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Was driving my 74 today, all was good. Stopped at grocery store for 10 minutes. When I got back and tried to start, nothing happened when I turned the key. I thought maybe battery, but my Red Top is fine, all lights and electric windows worked great. Engine did not even try to turn over. I played with shifter, (automatic) but no matter what, nothing happens when I turn the key. Any ideas?
Neutral safety switch, possibly wires on starter loos or broken. Check wiring on your steering column not fully seated. Then it could be the starter. Assuming the grounds are good. Sometimes taping on the starter with a hammer can get it running not too hard though.
also see if any dash lights change as you turn key from on to crank. the switch is activated by a rod hung on column a few inches below the key. could be loose, bad contacts, etc. if nothing shows on dash as you crank, it probably isn't moving far enough to make contact.
My 71 neutral switch was acting up and then would start in any position (automatic). Pulled into garage and turned off motor. Tried starting it again and nothing. Bypassed neutral switch. Still nothing. Will try the suggestions above tomorrow. Thanks to everyone’s help.
My 77 did just this one day. Bump started the car and got it home. Found a connector (plastic) to the right of the wiper motor (as your sitting in the car). That's not shown in the factory wiring wiring manual. The wire is the one going to the solenoid to ingage the starter. Cut out this bad connector. Car fired right up. I then put a relay in at that location to take the load off the starter and clutch switches. Hope this helps
I had a problem like this with my '73 - it started every time when it was cold but wouldn't start after it had warmed up. In my case the engine was poorly grounded and heat added enough impedance the starter wouldn't crank. I replaced the engine ground wire with 0 gauge cable and new connectors and the engine starts every time now.
Hot solenoid. That what my 75 would do. I used to either have to wait or pour water on it.
Heat soak on the starter. VERY COMMON.
1. You don't need a new starter rebuild the solenoid....which means clean it and re-assemble with some thick lube on the pivots *bendix).
2. Clean the pinion and shaft.
3. Paint it if you will (scrape the paint off the mating surfaces!) THAT'S a GROUND.
4. Clean all terminals shiny.
5. Get a starter heat shield and install.
OR keep a spray bottle of water around! Don't laugh...it works almost instantly!
Still no start — location of starter relay / fuses
I’m learning as I go....have replaced the known bad neutral switch following the excellent write up and pictures in the forum. Verified the starter and solenoid work by using a screwdriver to crank engine. Multimeter shows no voltage at “s” terminal on solenoid When key is held in start position.
Not sure where starter relay located or which fuse(s) are part of system.
Last edited by Greg71; May 11, 2019 at 02:15 PM.
Reason: Not finished
Happened to my 76 last summer.After going all winter without starting it, I remembered the little trick we used to do as kids with no money. I tapped on the started "lightly" with a hammer and it turned right over and started. Not saying that is your problem but just a backyard and cheap method of troubleshooting the starter.
There is no relay unless somebody added it later. Hitting with hammer causes worn brushes to make contact and tells you you need a starter. Put a piece of wire on S terminal. Long enough to reach battery. That will tell you if it is the starter or the circuit that fires it.
My 77 did just this one day. Bump started the car and got it home. Found a connector (plastic) to the right of the wiper motor (as your sitting in the car). That's not shown in the factory wiring wiring manual. The wire is the one going to the solenoid to engage the starter. Cut out this bad connector. Car fired right up. I then put a relay in at that location to take the load off the starter and clutch switches. Hope this helps
Agree, same thing happened to me. Actually that outer weather connector was latched closed but the spade connection had come apart inside of it. Talk about needle in haystack. I grabbed the in/out wires, not the outer latching connector, and pushed the wires into the connector. The lower wire moved into the connector about one quarter inch and car fired right up. BINGO.
...could possibly have a very corroded negative ground cable coming off of your battery to the frame. My old '75 did this(had enough juice for lights, windows, etc.)but not enough juice to spin the starter. The cable where it connects to the frame below the battery was swelled up three times it's normal size. I cut the sheathing off and the metal cable inside was just all corroded with a white powdery substance. I replaced it with a new cable and it started instantly.
...about 10yrs ago when my '74 failed to start it was due to that interlock relay under the hood went bad and I by-passed it under the silver cover with the black button and to this day works great.
There is no relay unless somebody added it later. Hitting with hammer causes worn brushes to make contact and tells you you need a starter. Put a piece of wire on S terminal. Long enough to reach battery. That will tell you if it is the starter or the circuit that fires it.
Found this looking for my no start issue. Was told this is a relay for the ac/heater fan. Obviously seen better ( cooler) days. Replaced with new relay and connectors
Ended up starter / solenoid replaced and all seems good..... for now
Mechanic found loose motor mount bolt (right side front) which is the cause of the “clunk” when placing automatic into drive. Bolt is too long. Can’t tighten down as it hits fuel pump. Can’t back it out.... header in the way. Will tackle this on another day!!
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