Correct t-top screws
#1
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Correct t-top screws
I'm not sure why but I cant find any information on which screws are correct for my chrome stainless t-top trim that sits on top of the center bar. The screws that are in there now have a large head and I think that they are contributing to my leaking problem...
EDIT: 1974 is the year...
I think these are close but they say "rear mount"
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...screws-4-piece
EDIT: 1974 is the year...
I think these are close but they say "rear mount"
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...screws-4-piece
Last edited by Auggievf; 02-21-2019 at 04:06 PM.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
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Auggievf (02-21-2019)
#4
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Also, is there anything else holding down that stainless piece down?
When I took the screws out, the stainless wouldn't budge. I assumed it was because of the weatherstripping underneath holding but didn't want to force it without asking.
I didn't see anything in my AIM but I may have missed it...
EDIT: Chrome isn't the same as stainless....
When I took the screws out, the stainless wouldn't budge. I assumed it was because of the weatherstripping underneath holding but didn't want to force it without asking.
I didn't see anything in my AIM but I may have missed it...
EDIT: Chrome isn't the same as stainless....
Last edited by Auggievf; 02-21-2019 at 04:05 PM.
#5
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Found a quote from @DUB in a separate thread from a couple years ago:
Removing the 'T' shaped piece of stainless trim for your T-tops to seal on WILL require removing the front windshield trim...along with the pillar post trim. If you are willing to do that...then it can come out.
Last edited by Auggievf; 02-21-2019 at 04:13 PM.
#6
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Also, is there anything else holding down that stainless piece down?
When I took the screws out, the stainless wouldn't budge. I assumed it was because of the weatherstripping underneath holding but didn't want to force it without asking.
I didn't see anything in my AIM but I may have missed it...
EDIT: Chrome isn't the same as stainless....
When I took the screws out, the stainless wouldn't budge. I assumed it was because of the weatherstripping underneath holding but didn't want to force it without asking.
I didn't see anything in my AIM but I may have missed it...
EDIT: Chrome isn't the same as stainless....
I believe the weatherstrip for what it was worth caught some of the trim and therefore held it. The rivets I believe attach to the 2 side trims and it all stays in place/Not really leak proof.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
#9
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The screws that go on the top of the 'T' trim are nothing special They are #8 sheet metal screws like you have on your car in numerous places.
You can have #8 screw with a #8 head or a #8 screw with a #6 head.
I cannot remember off the top of my head but I think they are #8 screws with a #8 head. And they do not have the spinning washer on them like many screws have on them.
And as you may now have found out that there are 1/8 pop rivets at the back of the trim that need to be drilled out..and screws that are along the side like Willcox mentioned...>AND screws that you can only get to when you take off the center windshield interior trim and visors.
DUB
You can have #8 screw with a #8 head or a #8 screw with a #6 head.
I cannot remember off the top of my head but I think they are #8 screws with a #8 head. And they do not have the spinning washer on them like many screws have on them.
And as you may now have found out that there are 1/8 pop rivets at the back of the trim that need to be drilled out..and screws that are along the side like Willcox mentioned...>AND screws that you can only get to when you take off the center windshield interior trim and visors.
DUB
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caskiguy (02-22-2019)
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Willcox
#12
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If you do take this 'T' trim off...look at the area in the first photo in POST #6
That area is where I also pump that CRL 7708 and may also use some black 3M strip caulk to make sure this area is sealed off and water does not get under the trim.
DUB
That area is where I also pump that CRL 7708 and may also use some black 3M strip caulk to make sure this area is sealed off and water does not get under the trim.
DUB
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Auggievf (02-22-2019)
#14
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I do worry about bending the trim as I remove it because it the old weather stripping under there is holding real tight.
Any tricks for a smooth release or do I just lift a little at a time slowly to pull up the weatherstripping holding it down?
Last edited by Auggievf; 02-21-2019 at 06:58 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
When USPS raised the rates in Jan, we pulled all our screw listings on eBay so that we could make corrections to the shipping.
I'll have a listing up today with the correct screws if you are interested. But.. I don't think the extra 1/4 will cause you any issue... I don't think they'll hit and you got SS screws so they won't rust.... I'll still post you the link to the original screws either way.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 02-22-2019 at 11:36 AM.
#16
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The screws were not flat headed screws and while the 3/4" may work, the screw originally had an oval head and number 6 in size. (which is smaller than the flat headed screw you purchased).
When USPS raised the rates in Jan, we pulled all our screw listings on eBay so that we could make corrections to the shipping.
I'll have a listing up today with the correct screws if you are interested. But.. I don't think the extra 1/4 will cause you any issue... I don't think they'll hit and you got SS screws so they won't rust.... I'll still post you the link to the original screws either way.
When USPS raised the rates in Jan, we pulled all our screw listings on eBay so that we could make corrections to the shipping.
I'll have a listing up today with the correct screws if you are interested. But.. I don't think the extra 1/4 will cause you any issue... I don't think they'll hit and you got SS screws so they won't rust.... I'll still post you the link to the original screws either way.
I haven't seen #8 screws with #6 heads and it seems that #6 diameter screws would be too thin to work.... I'll order a set from you once you update the listing. Thanks!
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Thanks! I wasn't sure about pan head vs flat head and figured the flat ones would be less likely to cause leaks. I tried to use one of the ones I bought last night but it bottomed out with about 1/8th of an inch left. Thats when I realized I needed shorter screws.
I haven't seen #8 screws with #6 heads and it seems that #6 diameter screws would be too thin to work.... I'll order a set from you once you update the listing. Thanks!
I haven't seen #8 screws with #6 heads and it seems that #6 diameter screws would be too thin to work.... I'll order a set from you once you update the listing. Thanks!
Willcox
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Auggievf (02-22-2019)
#18
Race Director
I know that finding the correct type of screw....such as the #8 with a #6 head can be gotten from a place like Willcox...or like I do.I get them locally from an automotive fastener supply store that carries them so I can buy a box of 50 or a 100 when I need them.
These screw as mentioned are suppose to have a domed head and it will not cause for any leaks due to that is the way it came from the factory .
DUB
These screw as mentioned are suppose to have a domed head and it will not cause for any leaks due to that is the way it came from the factory .
DUB