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The plates that the two bolts go to bolt the convertible top on is stripped out and I would like to weld nuts on the back side of the plates. The plates now are tapped to 7/16 -20. Can anyone tell me how the plates can be removed. I was thinking to drill out the spot welds and bend the box that holds the plates so I could get them out. Does anyone know a way to get these plates out of the box.
I had that problem on my 6t8. Forgot how it came out but remember it was a real PITA. I think a lot of frustration and swearing were involved. Welded up holes, drilled out and retapped, slid back in place with more effort and NO don't ask me to help, there are some things in life that doing once is more than enough. T
They come out from the top. IIRC I reached way down in there with long needle nose pliers, maybe angled. Took then to a muffler shop to have nuts welded on.
Thanks for the replies. I let you know how it goes.
One more thought. Drill out the threads to a clearance holes and put nuts behind nut plates.
My car was a T-Top car which was converted to a convertible and had no nut plates. So I just used bolts, washers and nuts in place of the hardware that would have been originally used on a convertible car. Worked perfectly.
We just fixed this exact same issue in our shop last month.... We placed the lower bolt in the nut so it would hold the plate steady, then we drilled the top bolt and put a heli-coil in. Took all of about 10 minutes to repair and worked great.
Drilling it larger and re-tapping it isn't an option just so you know. If you do this you won't have enough adjustment in the bolt.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 12-23-2018 at 09:26 AM.
I find TimeSert`s a lot easier to us than heli-coil`s, especially in thinner sections a plate .
they come in a verity of lengths. you can fit these with out removing the plates.
Bfit
I find TimeSert`s a lot easier to us than heli-coil`s, especially in thinner sections a plate .
they come in a verity of lengths. you can fit these with out removing the plates.
Bfit
But this isn't a thinner section of plate... it's pretty thick. You don't have to remove it to install the heli-coil either. You drill, tap and install...
As I stated above it's about a 10 minute job and works perfectly and leaves you with the original threads. If you purchase the correct heli-coil kit it'll come with the tap needed and all you'd have to do is get the correct drill and your fixed. You don't need to remove anything just tighten down the surviving bolt so that you have a playing field that won't move when you drill out the one stripped. Drill, tap, insert, done.
Honestly, there isn't much difference between a Heli-coil and a time sert... both require you to drill and tap and then install a new threaded insert... so I guess either would work just as well. We just have a supply in stock in the shop from over the years of Heli-coils, we keep the taps, the drill's and the install tool in a separate drawer. But what is nice is that the cost of the coil's are pretty expensive when you have to buy five to do one job so having left overs helps save the customer money as well.
IMHO,
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 12-23-2018 at 07:42 PM.
Willcox I agree the two,are similar in installation,
any plate under 12 mm ( 1/2’’) is thin when it come to the work I do.
but these would be made from bar about 1 1/4 x 3/8 ata guess.
A weld nut on the rear of the plate would be the best repair IMO.
However a comprise that saves removing the plate is satisfactory.
i personalll like the insert over the heli coil for measly of installation for those who do not use the coils regularly.
Either will do the job.
bfit
12-21-2018, 12:09 PM
Convertible bolt up plate stripped out
