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Unless you plan on full blown racing and stock HEI from the local pick and pull will be fine.You can lose the chrome garbage over the distributor as well as it won't be needed.
I finally had a little time to start investigating and decided by pulling the plugs. Aside from them looking like they are 40 years old, I don't see any issues. Granted, I'm not sure what I'm looking for. They all seem to look the same. I will say, getting them out was a major pain in the rear. Are the chrome guards really necessary, as I think it will take forever to try to get them back on.
I also decided to replace the fuel filter, although I haven't go to that yet. Bought it, but haven't installed it.
Also, I'm going to pickup plugs and wires today. Do I need to custom cut my wires to get the right length or can I buy a pre-cut set? The ones on it now are really long, In fact, #2 wire hangs down by the starter.
The plugs look a tad rich but otherwise ok......
What distributor is in this car right now?
Drive it close to home til it quits.....hop out and whack the throttle and stare down the carb throat and look for Accelerator pump squirt......if there is none....stop playing with the ignition.
Thanks Jebby. I'm not sure what distributor is on it, but I happen to have this picture from the box.
I decided to replace the plugs, since I already had them out. Once I have them in, I'll see if it will crank. If so, I'll do a little trouble shooting and see what I can find.
BTW....if you go HEI....just buy a new one.....I think 87' was the last year for them and anything that is still out there is a complete POS.
But if you decide to buy a new distributor and are $$$$$ conscious....I have used these with much success:
$245 may seem like a lot...but this is an EXACT MSD copy which means it has their advance setup and comes with adjustable can.....it does not get any easier to tune than this.
As far as wires go......I abandoned the under block plug wires and cut my own to run like any other musclecar on the road.......
I can cut a set and turn the key in 45 minutes with their spark plug wire pliers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-43390
This crimp tool has the exact cutter size for 8mm wire........once you do it this way you will wonder why you did it any other way......it is a little bit of work but makes for a clean solid install that is reliable.
Thanks Jebby. I'm not sure what distributor is on it, but I happen to have this picture from the box.
I decided to replace the plugs, since I already had them out. Once I have them in, I'll see if it will crank. If so, I'll do a little trouble shooting and see what I can find.
Thanks,
Keith
Stock drop in points distributor correct for your car:
Ok....at this point (no pun intended)....you need to verify point condition and dwell....which means you need to phone a friend with a dwell tach......28-30 degrees dwell is the number...but shoot to be on the high side.
Check connections from the distributor to the coil as well.......
But before you do any of this......do the Kamikaze dyno and drive it til it stops and verify fuel like I stated above......
Hmmm, I still feel like this has something to do with it. I'm considering purchasing a HEI, but nothing over the top. The motor is stroked and too me, doesn't run like I would expect it to. HP isn't there. I haven't been concerned since it needs a rebuild (ticking in the bottom end). Anyone have a recommendation on an HEI they have used that isn't $300+?
You have to set the dwell first, then set the timing........start at 36 degrees total timing.....disregard what timing is at idle.......the distributor should be curved as well......
I used to tune cars at my house when I worked at the speed shop years back......9 out of 10 had the timing no where near what it needed to be.......it is absolutley amazing how many guys who claim to know how to tune should be be nowhere near an engine......old school f&%$s who want to argue about the sun and everything under it.....while the owner of the car, who has spent waaaaaay too much money for an engine that runs like a turd, stands there with his hands up when it still runs like a turd, then the tuner blames it on the engine.....I would say 7 of 10 guys who claim to tune in Michigan have no idea what they are doing and in Texas it is about 9 out of 10..........never have a guy work on anything of yours if he/she cannot explain what he is doing.....
Get this squared away....set it and forget it......then move on....ignition and the timing curve are two of the three most important things on an old car.....
If I have an HEI, is it then only the timing to have to worry about? Sorry, newbie to tuning and my last "old" car was a 77 Datsun truck 30 years ago.
Keith
You mean if you put an HEI in? If so then no it will need to be curved too......
Let me just say also that the car will run just fine without a curve.........but putting a real curve in them is night and day as far as power is concerned.
I dislike HEI's....they are huge and a pain in the *** to curve.......if you buy anything....buy the distributor I posted in the link above......
I understand it's a 1972 vette right? Those came with OE mechanical tachometer and OE points distributor that also has a tach-drive for a cable to run to tachometer ...cable similar to a speedo cable.
So, none of the distributors listed above will operate the OE '72 tach. Granted, they should run the motor just fine, but not the tach. So if you order another distributor, ensure it'll also work with your tach. You can get a retrofit HEI WITH tachdrive on fleabay for under $100. Yes they're asian but they're not so bad and they can be recurved.
OP
also ... seems you have a box for aftermarket GM10 distributor ... but you think box may contain OE '72 vette distibutor ?????
If you have OE 72 dist, send that out to a pro to have it rebuilt and curved to suit your driving style-motor mods,.
Correct, the distributor currently in it will not work with the tach. I agree that my best bet is to send off the original, which I believe I have. I know I have an old distributor in that box, but haven't confirmed it's the original. Either way, it should be the right one for the car, just needs rebuilt. I started another threat to find someone to rebuild it. Lars has been the go to response, but he is not currently working on them. I'm planning to reach out to a couple of the other suggestions.
Correct, the distributor currently in it will not work with the tach. I agree that my best bet is to send off the original, which I believe I have. I know I have an old distributor in that box, but haven't confirmed it's the original. Either way, it should be the right one for the car, just needs rebuilt. I started another threat to find someone to rebuild it. Lars has been the go to response, but he is not currently working on them. I'm planning to reach out to a couple of the other suggestions.
Thanks
Keith
OK ...now I recall this from another recent similar thread.
another possibility for rebuilder is Dave Fiedler ... he's specializes in T.I. but I think he also rebuilds points distributor.
