Chemical stripper on fiberglass
12-19-2018, 10:51 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Chemical stripper on fiberglass
ok I have this 69 roadster of mine all ready to strip and repaint, it had one repaint in the factory burgundy, a long time ago . It is now painted in acrylic enamel. I am pulling my hair out trying to decide how to strip the paint down to the glass. I have read every thread on this forum about the preferred methods, I'm going to go with one of two methods, I'm going to rent an industrial sand blaster, with a tow behind 185 cfm compressor, and use walnut shells. Or I am going to chemical strip it. I have googled captain Lees till the cows come home and can't find a place to buy it, I'm in Canada by the way, can't find a fiberglass safe stripper up her , but that being said , the one guy I know up here that has been refinishing corvettes for over 30 years , just uses regular aircraft stripper from the auto parts store. He has been doing it this way for years and has had zero problems! I see all the people saying not to use this type of stripper on here, but do they really have any experience? I doubt it , I think people just think it is a bad idea, because fiberglass is not metal , and blah blah blah. If anyone has actually seen a problem from chemical stripping I would like to here about it, and see some pictures.
I used a walnut shell blaster on my heater core housing today and the media would barely touch the surface of the glass, so I think this might be a good way to go as well, but a lot of hassle , and I need dry weather, which is rare up here at this time of year.
I used a walnut shell blaster on my heater core housing today and the media would barely touch the surface of the glass, so I think this might be a good way to go as well, but a lot of hassle , and I need dry weather, which is rare up here at this time of year.
12-20-2018, 06:29 AM
#2
Team Owner
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I used a chemical stripper with no aftermath issues.
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Dave Cunningham (12-20-2018)
12-20-2018, 07:44 AM
#3
Race Director
We used 'aircraft stripper' on my 71. No problems at all on the factory panels (which are not gelcoated), but it did damage the gelcoat on the aftermarket hood. Just something to be aware of in case you have any aftermarket parts on it.
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Dave Cunningham (12-20-2018)
12-20-2018, 09:25 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses guys, we are supposed to be getting a break in the weather here in the next couple of days, if so I may try the walnut shells, I'm interested to see how they perform , and it's a hell of a lot faster than doing it by hand. If not I think I will go ahead with the chemical.
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Dave Cunningham (12-20-2018)
12-20-2018, 11:20 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
I used ZIP STRIP...chemical and it worked out excellently....15 years and the paint adhesion was fine.
When done stripping, neutralize with copious water and have the car epoxy primered and then SEALED.
No worries....other than your SKIN!.
Unkahal
When done stripping, neutralize with copious water and have the car epoxy primered and then SEALED.
No worries....other than your SKIN!.
Unkahal
12-20-2018, 04:32 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
I have stripped a C-2 and a C-3 car with fiberglass stripper. Both came out great. I used denatured alcohol to clean up any residue. I would not use a walnut blaster. You really need to have practice using it before you use it on fiberglass. I have seen some horror stories of stripping gone really bad with media stripping. I would contact DUB for his opinion. Jerry
12-20-2018, 05:06 PM
#9
Instructor
I have been stripping C1, 2 and 3 corvettes with many different brand of cemical stripper for over 40 years. Currently using Jasco from Home Depot. Always use a plastic scraper and clean up with laquer thinner. I have never tried media blasting. Just stick to what I know and have never had a problem. Jeff
Last edited by 71yellow454; 12-20-2018 at 05:07 PM.
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7t2vette (04-10-2019)
12-20-2018, 06:36 PM
#11
Race Director
I see all the people saying not to use this type of stripper on here, but do they really have any experience? I doubt it , I think people just think it is a bad idea, because fiberglass is not metal , and blah blah blah. If anyone has actually seen a problem from chemical stripping I would like to here about it, and see some pictures.
You are CORRECT. People have their own opinions on how it should be done but what is often times is funny is that they do not do it for a living and just have top cast fear into the equation on something they really do not have any real experience in dealing with.
You commented that the guy up there uses the AIRCRAFT grade paint stripper and has never had a problem, And I have to AGREE. I use the chemical stripper that 'they say' is not for fiberglass/SMC and I can say it does not damage ANYTHING ...IF you pay attention to what is going on and all that take is eyes watching what is going on. Also having common sense helps also.
Blasting it with walnut shells can help you out if you feel it is getting it to where you want it. Just make sure you keep an eye on areas where you can have air turbulence and the walnut shells seem to not to want to remove paint BUT they can possibly damage the areas in that pocket area where the vortex of air is allowing it to be concentrated and erode away your fiberglass.
Sorry, I have no photos of catastrophic damage occurring due to me improperly using chemical stripper...because I have not had a problem with it. Like I literally tell forum members who call me so I can talk them through process I use is that they would have to be a total idiot to damage the body with chemical stripper.
DUB
12-20-2018, 07:02 PM
#12
TheCorvetteBen
I have been stripping C1, 2 and 3 corvettes with many different brand of cemical stripper for over 40 years. Currently using Jasco from Home Depot. Always use a plastic scraper and clean up with laquer thinner. I have never tried media blasting. Just stick to what I know and have never had a problem. Jeff
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Dave Cunningham (12-20-2018)
12-20-2018, 08:10 PM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank so so much dub, I'm actually surprised at these responces considering the comments I have read on so many threads on the subject. By the looks of it the walnut shell idea will have to wait for my next project, as they have changed the weather forecast here in Victoria BC to nothing but rain for days , and I am ready to start stripping, I tried some more chemical stripper today and it works very well , I've been using a rasor blade to scrape it off , but I need to find some type of really good plastic scraper, I don't want to nick the fiberglass, this stripper I'm using basically takes off the top coat and a bit of the primer, I was just going to sand it from there to be safe. Thanks agin everyone for their input,
12-20-2018, 08:41 PM
#15
Race Director
I've been using a rasor blade to scrape it off , but I need to find some type of really good plastic scraper, I don't want to nick the fiberglass, this stripper I'm using basically takes off the top coat and a bit of the primer, I was just going to sand it from there to be safe.
Once you're down to factory primer the chemical stripper won't work, as I guess you've found. Safest way to get it off is with lacquer thinner and brown scotch-brite. You want to get the cheap bulk thinner from an auto paint store, pour it in a small bucket and dip the scotch-brite in it. You want to scuff it real wet, let the thinner do most of the work.
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Dave Cunningham (12-21-2018)
12-20-2018, 09:50 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
I used a product called Citri-Strip on most of mine. It worked very well. In some areas I used a heat gun and razor blade method, and in some areas I sanded (by hand, a power or air sander on fiberglass can get away from you fast)
Here is a link to the Citri-Strip: http://www.citristrip.com/product/citristrip-gel
Lowes and Home Depot carry it in the US but the cheapest place I found to get it was Walmart.
I was using it on the original lacquer paint. My car had never had a repaint so I don't know how effective it would be on yours. Buy the smallest amount and try it.
I painted my car two years ago, and no problems or issues after the fact, with the paint or clear.
When you get finished you'll have a clear understanding why a good paint job costs so much.
Here is a link to the Citri-Strip: http://www.citristrip.com/product/citristrip-gel
Lowes and Home Depot carry it in the US but the cheapest place I found to get it was Walmart.
I was using it on the original lacquer paint. My car had never had a repaint so I don't know how effective it would be on yours. Buy the smallest amount and try it.
I painted my car two years ago, and no problems or issues after the fact, with the paint or clear.
When you get finished you'll have a clear understanding why a good paint job costs so much.
12-20-2018, 10:06 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Agree and ditto here!
LarAgree, used a razor blade and a heat gun, worked great. You want the holder for a single edge razor blade that looks like a long screwdriver. Round the edges of your razor blade and burnish the edge before you begin. You moderately warm the surface and keep the heat gun moving a couple of inches ahead of the razor blade. Correct angle is key for the razor blade plus use a fresh blade often. Once you get a pattern going, you can scrape a panel pretty quick. Sand the rest with a file board, saving the edges for last.
Check the paint section here, Dub and Porchdog are great resources! Lars also has a paint paper which is very informative. Hope this helps.
Check the paint section here, Dub and Porchdog are great resources! Lars also has a paint paper which is very informative. Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; 12-20-2018 at 10:11 PM.
12-21-2018, 08:37 AM
#18
Drifting
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I just did my hard top a couple of years ago over the winter. I used a razor blade without
a heat gun it had 3 different colors on it . I had it completely striped in about an hour
no effort either. My painter won’t even paint a car that has been stripped with remover
he says the paint lift. I guess everyone has there own opinion. My green car was also
stripped with a razor blade completely. The previous owner did it.
a heat gun it had 3 different colors on it . I had it completely striped in about an hour
no effort either. My painter won’t even paint a car that has been stripped with remover
he says the paint lift. I guess everyone has there own opinion. My green car was also
stripped with a razor blade completely. The previous owner did it.
12-21-2018, 09:04 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
I just did my hard top a couple of years ago over the winter. I used a razor blade without
a heat gun it had 3 different colors on it . I had it completely striped in about an hour
no effort either. My painter won’t even paint a car that has been stripped with remover
he says the paint lift. I guess everyone has there own opinion. My green car was also
stripped with a razor blade completely. The previous owner did it.
a heat gun it had 3 different colors on it . I had it completely striped in about an hour
no effort either. My painter won’t even paint a car that has been stripped with remover
he says the paint lift. I guess everyone has there own opinion. My green car was also
stripped with a razor blade completely. The previous owner did it.
12-21-2018, 10:10 AM
#20
Race Director
Well there you go....some use it with no problems while others will not touch it. if it had chemical on it.
But I am sure that ONE THING that those of us who have used chemical stripper can agree on in 99.9999% of the time is that the chemical will remove stuff off the car DOWN TO the brown red-oxide primer OR black/dark gray primer on an SMC car.
SO...what is it with people who just can not grasp the fact that the chemical has NOT even touched any raw fiberglass due to it has not gotten down to it. I just do not get it. And obviously they have not even thought of it this either.
Clearly there will ALWAYS be those who will have an opinion on this and not change. And I am NOT here to sway anyone's opinion. But simply stating that using a chemical stripper WILL cause for paint issues is NOT correct....IF DONE CORRECTLY
Because what no one wants to admit is that when the body is in a raw fiberglass state...so many outside environmental contaminates can get onto and into it that can cause for a problem. So it is MUCH EASIER to point the finger at something else.
Fear of the unknown is what keeps the fear alive. Heck...I am one who will never wash a raw body down with DAWN to clean it...or use water to remove the chemical stripper.. I just will not do it ...but many people have with success. But I am not telling them that they are crazy for doing it. It is their car and if it works...great...if it fails...then it is on them. I prefer to use a good virgin solvent ( automotive grade lacquer thinner and acetone) to wipe the body down with. And if people feel that using a chemical stripper is just another potential area of where failure can begin...then they can think that way...but stating that IT WILL cause for problem is foolish. Because obviously they do not know how to use it with success....much like me not washing raw fiberglass in DAWN....but I am not telling people NOT to do it. just because I do not believe in it.
DUB
But I am sure that ONE THING that those of us who have used chemical stripper can agree on in 99.9999% of the time is that the chemical will remove stuff off the car DOWN TO the brown red-oxide primer OR black/dark gray primer on an SMC car.
SO...what is it with people who just can not grasp the fact that the chemical has NOT even touched any raw fiberglass due to it has not gotten down to it. I just do not get it. And obviously they have not even thought of it this either.
Clearly there will ALWAYS be those who will have an opinion on this and not change. And I am NOT here to sway anyone's opinion. But simply stating that using a chemical stripper WILL cause for paint issues is NOT correct....IF DONE CORRECTLY
Because what no one wants to admit is that when the body is in a raw fiberglass state...so many outside environmental contaminates can get onto and into it that can cause for a problem. So it is MUCH EASIER to point the finger at something else.
Fear of the unknown is what keeps the fear alive. Heck...I am one who will never wash a raw body down with DAWN to clean it...or use water to remove the chemical stripper.. I just will not do it ...but many people have with success. But I am not telling them that they are crazy for doing it. It is their car and if it works...great...if it fails...then it is on them. I prefer to use a good virgin solvent ( automotive grade lacquer thinner and acetone) to wipe the body down with. And if people feel that using a chemical stripper is just another potential area of where failure can begin...then they can think that way...but stating that IT WILL cause for problem is foolish. Because obviously they do not know how to use it with success....much like me not washing raw fiberglass in DAWN....but I am not telling people NOT to do it. just because I do not believe in it.
DUB
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