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Hi,
I know it sounds weird, but this is what I discovered on a recently bought Vette that I want to pass thru the Belgian technical inspection.
I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the parking brakes of a newly bought 71 Vette.
Here in Belgium they test the parki
ng brake and there is no merci. if they dont work you're refused to immatriculate (getting a tag on your car and hit the road).
SO;;; that said....
I don't have these two access holes on the rotor... I can see the 'start' of a hole, but I would need to drill them.
Not sure about drilling, but could it be that the rotor was indexed incorrectly when brake work was done? On my 68 the PO put the rear rotors on the front so I had to move them to the rear.
the rotor was removed and not correctly reinstalled, resulting in the holes being covered up. You can see the holes in the rotor a little above the 9 O'clock position and another a little below the 3 O'clock position.
The rotors were removed and not indexed back on correctly.
Pull the rotor off and you will see that the axle is already drilled. Line up the holes on the rotor and the axle and you will have access to adjust the Parking brake.
The rotors were removed and not indexed back on correctly.
Pull the rotor off and you will see that the axle is already drilled. Line up the holes on the rotor and the axle and you will have access to adjust the Parking brake.
yes index your rotor correctly, then adjust..
or...
remove the rear rotor, then you can adjust the brake shoes out as far as you can manually to the point you can barely get the rotor back on. that should be close enough and then you need to adjust the emergency brake cable tensioner under the car.
but, sometimes the brake shoes and hardware inside the rotor may have rusted to dust. at that point you will need a rebuild kit. available from most vendors.
Leo, you know what you need to do now , but alas, that means you'll have to release the calliper to get the rotor off. Be sure to put something (block of wood for example) in between the pads as you lift the calliper off the rotor, to keep the pads apart and the pistons compressed. As said, check that all parts of the parking brake mechanism are free and move as they should.
You should slacken off the adjusters at the wheel, then adjust the cable adjuster in the centre of the car first, to appoint where it has no slack, but is not pulling on the brake mechanism. Then, re-adjust the wheels. The book says to tighten fully, then release abut 8 clicks I think.
Good luck with that Belgium test - I feel your pain, we have a similar test here in France It's not uncommon for people to tighten up the central adjuster just before the test. That will make the parking brake "drag" a bit, but it will better pass the test! Be sure to release it ASAP after the test though!
I just removed my rear rotors that were indexed correctly but the adjuster was rusted solid. Rotors may be rusted on so you may want to soak overnight with penetrating oil/ rust remover around the center hub and the studs. Since you can't retract the parking brake shoes you may have to fight getting them rotor past them.. Good luck
01-17-2019, 10:42 AM
C3 '71 Parking Brake - no adjustment holes
The rotors were removed and not indexed back on correctly.
, but alas, that means you'll have to release the calliper to get the rotor off. Be sure to put something (block of wood for example) in between the pads as you lift the calliper off the rotor, to keep the pads apart and the pistons compressed. As said, check that all parts of the parking brake mechanism are free and move as they should. 
It's not uncommon for people to tighten up the central adjuster just before the test. That will make the parking brake "drag" a bit, but it will better pass the test! Be sure to release it ASAP after the test though!
