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Blowing the ten amp fuse

 
Old 02-08-2019, 04:09 PM
  #21  
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It tricked me. When I started it to back out of the garage it blew again. so trying to think about next step

last week I took the drivers side door loose to replace the hinge bushings and painted the hinges since they were a little rusty. maybe I damaged the power window wires. That's my next thing to check I think.. But Im usually wrong so heres what Ive done so far.

Removed the passenger door and checked the broken wire repair I did a year or two ago. Removed the warning buzzers and taped the connectors,

The factory mechanical fuel pump was removed and an electrical one is mounted to the frame under the passenger seat belt mount and its power wire is connected to the connector beside the Gauges fuse so I unplugged it.

Removed the 30 amp power window circuit breaker from the fuse block.

And I watched the fuse as I turned the key forward to accessory only, and its wire immediately burnt in half, does not black the glass. glass is still very clear.

I replaced the fuse each step so have burnt four fuses at this point.

removed the headlight up warning lamp buttons from the headlight hinges and the fuse did not blow .

put back in the 30 amp window circuit breaker , reconnected the fuel pump. the windows worked the fuel pump was clicking. turned the key off and back on three times each time working the windows and hearing the fuel pump. I watched the gas gauge moved up to full everything works great.

so then I put electrical grease in the headlight button sockets to keep out moisture and taped them up. This just came to me as Im writing this,,, Is electrical grease conductive enough to short if I got too much in there? could that blow the fuse? maybe I need to clean the electrical grease out of the sockets.

Because when I started it the fuse blew again.
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:33 PM
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Was it blowing the 10 amp fuse before you took off the door panel or hinges off?
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Old 02-08-2019, 06:51 PM
  #23  
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No, it hasn't blown a fuse since last year when the buzzer behind the speedometer was blowing the same fuse. I removed it and taped the connector and its been fine since. Im back home so going out to the garage now.
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:02 PM
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:07 PM
  #25  
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I cleaned out the electrical grease in the sockets and its not blowing anymore. three starts and a short test drive and is ok so far. Sometimes I cause more work than I fix. Thank you all so much for helping me. My name is Bryan and my handle 75MM stands for 75 Mille Miglia Red
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:17 PM
  #26  
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It stopped blowing the fuse after I cleaned out the bulb grease in the lights up button warning socket. the gauges and windows usually wouldn't be such a big deal but with the fuel pump on the same circuit I have no fuel if it blows. would there be a better circuit to put the elec fuel pump on? do fuel pumps need to be on a ten amp fuse?
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:38 PM
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Type, name of fuel pump, wire gage might help information wise. It is a good idea to put the pump on a decicated circuit. Make sure too that your source of power for the pump is on a switched power source.

Last edited by Cooter Tech; 02-08-2019 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:09 PM
  #28  
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I agree. I don't see anywhere free on the fuse block. Would it be acceptable to run a fused wire directly to the battery? that's how I got it back in the garage when the gauge fuse blew and it died in the driveway the other day. I used an inline 10Amp fused wire directly from the pump to the battery.
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:31 PM
  #29  
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NO, the pump will be powered on all the time. First thing you should do is find out the proper fuse size for the pump. I like to use relays to operate fuel pum and fans.
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:08 AM
  #30  
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ok thx, Ill check the pump and see.
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:46 PM
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Bryan,

Look at these fuse taps
https://www.ebay.com/p/Wirthco-30200...7986782&chn=ps

https://www.delcity.net/store/AGC-Fu...SABEgI5dPD_BwE


You use them to pull power off of your OUTER terminal for the fuse....because this is where the power is coming into the fuse panel. One side of the fuse panel has the outer fuse terminal HOT all the time...while the other side of your fuse panel ...the fuse terminal on the outer edge is controlled by the key being on.

Then you can wire it as you see fit and add a fuse in-line to a relay or how ever you plan on wiring up the pump.

AS mentioned...it is a WISE idea to know for fact what GAUGE wire the company who makes the fuel pump wants running to it.....because.....motors DO get effected by the slightest voltage drop IF you use too small of a gauge wire.. SO...going bigger is better than smaller. Once again...check and find out.


IF you DO use a fuse tap like I have shown you....when the car has been running for a short while ....half and hour or hour or so. Reach down and grab the wire you have attached to the fuse tap and feel it and see if it is getting hot. Reason being....if the facotry fuse terminal is dirty...even though the pump is working...it might be fighting to get power due to the terminal in the fuse panel is dirty and not allowing all of the current to flow due to resistance and the the wire or terminal you have plugged to the fuse tap can get hot.

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Old 02-10-2019, 11:40 AM
  #32  
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If you do it that way, make sure you select a circuit properly sized to provide enough current to the pump. Donít use a 5 or 10 amp circuit. Make sure the circuit is switched off with the ignition. Make sure the pump is properly protected with the correct size fuse. If you are not comfortable doing this, pay a skilled mechanic to wire it for you. Much better than burning up your car and possibly your garage/house, Electrical fires are very dangerous and these cars can be destroyed very quickly .
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:54 PM
  #33  
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Thanks DUB, those look way better to use than just pinching the wire in there. And for the advise about dirty connectors. Also I was wrong again about my short. I thought it corrected after removing the headlight up buttons and cleaning out the sockets but after driving about a hundred miles I blew the same fuse again when I started it the next morning.
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:55 PM
  #34  
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Im not sure how those emojies got put in the spec list.
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:35 PM
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Ive found a few wiring diagrams but none of them show the wires coming out of the fuse block. or show what wires are connected to each fuse. I called Wiilcox for a Dealers Service manuel or something showing that but they didn't think that would be in there. So Im still looking for one. . Im removing the dash today to check the RFI caps you suggested. and then get out the ohm meter and look for a zero reading as you instructed.
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:58 PM
  #36  
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Its a CarQuest E219660 Universal fuel pump. I couldn't find a suggested fuse or wire gauge but the wires on the pump matched up to 16 gauge wire and the specs said it draws 3 amps.
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Old 02-10-2019, 04:43 PM
  #37  
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Now you know it is not the fuel pump. Pull the 30 amp relay with the ignition or car runnimg. Is the relay warm, do you hear a clicking noise when you remove it? What other items don’t work when you blow the 10 amp fuse? Look for piched wires in door panels that you have removed, kick panels or other areas you have been working on. It is easy to put the wrong screw in and cause electrical problems you are having. Can you use an amp meter to check the current draw on the 10 amp fuse?
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Old 02-10-2019, 06:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Cooter Tech View Post
If you do it that way, make sure you select a circuit properly sized to provide enough current to the pump. Don’t use a 5 or 10 amp circuit. Make sure the circuit is switched off with the ignition. Make sure the pump is properly protected with the correct size fuse. If you are not comfortable doing this, pay a skilled mechanic to wire it for you. Much better than burning up your car and possibly your garage/house, Electrical fires are very dangerous and these cars can be destroyed very quickly .
I think you are missing the point or misunderstood what I wrote in how to install the of the fuse tap. He would be installing it on the fuse terminal that is having power come from the ignition switch....so...it being a 5 or 10 amp circuit does not apply. Because the wires that come off of an ignition switch are usually a 10 or 12 gauge wore. that go to the fuse panel buss bars to feed pwoer to the fuse terminals.

And if he used this wire coming off the fuse tap...it can be used as the control for a relay to energize the coil in the relay to make it work.....which you are aware that the amount of current it takes to pull a coil in a relay is so minute ...it would not effect anything.

AND YES...I DO understand your concern when helping people who are learning about wiring....

Originally Posted by 75MM View Post
Ive found a few wiring diagrams but none of them show the wires coming out of the fuse block. or show what wires are connected to each fuse. I called Wiilcox for a Dealers Service manuel or something showing that but they didn't think that would be in there. So Im still looking for one. . Im removing the dash today to check the RFI caps you suggested. and then get out the ohm meter and look for a zero reading as you instructed.
SO I am still guessing you are needing for the GAUGE fuse to stop popping.....correct???

Do you have an assembly manual??? If so...you have a wirng diagram in it and it shows oyu all the wiring you need to know about.

Post good photo of the wiring diagram you have.

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Old 02-10-2019, 07:55 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 75MM View Post
Im not sure how those emojies got put in the spec list.
Certain combinations of characters get interpreted as emojies...for example : ) (I put a space between to keep from happening) becomes There are lots of them.

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Old 02-10-2019, 10:39 PM
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