first gear ratio gives you about 12% deeper first gear with the same cruising RPM as with a M21 3.70.
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Sure looks like rust to me, what would concern me is what you cant see. For that kind of money better check it 200%.
May be unrealistic but for 45k Id expect the car to be restored/frame off etc, shouldnt need anything unless super minor.
45k for a frame off LT1 roadster... I wish I could get corvette restoration for 10-20 an hour... where do you get your work done?
My personal opinion is that the LT1 Corvettes are the most undervalued solid lifter 4 speed Muscle Car you can buy, go try to purchase a 70-72 Z28 (with the same engine) for anywhere close to 45k, I tried for close to a year before adding Corvettes to the mix and then searched for 3 months to find one with the original paint and the engine never apart. .
Hey all, other than the dated glass, is there a way to ID a convertible hardtop? Should it be on the order form above or was it a dealer installed item? Thanks Ike
Hey all, other than the dated glass, is there a way to ID a convertible hardtop? Should it be on the order form above or was it a dealer installed item? Thanks Ike
I’m not sure how you’d ID one, but since the factory hardtop is an RPO item, any car ordered with one would show it on the build sheet. Doesn’t look like the blue vert we’re looking at was ‘born with’ a h/t. Here’s an example of a build sheet for a ‘71 that was: http://www.1970corvetteregistry.org/...buildsheet.jpg
if you’re bidding on this beauty, good luck, it’d be nice to take this one home.
that lower control arm is just a welded reinforcement, my car has that also
Thanks, good to know
Originally Posted by stingr69
FWIW - The larger TH400 style output yoke was used on ANY Muncie in '71.
Thanks, glad it wasn’t the seller claiming m22, or you’d have to wonder what else might be BS
Originally Posted by firstgenaddict
It is a M20 3.70 rear which is a GREAT COMBO for around town. the 2.52 first gear ratio gives you about 12% deeper first gear with the same cruising RPM as with a M21 3.70.
Another question for the knowledgeable folks here. Someone has commented that they inspected the car and it has a “M22 with large 400 yoke tail shaft”. That would be something else if it were documented as factory original. The build sheet for this car seems to say that this car is m20 equipped, the standard-equipment wide ratio trans, not m21 or m22, is that correct?
45k for a frame off LT1 roadster... I wish I could get corvette restoration for 10-20 an hour... where do you get your work done?
I didnt take it that one can go get a c3 restored for 45k but rather buy a restored car for that or a good price,
For a while now one can buy turn key cheaper than restoring and far cheaper than hiring one restored.
I guess the turn keys do have time and miles on their restorations.
Agree but his CGZ engine stamp already ruled out this vehicle possibly being one of the 8 production ZR1 optioned LT-1s
In 71 if your engine isn't stamped CGY or CPW there is no possibility of having the M22 option.
Hey all I went to see the car today. There is rust by the lower pillar by the passengers side, I asked the owner to remove the kick panels and he did not want to. So there is there is an unknown as to the severity of it.
The top is a replacement without the label or the information on the clear plastic.
But the items that caught my eye are the following:
Something look off? Ghosts? HMMMM??? Thoughts??
The tranny ID:
The Diff ID:
Greatly appreciate all advise possible!!! Thanks Ike
The transmission production stamp looks questionable to me. Looks as if it has been welded and stamped again to change the date. Not typical rough cast surface finish.
There should be a VIN derivative stamp on the transmission case somewhere as well. Might be on top of the case where it is hard to see. It should match the VIN derivative on the left side of the engine pad. Same font, digits and spacing.
Sorry I can not comment on the differential as I do not know a good one from a bad one there.
Trans stamp: P0T22A P=Muncie-0=1970, T=Dec, 22nd, A=M20
Rear stamp: 2AB 8 1469W 2=shift, AB=3: rear ratio (AB was used 71-75 for 3:70) (Now I'm scratching my head at the date portion)
8 14 69= Aug 14th, '69
Lenny and all, my knowledge is very limited in these things, that's why I look to you all for assistance, The code is correct but look carefully at the "B" n the Diff ID. There appears to be the ghost of a "N" belowr it to my eyes and something may be below the "A" as well. Also the sequence does not follow the reference material I have for a 1971 but does follow a 1969 differential code.?????
The transmissions finish around the last three numbers look quite odd, as Stringr69 pointed out and possibly the "A" looks partially struck although its too deep to be.
Again my knowledge is limited and trying to figure out what we have here. Thanks all Ike
Lenny and all, my knowledge is very limited in these things, that's why I look to you all for assistance, The code is correct but look carefully at the "B" n the Diff ID. There appears to be the ghost of a "N" belowr it to my eyes and something may be below the "A" as well. Also the sequence does not follow the reference material I have for a 1971 but does follow a 1969 differential code.?????
The transmissions finish around the last three numbers look quite odd, as Stringr69 pointed out and possibly the "A" looks partially struck although its too deep to be.
Again my knowledge is limited and trying to figure out what we have here. Thanks all Ike
I agree with all of this... Ghost letters behind the assembly on the diff.
The trans needs more investigation as does the rear diff...
I would want to know the cast date codes of the 661 case, indicated by the clocks and patterns of dots on the pass side of the case.
Also the casting date of the rear diff.
Was the case damaged at muncie prior to build (area looks like it was heliarced) prior to build stamping on an uneven surface and that is the reason for the odd stamping. (if the case cast date is a month or so prior to Trans build date then there exists the possibility that it could be a factory repaired case)
Last edited by firstgenaddict; 11-11-2018 at 04:15 PM.
A seller that refuses to allow a potential buyer to see the front bird cage mounts raises a red flag, to me. He knows the significance of that request, he's been so advised on the auction site. Red flag.
A seller that refuses to allow a potential buyer to see the front bird cage mounts raises a red flag, to me. He knows the significance of that request, he's been so advised on the auction site. Red flag.
11-10-2018, 12:12 AM
