75MM

That's half of the diagram that papawana sent me.

75MM

75MM

Thanks Cooter, Do you mean the 30amp window circuit breaker on the fuse block, or is there another 30 amp relay to check? when the gauges fuse blow I loose the fuel, oil pressure and temperature gauges,, and window power, ,,,and the tach stays stuck on 2000 rpm.


The last thing I worked on was the door so I just took it off and found the window power wires have been broken and twisted together. Ill post a picture after I took the electrical tape off. could this cause trouble?

75MM

I get a .75 amp draw when I bridge the 10 amp socket with the key on accessory, also when I touch the 10 amps terminals with the amp meter I hear a relay or something click, And,,,with the key off I tested the draw on the battery between the removed negative cable clamp and the neg battery terminal and read a 1.2 amp draw.

75MM

I just realized I tested the battery with the door open. so scratch that.

Cooter Tech

If that is an example of previous owners work you sadly will have other wiring time bombs. Yes that type of repairin and location is a problem now or in the future. I would keep battery disconnected when in the garage. Neighbor did a lot of damage to his house when his C-3 caught on fire. Good luck sorting it out. Keep a fire extinguisher close by too.

DUB

Sent you another PM

I can understand you confusion now due to that design of wiring diagram is not all that. It makes it a lot more time consuming...or at least for me...who uses a different type of wiring diagram that is much better and makes following the circuits and their colors much easier.

DUB

75MM

Yes I agree Cooter Tech. I left the battery disconnected. And cut out and reconnected them with heat shrink connectors. and went through the console and gauge cluster. Didn't see anything else yet and so far its holding. Thanks again for the help and warnings.

Cooter Tech

Hope you get it fixed. I’m paranoid about fire. I let mine cool off, putit in garageand disconnect battery.

75MM

To run power to the electric fuel pump through a four pin relay,,, would it be ok to get 12 volts from where the battery cable is hooked up to the starter? That would be really convenient.

Cooter Tech

Yes, make sure that the coil side of relay is switched. Don’t forget to install fuses to protect t circuits. For ease of access I mounted mine on the firewall. Install it where ever it’s easiest for you though. I can send you a few pictures if you want.

75MM

Yes, thanks. Pictures would be Awesome,.. I got some inline fuses and 12 gauge wire, If the pump draws 3 amps, would it be correct to use 5Amp fuses,
one for each wire except for the ground?

DUB

5 amp fuse would be okay...or even a 10 amp fuse. The fuse is not there to protect the fuel pump. Fuses are in place to protect the WIRE from burning up.

Like I mentioned...depending on what type of relay you have chosen...I can say that IF it is not the type of relay that has the silicone seals on the wire connector end to keep moisture and dirt out of that connection...then THAT type of relay needs to be either installed in a box ( if out in the engine compartment) or mounted inside the car to keep it free from getting wet.

The ONLY reason I say this is that you can do it as you see fit...but taking the changes GM has done over the years where they have switched to ALL relays and connectors that are out in the environment...they are protected with silicone seals....OR in a protected fuse box to keep them clean....and I can say ...it DOES make a difference when I work on the newer Corvettes ...versus the older ones that did not have that technology on them yet.

DUB

Cooter Tech

Pm sent

75MM

This is what they got at our car quest. not sure how theyre sealed. Ill check tomorrow.