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Saying goodbye to the makeshift parts paint booth, aka big Amazon box. Feels like a milestone in the project.
Your 'paint booth' shows the signs of a good painter. Clearly seeing the spots of paint on the back wall used to test your paint to see how it will react before you apply it on the part. The 'runs' on your paint test area is what I call 'flow indicators'. Every painter has a 'flow indicator' from time to time.
It’s hard to believe this car drove as well as it did between the worn out right trailing arm bushing and the strut rods, right strut rod was worst by far.
The yellow arrows in the photo below is where I run welds along the side of where the metal that holds the square plates for your new strut rods fit into. The spot welds may hold or may not...but running a weld on all of these 8 vertical areas will guarantee that the plates can not pop off.
Spring cups installed, a ball peen hammer, 2” piece of round stock in the shop press works well. Press with the round side of the hammer first for taper, then flip the hammer and press with flat side of hammer. Use the round stock on bushing side and press against the stock, keeps it perfectly flat.
Last edited by 74_stingray; 02-10-2019 at 09:08 PM.
Spent the last two evenings disassembling the driveshaft and half shafts followed by cleaning and painting. I installed the Spicer 1350s and new flanges on the half shafts today and finished the days work reinstalling the half shafts into the car. Planning on installing the Spicer 1330s into the driveshaft Saturday morning. My freshly rebuilt trailing arms are on a Fedex truck headed back to North Georgia so the project is making headway.
A few things that I want to add in reference to the half shaft / driveshaft portion of the project:
In reference to installing the Spicer 1350s, I did find that it was necessary to file .002 off the snap rings for proper fit. Thanks Dub for boosting my confidence in this endeavor, I appreciate your support. I am completely confident in the install, yes they are tight, but not binding. There have been numerous threads related to installing the 1350s so thanks to everyone who has contributed valuable information in the past. I found the flange plate tool to be well worth the $31 spent.
As I began to work on the driveshaft this morning I observed that someone had peened the tube yoke 4 times per hole which obviously rolled metal into the snap ring groove. I spent a good deal of time carefully filing away the displaced material from the top of the grooves and making sure the surfaces were smooth and free of burrs. It was obvious on both the half shafts and driveshaft that the u joints had been there a very long time as there was considerable rust in the bores. I had read previously where GUSTO14 had advised a method of cleaning the bores with a brake cylinder hone, which I employed on both the half shafts and driveshaft. This was especially helpful on the driveshaft to help remove any rough spots from my filing out the staking. Thank you GUSTO14.
I hope this will be useful to someone down the road. I bet that brake cylinder hone is nearly as old as I am (55), I don’t remember it not being around the shop when I was a teenager beginning to work on old cars. Thanks Dad, wish you were here to enjoy this old car with me.
I received the rebuilt trailing arms from Fedex delivery today at approximately 4:15 pm eastern time, they have been reinstalled as of 6:00pm eastern!
Another step closer to completing the winter project.
I received an email coupon for $50 off of $500, plus free shipping this morning, so I ordered new Wilwood calipers for the rear, now it will be Wilwood on all four corners.
Eddy
In reference to the rear brakes and for historical purposes to this thread, I had previously thought the rear calipers to be in good condition and without leaks but upon further inspection this past weekend I discovered the right rear caliper to have been leaking. I disassembled the right rear caliper to determine the extent of parts needed to repair the rear calipers and found the pistons to be trashed and need replacing. I am unwilling to spend funds to restore the factory lip seal calipers and prefer instead to put that money toward Wilwood calipers. The Wilwoods will be mated to new rotors that are ready to go having been shimmed for run out. Additionally, I am aware of the process needed to properly bleed the Wilwoods and don't find that to be a deterrent.
02-10-2019, 05:26 PM
