nascar57

I am wiring up a new stereo and noticed I'm not getting power at the accessory terminal at the fuse box when ignition key is on accessory. It gets power when I turn the key to the on position. The power, ignition terminals all get power with the key on. I tested the brown and orange wire at the switch on the bottom of the steering column and they have power when in the on position but they never get power when I turn the key to the accessory position. Cant seem to find a switched source anywhere! Bad ignition switch at the bottom of the column?

F22

If you have the FSM, it will tell you what inputs and outputs go through the ignition switch on the steering column. Drop the column and go through it, cycling the key through the various positions and see what comes out of it. If you have a Power Probe, that's even better, along with a colored schematic. I wouldn't do electrical on any vehicle without the Power Probe and they're not that expensive, versus the time you spend without or using a multimeter. It will instantly tell you, if you even have a good circuit or not and that's a great start.

doorgunner

I had to disassemble my IGN switch on another vehicle....once I cleaned the contacts/greased/reassembled the switch everything worked fine.

Rescue Rogers

Eliredandblack

My 73 does the same thing, only voltage when key is in the run position. I have been into the column on a few occasions and
not in a hurry to go back in (something always seems to break). I have decided to pick up power at the radio (yellow wire), it easy to get to and provides the same results. I never realized my ignition was broken. Also seems that my car’s PO disabled the key left in buzzer, switch is probably bad, good time for “while I am there” to check the switch.

nascar57

I tried adjusting the switch at the bottom of the column which didnt change anything. It was adjusted correctly. I probed the orange and brown wires coming off the switch and no power to those in the accessory position. I've been looking for anywhere to get accessory power and cannot find any. I'm wondering if I just put battery power to the radio wire that calls for switched power will it hurt anything or drain the battery?

Rescue Rogers

If you pull the fuse box off and roll it over you can see 2 wires going to few different connections. Maybe one of those is broken. My dsh and running light wire broke so i could see it happening to another.

Eliredandblack

Nascar57
First, I just went out and on my 73 turning the key to accessory does not send power to the radio. So my switch is broken like yours. I can’t think of anything except the radio that runs when the key is turned to the accessory position. By tapping into the positive wire going to the radio, you will have voltage when the engine is on. Thanks for letting me know the adjustment of the switch didn’t help. I will move on, unless I have to go into the steering column for something else.
Good Luck
Eli

nascar57

I'm wondering if other C3 owners can chime in? Does your accessory power terminal on the fuse box get power with the key in the ACC position? Does the radio work when turned to ACC? I really dont want the radio to have power 24/7.

Eliredandblack

Nascar57
You know that you have too many cars, when you can’t recall how to turn the key to the Accessory position. Or maybe I am just old. I was in another one of my cars and realized that I was Not Turning the key towards me, when trying to get into the accessory position. Ok, I will admit to being a Southern Bubba. Once I turned the key toward me the radio came on, but the FM Signal Generator (for my IPhone) does not come on. I have it connected to the fuse box accessory spade lug. That’s the reason I am going to tap into the yellow positive wire that goes to the radio. Sorry for all the confusion on my part.
Eli

nascar57

Glad it worked for you! Hoping someone that has had and fixed this issue can post up too. I could hook both radio wires to a constant 12v source but not sure its a good idea. Would it drain the battery etc.

Richard454

You have really "two"ignitions-

One that is hot on accessory and ignition but not start (radio/wipers)
The second is not hot on accessory-but on ignition and start (gauges)

If the wipers are not working on accessory- then the rod or ignition switch is at fault- if they work on accessory than the fault lies most likely on the fusebox.

As far as wiring the radio- the ignition wire pulls no power at all(usually red on an aftermarket radio)-it just turns the radio on off with ignition

The constant power wire (usually yellow) actually powers the radio .

Wiring both to the constant source will not drain the battery-just a pain to turn off and on...

Id just use the OEM yellow wire for the switched ignition

nascar57

Thanks Richard. Thats helpful. I just want to be able to listen to the radio as normal when driving but I dont want to have the ignition on to listen to the radio while parked. I thought the ACC terminal in the fuse box would be a good switched source when I turn the key to the ACC position. Anyway, Looks like best idea is to use the yellow radio wire for that. Hopefully I can find the radio wires and rewire without disassembling anything.. Hope.. hope.....