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Using a basic drill/bit I carefully but purposefully drilled out the down-fire lighting hole to make the tiny, inadequate down-fire hole about 25-30% larger - and, then installed a "warm" (important) white bulb. The result was a much more modern looking and useful lighting display on the climate controls and while still looking bone stock.
Hope this is helpful.
Using a basic drill/bit I carefully but purposefully drilled out the down-fire lighting hole to make the tiny, inadequate down-fire hole about 25-30% larger - and, then installed a "warm" (important) white bulb. The result was a much more modern looking and useful lighting display on the climate controls and while still looking bone stock.
Hope this is helpful.
Lakeside, thanks for your input, looks like I have a new project now lol. Do you remember the size drill bit that you used? Also, why is it important that it is "warm" white? Also what bulb number did you use? 194?
Last edited by shaun8484; Mar 5, 2019 at 09:07 AM.
LEDs white light is actually blue looking and not very attractive nor does it match the original color hue that the old bulbs put out. A warm white LED puts out a more natural light. Go to Lowes and look at the display as it related to household bulbs and you can see the difference.
Lakeside can you explain what you meant by "drilled out the down-fire lighting hole"? I cleaned up and replaced the bulb in my heater control but no real light is visibly shines through.. Thanks Ike
Lakeside can you explain what you meant by "drilled out the down-fire lighting hole"? I cleaned up and replaced the bulb in my heater control but no real light is visibly shines through.. Thanks Ike
general, I am assuming he means he drilled the hole a little larger that the light emits from.
Lakeside, follow up question, with the LED bulb did you get a certain degree of light? (90* 120*)?
The reason for the `warm' or `soft' bulb is because the standard white/blue hue looks too intense. I tried it. At first it was great being able to finally see the climate controls. It lit up everything very nicely. But, after a summer of it I went back in and did it right, replacing the bulb with the wagner bulb (which also has dual-polarity so no more nonsense with having it plugged in the right direction) matching the stock hue that it had before.
I don't remember the hole size that I drilled, but approached it very carefully going slightly larger until it was about 25% or less larger. (if you aren't satisfied with it, just take out slightly more, or refill it - pretty straightforward). This made all the difference in the world. Also, truth is, if you don't want to replace your bulb you can still carefully drill a larger hole by going straight up the hole without removing the console. I didn't do it that way because I wanted a more reliable bulb and was in there, anyway, replacing all of the bulbs. But, when I had the bezel out I noticed that there is nothing to stop you from running the bit up the current lighting downfire hole. Measure the depth to the bulb with a toothpick, then use blue tape to mark the proper stopping depth. All done.
I'm attaching a photo of how visible the gauges/climate control looks after installing warm LED bulbs. Note the comparison with the speedo/tach which were on full bright with the original bulbs. You couldn't read them at night with just a glance. You can see them now.
Note: I took this picture in my completely dark garage where you couldn't see your hand in front of your face. So, in a normal driving environment there is ambient light from the outside which further washes out the gauge visibility - so, it doesn't look this bright when you are driving it at night but you get the idea, especially comparing it with the weak OE lighting performance. It is an easy upgrade, discrete (likely no NCRS issues which I respect), and a safety improvement.
Hope this helps others!
Shaun photos of what your find would be great. I remember a bulb socket fitting into a opening at the bottom of the heat controls but I did not take the controller apart so I am curious as to how you would enlarge the opening to allow more light in.
Again I cannot even see the light coming thru my controller
Ike, the control unit itself does not illuminate. There is a small hole at the top of the center gauge bezel that shines down with the projector bulb. There is a long skinny piece that is in the middle of the top of the bezel. Towards the front of that piece is the hole that the light shines through. I will definitely take pictures during and after the project is done. I wish I could take a before and after picture however my current projector bulb is burnt out.
Shaun thank you and my apologies, I should have looked at the title its a 1981!!!! Mine is a 1972 and it does not have a light as you describe. On the controller itself, on the bottom, there is a bulb but the design of the housing lets very little light in. I am not sure why GM designed it as such and it appears that 9 years later they still didn't get it right!!
Thanks for the response and good luck with the project!!!!!!!! Ike
