Vacuum relays
02-21-2019, 06:51 PM
#21
Race Director
I guess the thread that I responded to where Grant figured it out...because I KNEW he could...will let you guys know what to do.
I can say that for a wiper door car....I put in this restrictor IN the aluminium check valve. I insert it in the BIG HOSE port that is on the same side as the small port of the check valve. NOT the single port that goes to the intake fitting.....because.....THAT hose is what is allowing vacuum to go to the relays....and by slowing down the vacuum to the actual pod....give the vacuum going to the SMALL HOSE that goes to the relay.....allows the relay to pull up as it is intended to do and thus....the wiper or headlight door will stay down....and should stay down when the vacuum charge is great enough..
Keep in mind you may find that the hole in you restrictor may be as big as a sewing pin.
TRUST ME fellas...I spent a lot of time thinking about this until I found out what I could do to stop this issue and it was like a EUREKA moment. It was not UNTIL I took apart the repo relays and found out that the springs were not right....and THAT was what I needed to figure it out due to I would have good factory relays from a car and installed them on a car with all new parts and the headlight doors and wiper door worked PREFECT....but when I installed the repo replays...the wiper door or headlight would pop up when I cranked the engine.
DUB
I can say that for a wiper door car....I put in this restrictor IN the aluminium check valve. I insert it in the BIG HOSE port that is on the same side as the small port of the check valve. NOT the single port that goes to the intake fitting.....because.....THAT hose is what is allowing vacuum to go to the relays....and by slowing down the vacuum to the actual pod....give the vacuum going to the SMALL HOSE that goes to the relay.....allows the relay to pull up as it is intended to do and thus....the wiper or headlight door will stay down....and should stay down when the vacuum charge is great enough..
Keep in mind you may find that the hole in you restrictor may be as big as a sewing pin.
TRUST ME fellas...I spent a lot of time thinking about this until I found out what I could do to stop this issue and it was like a EUREKA moment. It was not UNTIL I took apart the repo relays and found out that the springs were not right....and THAT was what I needed to figure it out due to I would have good factory relays from a car and installed them on a car with all new parts and the headlight doors and wiper door worked PREFECT....but when I installed the repo replays...the wiper door or headlight would pop up when I cranked the engine.
DUB
02-22-2019, 12:12 AM
#22
Safety Car
Took awhile to figure out. I used a restrictor in the wiper door side only as my headlight relay is original and works as it's supposed too. I used a restrictor on the back or "open" side of the wiper door actuator but it would have been just as easy, (actually it would have been easier) to use the restriction on the other end of the hose at the green port on the relay itself or as DUB does, at the check valve which would cover the whole system (wiper door and headlight doors).The restriction has to be small to slow vacuum enough to allow the heavy aftermarket spring in the relay time to work. Below is what I installed. Just a shouldered rubber plug with a hole punched and a piece of tubing from a can of Sea Foam or brake cleaner stuck through it. The smallest internal size you can find. Reducing the flow creates a higher vacuum in the relay first, allowing the spring to compress and the relay to close before it catches up in the actuator and opens the door. That's the reason the door goes up and then right back down on start.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; 02-22-2019 at 01:01 AM.
