OLE442

Well, I have started removing the old radiator and did happen to break off the bottom passenger side stud that holds the shroud on! Darn, it felt like it was moving. I have started using PB Blaster whether it looks like I need it or not and working it slowly and re- tightening it a couple times while removing them.

Dropped the alternator, removed the air cleaner and snorkel/air intake, removed the fan and pulley, loosened the air cond. compressor, loosened most of the top bolts for the shroud but still haven't removed it because I think there may be a couple more bolts.

Just curious if I have to move the air cond. compressor out of the way to get the shroud off? I sure hope not!!

I also am fighting the lower automatic transmission line at the radiator. It's kinda funky because a lot of it is rubber hose with clamps. Any I have done over the years had all steel lines to the radiator fittings. I have soaked the fittings with PBB and will go slow.

I'm putting in a new Dewitt aluminum radiator, new hoses and DeWitt high performance coolant with additives for the aluminum radiator.

Any tips and other info will be appreciated.

Thanks,
OLE442

7T1vette

Too late, now...

I was going to suggest that you just cut thru the bottom of the shroud (front-to-back in the middle) so that you could remove it a LOT easier. Then drill a couple of holes on each side of the split, make a small aluminum plate, and Pop-rivet it back together. Paint the splice black or whatever to make it less visible, if you want. That shroud is a PITA to remove on an a/c car.

OLE442

Wouldn't you need to cut the top of the shroud too?

palmbeachvette76

Though it's more work I have found raising the car and removing the front wheels so you can take out the upper control arm bolts is the easiest thing. the control arms are the biggest thing in the way of the shroud.. I kept the shims in order and set the controls arms to the side a few inches giving the clearance needed. Now this was discovered on my 3rd go round with the radiator when I finally switched to a dewitts. The radiator sits in a metal frame that you'll need to loosen and or remove 2 bolts from each side that are accessed from outside of the frame. This allows some wiggle room and makes it easier taking the radiator out and might give you some room to remove the trans cooler lines but the shroud is the nightmare but again with the upper control arms out of the way it makes things a lot easier.

Eric

7T1vette

Once you cut thru the bottom of the shroud, it is flexible enough to wiggle out of its "home". If the owner is a 'purist' and can't cut the shroud...."you get what you asked for".

Otherwise, it's the simplest alternative.

OLE442

I may try the method of cutting the shroud at the bottom. I'm somewhat of a purist but it isn't a chrome bumper hot engine Vette so what the hey. I'm pure enough to want a non-leaking radiator instead of the original radiator that leaks. I did put a removable rear window in it so I'm not really that muck of a purist. Thanks for the input!

HeadsU.P.

Yes, that lower tranny line on the Rad is a PITA to get at. Once you get it off, switch the hose clamp to a hexagon worm style. That way you can use a nut-driver on the clamp instead of cussing at a slipping screwdriver.

On my '77, all belts off, clutch fan off, shroud loose, I just laid the shroud over the water-pump. The pulled the Rad. Then the shroud slips right out.
I hate to see anybody cut the shroud. It will never be the same.

Mod75

After the first time i pulled the radiator, i said to my self there has to be an easier way, yes cut the bottom of the shroud.
No, i am not a purist.

pd64

I cut the shroud at the bottom as well. Screwed a metal plate that I painted black on the bottom and some black silicone on the top so the split is barely noticeable. As mentioned pulling the rad with the shroud attached may be an option.

OLE442

HeadsU.P., pd64 and Mod75:

Did your cars have air conditioning and power steering? I think the late 76 and later was a bit different from my early 76 though. It sure is tight in there with everything coming together in a very limited space. I'm working slowly and trying not to get in a hurry or excited. I can break things pretty easy....LOL! So, I try to stay calm.

Pa'svette

If you are replacing just the radiator the shroud doesn't need to come out. Just take it loose from the support and move it back toward the engine. Should give you room to remove the radiator.

pd64

I have an early 76 with PS no AC. Manual trans so didn’t have to deal with transmission lines.

HeadsU.P.

Yes on both options. I am not a purist. Hate to see a shroud cut not because its a lot easier, but rather some of the cobble / bubba jobs putting it back together look like shet.

OLE442

Anyone have a picture of an AIM or GM shop manual with a diagram of the radiator area including the radiator, shroud, core support and mounting hardware that I could get a scan of?

Might help taking this apart and re-assembling it!

Thanks, OLE442

carriljc

Here is a link with pictures, pointers, and guidance:
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/?yt=1976&s=radiator

Bikespace

I'm not really a purist either, but I hate to see a large part wasted for convenience. I was able to remove the shroud in my 80 without cutting it. I had the water pump, hood, and upper control arms removed at the time, and the upper radiator bolts loose. Easy! A new dual-Spal fan replaced it.

RocketNerd

Just did this on my 76, if you're not a purist, then the upgrade to the DeWitt's electric fans for the radiator is well worth it. ditch the shroud and the big spinning metal finger guillotine and run the SPAL fans. it was 108 here the other day, driving home from work, with just a 50/50 blend the temp barely got over 185 when the fans were running, and that was even without my air dam installed, they move a ton of air through that awesome radiator.

OLE442

Well, this radiator replacement is a bear at every turn. Got the fan shroud out by making the cuts. It really needed to have the water pump removed to get it out without scuffing up the old radiator. I made a way to make it work. It's like they built this car so you have to disassemble half of it to do a repair that would be fairly easy on a passenger car of the same era!

Getting the old radiator out then became another ordeal. Every way i'd try to move it, it would be blocked or snag on something especially the lower inlet vs. the front right side suspension! My wife and I worked it around and turned it a weird way and it just came out! I'm not sure how I can get the new expensive radiator back in?

Tomorrow, my brother and I will take the hood off.....which I was trying to avoid....darn. I'm thinking the only way I can get it in is by pulling the core support and assemble it all and try to slide it back in in one chunk. Of course, I have the evaporator (?) in front of the radiator to deal with also without effing it up! I'm afraid it won't go in as planned. That will be my luck. I really don't want to undo the front suspension or to remove the AC compressor? Everyone says this is easy but this is the worst time I've ever had with replacing a radiator.

OLE442

Bikespace

I'm impressed you got the radiator out without taking the hood off first.

With some creative use of ratchet straps, I was able to remove my hood by myself. Make sure you mark the hinges EXACTLY, if you want the hood to go back on easily. Going back on was a bit more of a chore, but I managed that alone, too.

KenSny

Engine and all that was installed BEFORE body was dropped on car at the factory.
How nice it would be if we could just lift the front part of the body off to work on engine compartment.