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1971 LT1 roadster find and Qs

 
Old 05-11-2019, 08:46 AM
  #21  
20round
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Originally Posted by maj75 View Post
NFW the frame and birdcage are good on that car.

LOL well, the frame is real nice...the original owner drove it out too his cabin 2yrs ago and covered it up. and he just died recently.. i am going too get more pictures today hopefully.. it is going to be a estate sale im thinking..no family members, his best friend got everything and is selling it all...i am hoping that we can find the protecto-plate and other papers for it. These pictures were taken the first time we saw it. Still not great pics. As I said I hoping to go again today.

Last edited by 20round; 05-11-2019 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:20 AM
  #22  
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The fenders don't seem to have popped from the base of the windshield, which means the car probably has never had a front end accident... even VERY minor front end bumps on the bumper which result in little fiberglass damage will usually pop the bonds there.
The doors and covt boot appear to be in nice alignment, which usually means the frmae has not collapsed at the rear mounts - which causes the door gap to get closer. - the GOOD NEWS is the cross bar rivets behind the headlamps don't appear to be protruding out... maybe it has only been outside for 2 years!

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Old 05-11-2019, 11:40 AM
  #23  
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No pics of the usual rust spots but I don’t see any of the usual signs of terminal rust. No sagging doors, no serious rust on air cleaner or hood prop. Filthy but this could be a very good find depending on the price.
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Old 05-11-2019, 02:25 PM
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What ever you do check the tank before doing anything like trying to start it and DO NOT USE ETHER... you are just washing down the cylinder walls and chancing scoring a bore.
Squirt some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and then take a breaker bar and try to turn the engine, if it's free let it sit for a few days with the marvel... change the oil and prime the system with an old distributor... or alternatively (with flint built small blocks - all solid lifter small blocks) you can remove the 1/4" plug at the front of the cam gallery thread in a fitting and pressurize oil through the engine oil galleries so you don't have to remove the distributor. . .

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Old 05-12-2019, 09:22 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by firstgenaddict View Post
What ever you do check the tank before doing anything like trying to start it and DO NOT USE ETHER... you are just washing down the cylinder walls and chancing scoring a bore.
Squirt some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and then take a breaker bar and try to turn the engine, if it's free let it sit for a few days with the marvel... change the oil and prime the system with an old distributor... or alternatively (with flint built small blocks - all solid lifter small blocks) you can remove the 1/4" plug at the front of the cam gallery thread in a fitting and pressurize oil through the engine oil galleries so you don't have to remove the distributor. . .

yes you are right! i have been down this road before.you must be careful, and check everything..
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:39 PM
  #26  
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I'd be all over that car.
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Old 05-13-2019, 12:53 AM
  #27  
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I used to live in Montague. Wonder why a person would just leave a car like that out in the woods? By the looks of that front tire ,it's going to need front suspension work along with a top. How is the interior? Depending on what the price is and not knowing the rest of the drive train story, you might get lucky or by a money pit
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg View Post
I'd be all over that car.

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Old 05-16-2019, 06:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by l82vett View Post
I used to live in Montague. Wonder why a person would just leave a car like that out in the woods? By the looks of that front tire ,it's going to need front suspension work along with a top. How is the interior? Depending on what the price is and not knowing the rest of the drive train story, you might get lucky or by a money pit
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Old 05-16-2019, 06:37 AM
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here are some more pics, red squirrels are a pain in the *** up here! They make a mess. Vin match’s engine, rear sway bar with caps on half shafts.

Last edited by 20round; 05-16-2019 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:43 PM
  #31  
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first I would need to see the frame and the birdcage on this car before I would go any further.
then I would have to get over this very questionable stamp in order to pay anything near LT1 basket case price for this car. I would have to see the casting date of the engine block.
No broaching, no patina, no gang stamp and different fonts not lining up are definite show stoppers for me even before I look for the other LT1 characteristics..

but someone will see the 'barn find' aspect of the car and pay out the wazoo....
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:16 PM
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So is the car going to be listed for sale ? or do you have a deal going on it. I'm not interested in it as I just bought a 1980 L82 from a similar situation. I just made a offer to the estate and it was accepted. Long distance between car and relative . Interesting thing was the relative is 60 miles from where I'm at now, Just a short drive and handed over the cash. Now the long drive back to the car.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by l82vett View Post
So is the car going to be listed for sale ? or do you have a deal going on it. I'm not interested in it as I just bought a 1980 L82 from a similar situation. I just made a offer to the estate and it was accepted. Long distance between car and relative . Interesting thing was the relative is 60 miles from where I'm at now, Just a short drive and handed over the cash. Now the long drive back to the car.
very cool! have fun with it....
yes i am working a deal on it...they have been cleaning his cabin out now, trying too find paperwork..
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:36 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by joewill View Post
first I would need to see the frame and the birdcage on this car before I would go any further.
then I would have to get over this very questionable stamp in order to pay anything near LT1 basket case price for this car. I would have to see the casting date of the engine block.
No broaching, no patina, no gang stamp and different fonts not lining up are definite show stoppers for me even before I look for the other LT1 characteristics..

but someone will see the 'barn find' aspect of the car and pay out the wazoo....
well, it took me a 1/2 can or more of brake clean a wire tooth brush and a lot of wiping too reveal those numbers! so your patina that your looking for was washed away and scrubbed on....i have no doubt this is original..the broach marks are there,but hard too see with my phone camera.. the engine code is odd, and im wondering if the 3 digit engine suffix was stamped with the first 2 digits "CG" and then the "Z" for a LT1 could be added. or a "T" for the 270 hp motor could be added? someone with more know how then me needs too chime in there? i am gonna be talking too his old friend that was with him when he bought it new. he has all the history/stories about the car and the owner. thanks troy
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Old 05-19-2019, 07:46 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 20round View Post











here are some more pics, red squirrels are a pain in the *** up here! They make a mess. Vin match’s engine, rear sway bar with caps on half shafts.

FYI,
Original carbs only have a 3 digit date code, replacement carbs have 4 digits. Not aware that any LT-1 came with a rear sway bar, the half shafts caps would be correct.
Best of luck getting the car.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:34 AM
  #36  
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The car was one of the earliest '71 Vettes built at No. 150 so I am guessing the middle of the first week. Probably the very first batch of '71 LT-1's through the Flint engine plant. I have seen other funky engine assembly stamps like that so the separate stamped last digit does not scare me. Not an expert but I would believe this stamp is legit.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:40 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 7007vette View Post
FYI,
Original carbs only have a 3 digit date code, replacement carbs have 4 digits. Not aware that any LT-1 came with a rear sway bar, the half shafts caps would be correct.
Best of luck getting the car.

thank you, yes i know the carb is a 4 digit replacement... but at least the PO had the sense too do that..my wife works at a chevy dealer, i was thinking about having her run the vin for service records? i may have miss spoke on the rear sway bar? i swear i saw one under there? i will double check you got me wondering now! thanks troy
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:42 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by stingr69 View Post
The car was one of the earliest '71 Vettes built at No. 150 so I am guessing the middle of the first week. Probably the very first batch of '71 LT-1's through the Flint engine plant. I have seen other funky engine assembly stamps like that so the separate stamped last digit does not scare me. Not an expert but I would believe this stamp is legit.

kinda what i was thinking...thanks troy
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:54 AM
  #39  
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Sad to see! Varmints have probably done as much damage as the rust. The smell alone might never go away. Curious as to how many people over the years tried to buy that car, only to be told not for sale as I am going to restore it. But, I would still try to get it!
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:37 PM
  #40  
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A 4803 Carb is a 1975 over the counter service replacement for an LS6 in a Corvette or Chevelle.
Recheck the sway bar, I don't believe LT-1s had one, but they did have the U-Joint Caps.
Also look for the transistor ignition module or screw holes.
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