Rescue Rogers

A heads up for everone on lifting these cars with no front end weight. I have the Jack's positioned so the raise from the rear up rotating to the front

I have all the front suspension out, engine and transmission and all the steering components and the hood removed. I have a full tank of gas and the entire rear end still in the car but only rear rims no tires.

my front end is so light that the balance point seems to be at the back of the door. I tried raising the car and the nose came up but the rear didnt. I stopped raising it after a few inches and I could use one hand to level the car. So I lowered it and checked the blocks but they didnt shift.


The canter levered design was balancing on the lower base plate at the very rear and was pivoting off that point.I stacked my front calipers inside the nose and put some moving blankets on the nose to keep it level until the top of the lift was over the base. That small amount of weight was enough to maintain level.

So be aware of how the quick Jack's design can distribute the weight when raising and lowering your vehicle and be conscious of how light the nose will be when lowering it. I'll be keeping my hand on the nose to make sure it doesnt rise up when lowering it.

I'll try and get a video tonight

ddawson

When I had the motor and suspension out I reversed the lifts." hoses at the rear" It was much more stable that way

Rescue Rogers

thats how mine is currently.

jpatrick62

Wow, thanks for bringing that up - I'd like to see that video.

Rescue Rogers

I didnt get a chance tonight. I'll try to get to it tomorrow. its pretty amazing

Jstan2014

Jim71Vette

Wow..... is this timely. I'm almost ready to lift my 71 using a 5000SLX. I'm the same as RR but tank is empty. Nothing up front and no hood.
Only difference is car is on stands and already 14" off floor. Do you think I will have the same problem?
Where are you placing the blocks on the QJ frames and where are you trying to hit the frame? Usual 4 corners?

Thanks

Jim

Rescue Rogers

If it's up on the air you'll be fine. I hit the normal spots just inside the wheel wells. It's when you try to leave the floor and the weight is behind the rear pivot on the bottom frame. I'll definitely get some pics and YouTube it tonight. If you have your hands on it while its raising or lowering you can stabilize it. with out the fuel you might not notice it.

Duke94

Good info to know, thanks. I was going to order one of these from Costco a couple days ago, but after reading the reviews I decided to hold off. It seems the product has become so popular, that quality control is non-existent. Thought I'd wait until they got their act together.

69Vett

I recently bought QJ. the problem is they supply, and most people use teflon tape for sealant.
with hydralic fluid , it is so thin it will creep tru the threads and tape.
I redid all fitting including " especially" ones QJ installed.
Instead of teflon tape, use a better Thread sealant that hardens like (Leak Lock Gold Seal)

https://www.grainger.com/product/30Z...g!477053180090!

Mine has not let 1 drop escape perfect sealant.

I like the Hoses toward the back of the car.

Rescue Rogers

Don't let my experience sway you. I think this is a great product and i would by another without regret. I just wanted everyone to be aware of the weight distribution that can cause it to shift on the lift. It could happen to any lift.

Heres the video

theres a little tour of my shop at the end

scottred80

I borrowed my Neighbors quick jacks for 1st time . have to be careful with side pipes also

Rescue Rogers

good point. I had to use an extra puck to clear my 69 style pipes

How Are You

That's not true at all. The QuickJack is an excellent product. I highly recommend it!

Hayes69

Those I beams are great! does the yellow one move laterally as well? thanks for the video. Love seeing people's garages. I dont have a quick jack but I'm interested in one.

Kevova

This actually applies to all but drive on lifts. If nose or rear is substantially higher than opposite end vehicle can fall. Long cargo straps can be used to help secure car to lift arms. Rack or jack stands floor jack under heavy end will stabilize vehicle. It is important not to try to catch vehicle if it starts to fall, it can be a fatal mistake.

Rescue Rogers

for small garages you cant beat a quick jack. I do everything with it from tires and oil changes to engine removals. And when theyre not needed you can store them on the wall or throw them in a vehicle to bring to a buddies house.

And yes, the yellow beam traverses wall to wall, left and right and if I need, I can hang small trolleys on the 2 beams in the ceililng for small jobs as well. I always wanted a setup like that as a kid when pulling motors. It all started when I found thatf irst trolley at a yard sale, then the I beams on CL. Its especially nice when pulling the vette motor since the nose is so long and my cherry picker cant pull it from the front. I used to pull it from the side but it was a hassle and dinged my fender.

That whole set up was about $500 bucks

3X2

I have the same problem when removing engines or transmissions on C5-7s. I use a ratchet tie down from the frame to the lift arm on the opposite end of the car to keep the car secure to the lift. I have no direct experience with quick jacks, I'm referring to using a lift