Buttersvette

I have a fi-tech fuel injection on my 68 327. When cold starts up great, runs fantastic. But when it gets to 180-190 degrees and I turn it off, let it set for 10 min it won’t start until it cools down. Maybe an hour or two later. Really frustrating and when you call for help there is somebody that is no help at all telling you that it is something I did.... but they have know idea what it might be. Anybody else have this problem? Should have bought a sniper f.i.

74Ken

watching this closely before I purchase

Kacyc3

need more details.. is the starter not turning over? What have you done for trouble shooting?

Buttersvette

Cranks over fine. Battery is at correct voltage. If there is a voltage drop it won't start. Fuel pump is noisy l so that seems to be fine, plus it works fine when car is started.

ronarndt

Can you tell if the unit is actually getting liquid fuel or might it be vapor locked? I have an electric fuel pump on my 68 bb with carburetor and when the engine is hot and left standing for 15-30 minutes it takes a couple seconds for the fuel pump to push out the gas vapors and put liquid gas in the carb.

Kacyc3

this is my thought also as I have read multiple users having this difficulty with these systems. Also is the efi system getting fresh air or is it breathing underhood air? Hoping the user has checked for fuel spraying and spark while cranking.No spark makes me think issues with dist/coil/ecm, no fuel leads me to vapor lock possible ecm issue.

l82vett

FiTech is a high fuel pressure system. It shouldn't have a vapor lock problem unless the fuel line is right on the engine. Check the fuel pressure and see if you have spark. A coil will lose voltage when it gets hot. Also if you have a stock distributor the condenser inside will cause a no start when hot, and start when it cools off. I have had both happen a couple of times.

Buttersvette

Brand new hei dist. I think it has something to do with computer. I think there is temp related program in the computer. I was hoping there were some fI tech owners out there with the same problem.

Kacyc3

there are modifiers in the program that add a % of fuel depending on temp to get it started, with a warm temp this shouldnt be your problem unless it is set to remove fuel (not sure its an option) when warm. If this uses the command center I have read that some with brands it needs to have a return line or the fuel in the command center can get hot an cause a vapor lock.

Buttersvette

I do have return line to the tank.

60 SHARK

Have you tryed adding throttle when cranking, when you have the hot condition, ,
Also,, holding the gas pedal on the floor befor you turn key to ON position should cancel the priming shot of fuel, if you are still useing default settings,,,

But you really need to determine if you have spark and fuel, when cranking , , ,

This is my second driveing season with my FiTech, and am really enjoying it,, sorry to hear of your issues, ,,,,

Buttersvette

Thanks 60 shark. I will give that a try. I know mine is set at default settings. Did you have to change your settings a lot or are they pretty close?

60 SHARK

So far, all I have adjusted is the target idle RPM, my engine is not a super high performance build, just heads, intake, cam, headers, just a small amount of more horsepower, just for normal driving,

Buttersvette

My 327 is very mild also. Thought this would be simple add on. Just curious did you go with fuel pump outside tank or buy the system in the tank? I can’t explain how loss my fuel pump is when starting the car.

60 SHARK

I built my own in tank system utilizing the factory sending unit to handle my pump and Holly Hydra matte in place,, I didn't want to put any other holes in my tank ,,,, i did post a thread with some pix of what I made,, you might find it,,

GN1978

I was having the same hot start issue with my MSD Atomic EFI (installed in a 78). I believe some sort of vapor lock was occurring in the fuel rail as it was super hot to the touch. My fix or at least it's been working was to add a one way check valve to the fuel line (using AN firings) where it meets the fuel rail. Not sure if this is the perfect fix but it worked for me.

Here's a pic:

GN1978