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Starter. Buy a 50 buck Ebay starter permanent magnet. Take the current starter and clean it and find the numbers on the nose and field housing. If it is the orig starter, find a local rebuilder or put brushes, solenoid contacts, etc in it yourself and put it on the shelf.
Starter. Buy a 50 buck Ebay starter permanent magnet. Take the current starter and clean it and find the numbers on the nose and field housing. If it is the orig starter, find a local rebuilder or put brushes, solenoid contacts, etc in it yourself and put it on the shelf.
yaa derek, i took the battery out and tested it on my carbon pile load tester. well its junk! a lite load dropped it too 6 volts in less then 2 sec. so i bought a new napa battery but i have not had a chance too install it, monday for sure..all the braces supports,shielding and wire clip are on the starter so i am hoping its still OEM, i am sure it is..it is missing the top ignition shield and the lower covers. i found one of the lowers that i think goes over the dip stick and covers 5-7 plugs but its rusty after laying in the jack box for a while..thanks troy
Looks like it has the correct “0” stamped rocker arms, and a clean top end. So far so good!
When i first got mine home, it was running like crap. My rockers were way out of spec. I adjusted them, and the engine runs very smooth now. Unlike hydraulic lifters, the solid lifter engines do need attention periodically to keep them in spec.
Thats a handy lift you have there!
thank you! its a BENDPAK i think thats how you spell it? i have a comercial account at the local advance auto. and they were offering 6 months same as cash..so i bought the lift while doing my 65. it was priceless at the body shop when sanding the body sides and lower area.. when i was done with it, i set it up on the end of car port and had my 68 on it for dismantling and wash. i highly recommend one! in the winter i wheeled it in the shop and put the 68 frame on it. it works well when not in use, you can still park over it and not loose space..thanks troy
Agreed. Duke's revised LT-1 lash specs are critical especially when using factory rocker arms. Your valve train will thank you for it. If you have trouble finding his specs, let me know. I have the paper somewhere and even a copy of the raw cam lift data.
i read over the paper from duke.. am i reading this right? he says too set the LT-1 lash at .016- .023 cold. and the 30-30 cam at .023-.023?
holy crap! i set them at .030 cold thinking i did not want to hurt anything! i am glade i did not get it started yet..if you agree i read this right i am going back and ajusting those again.. give me your thoughts guys!
You won't hurt it running it the way you lashed it. I ran my 30-30 cam lashed at 30-40 for 27 years. But it will run better / smoother lashed the way he mentioned. Yes the 30-30 idles much worse than the LT-1 cam too. Had both in my '70 LT-1. That's why I lashed my 30-30 the way I did. But that extra lash is on the borderline too being enough to hurt the cam. Lashing it hot is a big mess. That procedure is the correct way to lash it cold. One or two at a time. Or just "EO and IC".
Does anyone know if these cam specs / long ramps would apply to the L72 big block cars too? I would expect that they would, as the L72 is at least mentioned.
Ontario Orange was the third most popular color in 71 & most popular in 72. It was the "brochure" car color too. But I see very few of them today, it seems as if most of them have been re-colored, red being very common, as mine was. I also found out that the original Ontario Orange with Gold Metal flake didn't look all that hot in original Laquer paint. It sometimes mottled too.There were a couple other firemist colors as well. But when re-done in current technology paints with clearcoat the Gold Metalflake really pops and looks great. I did see a couple at Carlisle and one that was original, and the new clearcoat ones definately look deeper and sparkle 100% better. The original one looked a little "flat".I did see one shot without the metalflake and it did not look like the same color hardly. Buffing a metalflake car withour clearcoat kills a lot of the sparkle. So be careful if you buff this one out, and it doesn't have clearcoat, have a pro do it.
i read over the paper from duke.. am i reading this right? he says too set the LT-1 lash at .016- .023 cold. and the 30-30 cam at .023-.023?
holy crap! i set them at .030 cold thinking i did not want to hurt anything! i am glade i did not get it started yet..if you agree i read this right i am going back and ajusting those again.. give me your thoughts guys!
I used to set my "30-30" at .026"/.026" Based on earlier information, but I do not run that cam anymore. You don't have a "30-30" cam unless something has been done to the engine. As Duke said, the difference between hot and cold lash spec is minimal (maybe.002"). If you want to check that, just set one pair of rockers hot, and let the engine cool overnight then recheck.
Generally with the LT-1 cam you will increase duration somewhat if the lash is set too tight so idle quality and performance suffers. Too loose does not change the operation quite as much but it does get noisy and is harder on the valve train. The long slow clearance ramp changes to a faster valve lift ramp right at the optimal lash point.
I would set them tighter per Duke's LT-1 cam specs.
i read over the paper from duke.. am i reading this right? he says too set the LT-1 lash at .016- .023 cold. and the 30-30 cam at .023-.023?
holy crap! i set them at .030 cold thinking i did not want to hurt anything! i am glade i did not get it started yet..if you agree i read this right i am going back and ajusting those again.. give me your thoughts guys!
Hmmmm, the paper I used spec'd .020 & .026. I have no explanation for the different values. He's a frequent poster on the NCRS website, you could log on there and ask him. He is also quite particular about the point in rotation when one is to adjust to the suggested clearance for a specific valve. I tried to interest him in buying a very nice neighboring house that's on the market, figuring he'd be a very handy neighbor, LOL.
Hmmmm, the paper I used spec'd .020 & .026. I have no explanation for the different values. He's a frequent poster on the NCRS website, you could log on there and ask him. He is also quite particular about the point in rotation when one is to adjust to the suggested clearance for a specific valve. I tried to interest him in buying a very nice neighboring house that's on the market, figuring he'd be a very handy neighbor, LOL.
your funny, i dont blame yaa i would love to have a neighbor like that.!!
Well I tried starting the car with a new battery, the starter is dragging bad. So I pulled it out only too find s mouse nest in the bell housing, Nasty ******!
The starter is original born with as far as I am tell by the date. I was digging that.
It also had a yellow marking on it.
It works great now with drive,noid, and brush’s. If possible I will be installing it Monday. Thanks troy
...congrats 20round, great find & great story!!! Super cool that it's one of the first & lowest known '71 LT-1 cars found. Very nice!!! Keep posting the progress!!! Everybody loves pics!!!
I have the starter back on the car motor rolls over good now no dragging. Plenty of oil pressure everything looks real well. I pull the carburetor off and put new gaskets in it and clean it up lotta dirt. I’ve had a lot of holly carburetors a part before. But I have never seen any baffling inside like this before?
I have the starter back on the car motor rolls over good now no dragging. Plenty of oil pressure everything looks real well. I pull the carburetor off and put new gaskets in it and clean it up lotta dirt. I’ve had a lot of holly carburetors a part before. But I have never seen any baffling inside like this before?
I have no idea what you’re referring to I went to the links that you sent I don’t need new floats I was just curious about the baffling inside the float bowl and inside metering block
06-02-2019, 07:23 AM
