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1969 c3 427/435

 
Old 03-24-2019, 06:00 PM
  #21  
ed427vette
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Originally Posted by Dale427 View Post
The car is a 1968 according to the VIN - you will have to get a corrected title/registration before you can sell it (but whatever you do DO NOT let the State replace the original VIN plate or ad a new one!)

1968 Corvettes did not have an engine identifier placard on the console - that didn't start until 1969. Your engine casting number is 3963512 which is a late 1969 or 1970 block and could be either 4 bolt or 2 bolt main (L71 vs L36/L68/LS5).
The 512 engine block started in early 1969, not late 69. I know its been published at times that its a late 69 block but I have one dated January 1969 that I am sure is original and have seen many other examples of early 69 blocks with the 512 casting number.

This is all pretty much moot anyway as there is no stamping on the pad making an originality determination of the block impossible. I have to disagree with 7T1VETTE that the value of this car is in the condition. The actual worth value is in originality. Without the original drivetrain and with all the mods from replaced interior to wiped out engine pad (and probably no documentation) I see this as any other non original big block 68/69 probably valued at somewhere near the low 20s if everything else is solid. Great car to have fun with but the collector end is pretty much done.
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Old 03-24-2019, 08:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dale427 View Post
The car is a 1968 according to the VIN - you will have to get a corrected title/registration before you can sell it (but whatever you do DO NOT let the State replace the original VIN plate or ad a new one!)

1968 Corvettes did not have an engine identifier placard on the console - that didn't start until 1969. Your engine casting number is 3963512 which is a late 1969 or 1970 block and could be either 4 bolt or 2 bolt main (L71 vs L36/L68/LS5).

Edit: Double check the VIN and paint code. If its a 68 it will begin with 194378S and if a 1969 194379S - the "8" and "9" designate the model year regardless of which calendar year it was built. Also, 978 paint code is international blue, a 68 color. Could the trim tag actually be 988 - which is Burgandy (1969) or cordovan maroon (1968)?
*Can also look to see if it has door buttons to open the doors.
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Old 03-24-2019, 10:13 PM
  #23  
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You may think the car needs to be painted however if the paint is original it is often better to leave the original paint on the car and have someone knowledgeable in the preservation/refurbishment of original paints. I have worked on original paint cars from 1918 1922 1935 1936 1941 1948 and tons through out the 50's 60's and 70's... many had been given up on and most shops wanted to repaint the cars... THANK GOD they didn't...
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:14 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by KingRat View Post
*Can also look to see if it has door buttons to open the doors.
Ignition switch on the dash (1968), on the steering column (1969). Lots of differences between '68 and '69: Doors, Back up lights, ignition switch position etc.

Good Luck with the car. Nice inheritance!

Last edited by A10pilot; 03-27-2019 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 06:29 PM
  #25  
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I finally got around to taking some pictures. Also, I saw the title and it's listed as a 1968. I have no idea why my dad said 1969 all the time. What do you guys think is a fair price for it? Thanks!




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Old 06-12-2019, 07:16 PM
  #26  
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Ok. Rectangle not oval port intake. Both worth about the same. Needs paint BAD! And not orig so a good MAACO job would be an improvement. Most buyers would be turned off by the guitar-looking sunburst fade. Where are you? A lot of guys on here could mebbe tackle the 2 body damage spots without paying body shop prices. And/or talk you through the repair. Post pics of the damage. Are you capable of doing the clutch, fuel pump, etc? You can't get back what you spend restoring a car to sell, but getting it from dead to drivable is usually a pretty big jump in value.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by derekderek View Post
Ok. Rectangle not oval port intake. Both worth about the same. Needs paint BAD! And not orig so a good MAACO job would be an improvement. Most buyers would be turned off by the guitar-looking sunburst fade. Where are you? A lot of guys on here could mebbe tackle the 2 body damage spots without paying body shop prices. And/or talk you through the repair. Post pics of the damage. Are you capable of doing the clutch, fuel pump, etc? You can't get back what you spend restoring a car to sell, but getting it from dead to drivable is usually a pretty big jump in value.
Thanks for the reply. I'm in NJ. I am capable of doing those things, but I'm curious where the threshold is. How much is a clutch job roughly in terms of parts? I already looked up the fuel pump, and a replacement is only about $50. How much would a fair price for this be in its current condition (bad clutch, bad pump, runs but only when hand fed) vs. if those things were fixed? I would prefer to leave the paint job to the buyer, and just credit them for what I would have paid for a MAACO job, that way they can spec out their own color. Thanks again for the help!
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:57 PM
  #28  
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that's an early 70's frt end on that car,also don't drive that car with that accelerator spring on there,get the correct one.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:23 PM
  #29  
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You have a car that has all different year parts on it.

You have a 69 interior including having the ignition switch on the string wheel. That is VERY odd conversion for a 68. As mentioned the 70 nose. That is lots of hours and money to correct.

If the drivetrain is original and its a 400hp tripower someone MIGHT pay near $15K. Maybe. If the AC is original and it is a 400hp with original drivetrain and if you are lucky enough to have a legible tank sticker.

There is (or was last week) a 390hp 427 '69 with the original drivetrain in better condition for $10k on NY Craigslist. Might still be there.

Good Luck if you sell it.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:29 PM
  #30  
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Also, I noticed you have a vac relay on the firewall. That is a late 69 production change. Very odd. Also, the alternator is a 69. I believe the 68 style alternator required a voltage regulator. The alt in your car is the side mount style (and it has the fins on the rear case which makes it either a 69/70 dated alt and that is pretty good!) It should have the rear plug type. So, some ectronics are changed.
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:48 AM
  #31  
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it has 69 and later doors. in the body pic you can zoom in on the passenger door. Lots of mods done to make a 68 look like a 69. If you get it running and riving safely you can get close to 20K i would thing because of the 427 tripower. You could just sell it as it sits as a project and get $10 to $15k i would think. Dont let it get rained on any longer, the T tops are known to leak and it will just get the interior moldy. Get a car cover, pop up tent or a good tarp.

The vacuum actuator canister for the wipers is also 69. lots of parts in that engine bay that are later model parts
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:19 PM
  #32  
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Clutch kits range from 100 to 1500 bucks. Where in NJ?
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:18 PM
  #33  
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With all those changes, why are people willing to accept what the title says? That's just a piece of paper. Check the VIN, and use this site to confirm year, and other things. I bet it's a 69.

http://corvettec3.ca/

Good luck with your sale.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:54 PM
  #34  
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Did any 1969's have dash speakers? I thought that was a 1970+ thing..
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