mitch.1972vette

That may work. I have my MSD mounted in the lower section and it may make sense to run the harness along that side, as you suggest. I could also make it work with Richard's headlight kit (I now have to install it). Here is a pic of the MSD:


This is it mounted:

I do believe the passenger side would be better. Thanks.

mitch.1972vette

This is a new diagram of the fuse block/circuit breakers for my wiring project. I have only just begun and don't want to get too far without a little direction or correction. Please feel free to help me with wire gauges that would make the wiring safe. All the same accessories on my previous diagram need to be added to this one. Thanks for all your help.
Dub, please feel free to grab this and mark it up for me (This is more detail - I'm still going to use my previous drawing but haven't changed any wire color yet - or wire gauge)


Updated diagram, please view below:

mitch.1972vette

This is the diagram:

theandies

Instead of using fuses for your headlamps you should use something like this:



Thats what I used (20 amp not 30) when I installed headlight relays.

DUB

"theandies"

If you carefully look at his wiring diagram he IS running circuit breaker for the power to the relays that actually will go make the headlights shine. . He is using fuses to protect the 12 volts that is going to the coil IN the relay just like GM does.

Mitch,
Call me when you can.

DUB

Richard454

Hey Mitch-

Nice drawing!

The only thing I see right off the bat- I'd go with a MUCH larger gauge wire from the starter to the battery.

Where are you mounting the Circuit breakers?

Did you get the headlight motors in yet?

Richard

theandies

He's posted so many revisions I must have missed that. I just worry about people that convert their headlights to relays then use fuses to protect them instead of circuit breakers. That would make for a bad night in a decreasing radius turn at speed.

DUB

I would have to agree. 6 gauge is too small in my opinion.

I agree...but even with circuit breakers if you have an electrical issue that causes the circuit breaker(s) to pop....you still would be with otu headlights in the turn at night.

No matter what we do when wiring up things...there is no way to plan for a worst case scenario and come of it unscathed. If a protection device fails (fusible link, circuit breaker or fuse) it did what it was supposed to do and that is to protect the wiring. Unless a person wires in back up redundant wires and switches for this possible scenario which may never happen. That is when having a safety kit in your car with road flares or reflective markers so those coming up onto your car at night will see it and not plow in the back of it.

​​​​​​​DUB

mitch.1972vette

Thanks, Richard. I plan to mount the panel on the passenger side upper fender well area. I will be deleting the vacuum lines to the front of the car, thanks to your headlight kit, and it should allow the needed room. I'm going to create my own box with a cover to facilitate the fuses and breakers. I will be installing your kit first in order to keep the new wire neat and tidy. I think I'm also going to use a front runner serpentine kit as well. I want to clean up the engine bay and move the A/C, alternator, and power steering up front to manage the header heat a little better. I could run the panel on the passenger side ~ but ~ that area may be needed for a power steering reservoir. I should probably purchase the serpentine kit (CVF Racing Wraptor Kit) before pulling the trigger on the placement of the panel and circuit breakers. Thanks for the advice on the wire gauge.

mitch.1972vette

Thanks, DUB, I will try to contact you tomorrow (Friday). I have worked some pretty long and crazy shifts. I look forward to speaking with you.

mitch.1972vette

This is another pic of my circuit board plans. Have a look and please note any errors or alterations. I do not have the fuse panel yet, the panel I have, has, 7 circuits. (4 ignition hot and 3 constant). I will either have to convert the entire box to ignition hot or replace it with a new box (all ignition hot). All comments are welcome. I'm very sorry for all the confusion with multiple drawings throughout this thread but it is a work in progress with the purpose of perfection. I will try to clean up some of the confusion when the project is complete. Thanks for your patience in advance.
You are right DUB, my headlights were going to be wired wrong according to this drawing. I will post another diagram for review.

DUB

Looking at this...if I am 'reading' it correctly. ALL of the relays you have shown will energize and CLOSE and make whatever it is powering up turn on when you turn the key on. Are you aware of that.

DUB

mitch.1972vette

DUB, you were right. Have a look at this drawing and let me know what you think. I also have a question about the fans, should they be wired to switch power or constant power? I have heard some electric fans running after the vehicle ignition had been turned off, but, is this the correct way to wire?

DUB

I personally would not have the fans running after the car shuts off due to the car does not have an electric water pump so the water is not circulating in the engine block and to the radiator....so...I feel it is pointless.

Now having the fans running AFTER the engine is shut off and the water no longer circulation will cool down the coolant in the radiator and also blow air onto the engine block aiding it in cooling down.

I cannot confirm how Richards headlight motors are wired. I would need to see the schematic for it before I can comment on it.

DUB