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77 L82 leaking rain water into car

 
Old 01-14-2019, 07:55 PM
  #21  
DUB
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YES....you are correct These two CRL products ( CRL1716 and CRL7708) are what I use for water leak repairs.

I buy it directly from CR Laurence. They have a location right across the border in South Carolina ...but they also have other locations.
http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/conte.../carolina.html

Other locations that may be near you
http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/conte.../index_us.html

Information for the CRL 7708
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=12501&GroupID=1 9964&History=30587:19747:19756:19747:197 58:19951&ModelID=19964&pom=0

Information for the CRL 1716
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=12474&GroupID=1 9965&History=30587:19747:19756:19747:197 58:19951&ModelID=19965&pom=0

DUB

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Old 01-14-2019, 07:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Auggievf View Post
Not sure if it is the best place but I got mine at DK Hardware

Not sure if links are allowed but here: https://www.dkhardware.com/black-win...duct-2698.html
All that matters is that you got your hands on some and can use it and hopefully it performs like I have mentioned.

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Old 01-14-2019, 08:00 PM
  #23  
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7708 and 1716 seem like they perform the same function. What are the differences in applications you use them for?
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Old 01-14-2019, 09:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DUB View Post
It CAN leak a the top of the firewall where the plenum is riveted to the top of the birdcage and the sealer GM used is failing and cracking away.

Until you can identify the EXACT spot(s) it is leaking from... telling you how to fix those areas I know that can fail is a waste of my time. SO...if you can confirm where it is leaking at...and this also may include removing your kick plates....would be helpful.

Pillar post and door w/strips at the hinge area can cause for water to flood in if they are not correct.

I use tape to seal off areas and check it and when I remove the tape and it leaks ..it can help me better isolate the area where it is coming in at if I can not visibly see it drip.

DUB
This is/was my problem too. I got a waterproof cover to help. I think I sprayed a ton of black spray sealer all up in there from under the dash a few years, I believe it helped considerably. The T tops do a leak a little as well. I also used lots of clear silicone sealant at corners of windshield as some posts above have.

Last edited by Doug1; 01-14-2019 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:57 AM
  #25  
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Without reading all the replies, may I offer:
Check that the windshield has been installed using urethane vs butyl caulk strip that comes in a windshield install kit. If that butyl is not completely squished between cage and the windshield, it will allow water to run underneath glass and into cockpit via a route behind the dash and onto your floor. Generally when urethane is used, it is very soft and will allow the windshield to set into the seal and "seal". I chased that leak for a long time till I found the windshield was installed with the 3M black butyl rope. Cost me a LOT of aggrivation/time.
Jim

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Old 01-15-2019, 10:16 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Auggievf View Post
Not sure if it is the best place but I got mine at DK Hardware

Not sure if links are allowed but here: https://www.dkhardware.com/black-win...duct-2698.html
Thanks,
I already ordered it from Amazon. I should have waited until I read your message because the tubes on DK Hardware were $4 a tube less expensive. That's OK because that included shipping and it should be delivered this afternoon.
I bought:
4 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL7708 @ $13.05 ea.
4 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL1716 @ $21.80 ea.
1 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL181AG CRL Adhesive Pump @ $36.50 ea.

KNOT-HEAD

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Old 01-15-2019, 10:27 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DUB View Post
YES....you are correct These two CRL products ( CRL1716 and CRL7708) are what I use for water leak repairs.

I buy it directly from CR Laurence. They have a location right across the border in South Carolina ...but they also have other locations.
http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/conte.../carolina.html

Other locations that may be near you
http://www.crlaurence.com/apps/conte.../index_us.html

Information for the CRL 7708
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=12501&GroupID=1 9964&History=30587:19747:19756:19747:197 58:19951&ModelID=19964&pom=0

Information for the CRL 1716
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=12474&GroupID=1 9965&History=30587:19747:19756:19747:197 58:19951&ModelID=19965&pom=0

DUB
Thanks. I ordered the list below from Amazon. It was more expensive but the price includes shipping. The items should be delivered to my house this afternoon.

I bought:
4 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL7708 @ $13.05 ea.
4 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL1716 @ $21.80 ea.
1 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL181AG CRL Adhesive Pump @ $36.50 ea.

I have a concern about the two pictures below. It looks like the area filled in is a solid block across the top and down the side. It looks and feels like Bondo. I don't know if they filled that in to take the place of a fender support or not. I will have to chip it out little at a time to make sure I don't just collapse the space between the finder and the chases. Is there supposed to be a spacer in that area or not?

KNOT-HEAD





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Old 01-15-2019, 10:45 AM
  #28  
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Knowing that I know you do not know what it looks like in this area. when panels are all off. I have come across cars that look JUST LIKE this and I take my Dremel tool and my bit and I can grind it all out and have it look like what you have on the other side WITHOUT FEAR of the panel miraculously falling down It just cannot do that.

And for some odd reason .you car is the one in a million that actually does fall down....then you can always put adhesive right back in there. BUT...I SWEAR if your car were in my shop I would grind it out and not think twice about it.

The 1/8" router bit I put in my Dremel too will do just that. Grind out a slit an 1/8" wide.....SO....if it does collapse....which I DOUBT...you can fill it and have a small slit to fill But I really feel you do not need to be overly concerned about this because the other side is correct.

DUB

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Old 01-15-2019, 11:08 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jimvette999 View Post
Without reading all the replies, may I offer:
Check that the windshield has been installed using urethane vs butyl caulk strip that comes in a windshield install kit. If that butyl is not completely squished between cage and the windshield, it will allow water to run underneath glass and into cockpit via a route behind the dash and onto your floor. Generally when urethane is used, it is very soft and will allow the windshield to set into the seal and "seal". I chased that leak for a long time till I found the windshield was installed with the 3M black butyl rope. Cost me a LOT of aggrivation/time.
Jim
Thanks,
That was the first thing I looked at. I took the car to a automotive glass shop for them to inspect for leaks. The owner of the shop looked at the windshield and told me it was not leaking.

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Old 01-15-2019, 11:16 AM
  #30  
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Two new pictures.
It looks like there is a metal channel that runs from the bottom of the windshield, down the finder. Both sides had trash and dirt clogging the raceway. I removed what I could with a pocket knife, before taking these pictures.


Driver side windshield 1/15/19


Passenger side windshield 1/15/19
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:44 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DUB View Post
All that matters is that you got your hands on some and can use it and hopefully it performs like I have mentioned.

DUB
Thanks.
I ordered the stuff you recommended. I hope I have the right amount to get the job done. I'm really concerned about digging the Bondo out of the drivers side gap between the fender and the chases. I'm a "KNOT-HEAD" plus an old fat man that can't see worth a damn and shakes like a leaf. Hopefully I won't break off part of the fiberglass. I still have not found a suitable automotive body shop that is willing to do restoration work. They all want collision work so they can get paid by the insurance claim.
HUMMMMM! If I wrap the damn thing around a tree than ALL the body shops will want to work on it....LOL! My luck I will be paralyzed from the neck down for the rest of my life and will have to hear my oldest son brag about how the insurance paid for ALL the repairs on the car and now it is a SHEAR JOY to drive....LOL! OH-WELL, I'm taking on the challenges this car provides the same way you eat an elephant.....ONE BITE AT A TIME.

THANKS TO EVERYONE ON THE CORVETTE FORUM THAT HAS HELPED ME! Check out my "How to measure horse power" thread in the Tech group of threads. Those guys pulled me out of the "pit-of-despair" and put me on the "path-to-righteousness"! Now after of 2.5 years of the car mainly being in 5 different mechanic shops (most of the time), to actually logging on over 2500 miles in the last month. I was so fed up with so called mechanics charging me an arm and leg to do work that had to be re-done by the next shop, I was about to just s**t can the whole damn project. Now after spending way too much money on labor, I finally have a car I can be proud of. But ONLY because of the knowledgeable people on this site willing to tolerate a "KNOT-HEAD"....THANKS AGAIN!

KNOT-HEAD

I bought:
4 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL7708
4 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL1716
1 ea. C.R. Laurence CRL181AG CRL Adhesive Pump
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:49 AM
  #32  
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To me, it looks as if the rubber filler assemblies are missing items #1 of the assembly manual page. The smaller drawing showing side reveal mldg. suggests the inner lip of the filler fits under the glass, it doesn't it just sits on top. At one time there was a vendor on e-bay that sold both L&R sides as a set.


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Old 01-16-2019, 10:22 AM
  #33  
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Well... I hope he was correct but I don't see how he could even know without removing the trim inside and out and using light, smoke, or water to actually test it. You can't see anything where the sealing takes place, it's obscured by the glass itself and the cage. I wish you luck.
Jim
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Old 01-23-2019, 03:23 PM
  #34  
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off current subject...'

how is she running? does she have enough HP for your needs?

any good stories of hitting the pedal to the metal?

she burn enough rubber for you?

Paul:-)
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:45 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by pauldana View Post
off current subject...'

how is she running? does she have enough HP for your needs?

any good stories of hitting the pedal to the metal?

she burn enough rubber for you?

Paul:-)
WHAT-UP!
No wonder you have more money than God. You are VERY resourceful. The ball and chain gave me the skinny on the two of you's conversation yesterday. I was and still am impressed with your ingenuity and thoughtfulness. I can't thank you enough! I will send you a private message discussing the details. In answer to your question, I had finally had the opportunity to actually drive the car for a single round trip without the need for a tow truck...lol! I currently have 2700 miles logged on to the engine. Sadly I must inform you the car is currently in the shop and has been for ten consecutive days.

As you know, the engine has been pledged with questionable oil leak/consumption issues. I attached pictures of the replacement valve covers and PCV valve I was going to have installed. I was replacing approximately 1 qt of oil approximately every 200 miles. I contacted the warranty tech at Blueprint to discuss my concerns. He suggested, when the shop removed the existing valve covers, they pull one of the rocker arm studs then insert a "snake camera" into the head to see if there had been any noticeable oil residue. He said they apply a sealant on the threads of the stud. At times, there is not enough of the sealant applied to the threads on the stud and this will allow oil to penetrate the head. The shop owner was about to take a three week vacation (he must be filthy rich like you) and wanted to be present while work was done on the car. I agreed with him because of the past issues I have had with the quality workmanship in the past. SO!

They started on the Monday of last week. The valve covers have been replaced. The internal portion of the engine has been inspected. The engine has been given a good cleaning and know new leaks have been found. They also eliminated the oil consumption concern. They are now in the process of tracking down electrical issues and other "hopefully" minor issues. I have pictures I will attach at a later date showing the extent of the work required to track down poor electrical connections under the dash.
  1. The engine is running great.
  2. I am NEVER satisfied with the HP, especially after seeing the 1500 HP Vet at Asylum Motor Sports. I also discussed the HP results depicted on both, the Blueprint and Asylum DINO test results. The Blueprint tech, (like you) explained the reason for the two different readings and suggested some possible changes that could be made at a later date to increase HP if I elect to go that route. He also explained (like you), in his opinion the engine is the best match for this particular car as well as my driving needs. I have to agree with both of you.
  3. I haven't been brave enough to "hit the pedal to the metal" as of yet. Not fear of handling the car but potential damage that may occur during the process. Remember, I blew the engine in my first true love (57 Chevy Belair) while showing my *** drag racing and have never recovered from my despair and depression...lol! I have had a few uplifting confrontations with rich kids (may have been one of your spoiled rotten sons...lol) pulling up next to me at a traffic light, in the show room floor car their daddy bought for them, they took and had loud pipes installed on. For instance one guy (an older gentleman) pulled up next to me, rolled down his window, looked in my direction and revved up his stock high performance engine installed his brand new high dollar car. I was the essence of "Mister Cool". Emotionless, I simply, slightly looked in his direction, calmly reached down and fit the electric cutout switch and temporarily increased the rpm's to about 4k, turned, looked him directly in his "DEER IN THE HEADLIGHT EYES", then closed the cutouts. The dumbfounded expression on his face at that time was priceless! I put down my window on the passenger side of the car and explained to him "You have to get old....but you don't HAVE TO GROW UP"! In a Russian, broken English accent reply, he smiled showed me a large font long word tattoo on his MUSCULAR right forearm, saying, "Yes...This is why I came to this country!" Then we nodded to each other and both went on our separate way. Glad he didn't pull out sub machine gun (like on TV) and riddle my car with bullets...LOL! I have had at least three other similar incidents as this. I don't have to burn rubber, endanger the general public or even show my ***... (well just a little...lol!). Just unleashing the growl of "THE BEAST" has awakened the doubt of my potential adversary, causing to slowly drive off with their tails between their legs. I would like to leave that doubt with them!
  4. Have not intentionally smoked a single tire. I have had a couple of "eye opening" incidents while attempting to pull out onto a busy highway.... YUP! DAT-BITCH-AL-RUN!!!!!
I'll have more long drawn out stories later. Right now I have to make sure the oil leak, electrical and rain water leaks are resolved before I do much more to the car. I do have a cool emblem I had to ask your opinion on and get recommendations, first if it is appropriate for the car, then a recommendation where to install it.


Technically a 396 Turbo-Jet was a 396 big block engine. The 396 Turbo-Fire was the small block engine. I could not find any Turbo-Fire decals so I bought three of these. If you agree, I plan to remove the stock decal on both finders and replace them with these, then install the third one on the air breather cover. I know this will not be politically correct, but I think they look good and only Professionals such as your self will condemn me for the minor infraction. I'm not sure if the picture I attached is the exact emblem I purchased. I don't have the emblem in hand. I compared the flags on the decal to the original ones on the car and they are an exact match. The only discrepancy is "Turbo-Jet! As you know, your approval and advice is invaluable to me. don't beat me up too much. If you know of more authentic ones, let me know what and where I can find them and I will return these to Summit. Hope these will work. I LIKE UM!

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Old 01-30-2019, 01:49 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bmotojoe View Post
To me, it looks as if the rubber filler assemblies are missing items #1 of the assembly manual page. The smaller drawing showing side reveal mldg. suggests the inner lip of the filler fits under the glass, it doesn't it just sits on top. At one time there was a vendor on e-bay that sold both L&R sides as a set.


Thanks,
This sketch should be very helpful. I have the car at the shop now. I will forward them the information you have supplied.

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Old 01-30-2019, 01:56 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jimvette999 View Post
Well... I hope he was correct but I don't see how he could even know without removing the trim inside and out and using light, smoke, or water to actually test it. You can't see anything where the sealing takes place, it's obscured by the glass itself and the cage. I wish you luck.
Jim
Thanks,
The car is in the shop now with the dash removed so the wiring can be traced out and repaired. I asked them to look for any signs of where the water maybe coming from while they have a clear view of the inside fender well where it attaches to the chases and windshield. The popular opinion is have someone stick their head under the steering column while someone else sprays water on the car. If we can find the culprit, I have the sealing compounds the members here recommended on hand and I can seal the entry point to the bird cage. The key as of now is to find the source of the leak.

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Old 01-31-2019, 09:36 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by DUB View Post
All that matters is that you got your hands on some and can use it and hopefully it performs like I have mentioned.

DUB
Not to hijack this thread but I have a leak apparently from the T-Top across the top of the windshield DUB as your previous post describes. It does drip under front windshield trim after a certain time.
Am very open to any suggestions to fix this.
Thanks much...big much
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:02 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by platinummaker View Post
Not to hijack this thread but I have a leak apparently from the T-Top across the top of the windshield DUB as your previous post describes. It does drip under front windshield trim after a certain time.
Am very open to any suggestions to fix this.
Thanks much...big much
I will be more than GLAD to help you...BUT....Start your own thread and PM me a link to it and I will reply due to needing more information....and will tell you what you need to do to isolate EXACTLY where the water is coming in at. SO I also am not hijacking this thread out of respect.

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Old 02-06-2019, 01:44 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by platinummaker View Post
Not to hijack this thread but I have a leak apparently from the T-Top across the top of the windshield DUB as your previous post describes. It does drip under front windshield trim after a certain time.
Am very open to any suggestions to fix this.
Thanks much...big much
Thanks,
I have a lot of suggestions on what to look for but so far I haven't found the source of the leaks. The kind professionals on this site will give you all their knowledge base. With that, it just seems like the bottom line is to have someone under the dash looking for leaks while someone else sprays water.

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