When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wow! That's a lot of wiring. Your car is remarkably clean, but has an absolute mess of wiring. I see twisted bare wires laying around, and those splices you don't like. I can see why you're in a rush to fix it all!
You shouldn't need to pull the armrest to get the shifter console out, but if you do, this image might help. The armrest is held in with two bolts on two offset tabs at the back, and connects to the shifter console with two more screws at the front (these are likely to be broken on the console).
Awesome...yup 28000 one owner thank you for help...it started!,!!!only issue is horn still goes off like an alarm on off on off...what a pita putting that delicate wiring into the gauges...speedometer and tach lens next..anyone thoughts on horn alarm? I did push close the hood to see ifthay was it....anyway heres the pile..
My father taught me long ago that if you have to splice into a splice, you need to run new wiring. While this might not be the most attractive option to you they do sell new wiring harnesses at Lectric limited and you can replace all that splicing and make shift wiring with original should you want to take that project on. I'm simply amazed at this photo and have never seen so many connectors used. Wow. Good luck on your project.
David
My father taught me long ago that if you have to splice into a splice, you need to run new wiring. While this might not be the most attractive option to you they do sell new wiring harnesses at Lectric limited and you can replace all that splicing and make shift wiring with original should you want to take that project on. I'm simply amazed at this photo and have never seen so many connectors used. Wow. Good luck on your project.
David
Agreed. I did it to my '74, replacing the entire dash harness, because it was just as bad, if not worse than that. While replacing a dash harness is a lot of work, it beats having continuous electrical problems for years to come and even and up to a fire. Ask me how I know....
Hi, to be honest when all said and done all that wiring is gone...where the tapped into oem harness was only 3 spots..i bought and used electrical liquid tape to waterproof. Hooked up tach filter bit still does not work bur key on has it jump below 0...even without filter.Horn alarm still goes off but pulled orange wire and figured I don’t have a horn but i do?? So all in all very minor intrusion to oem, one hole on firewall i am trying to figure out next...three spots of liquid electrical tape to protect where they pinched... and it starts!cleaned up and drying..very happy so far..I couldn’t see the speedometer or tach...took off they put silver window tint taped behind it!, looks new nowthanks for suggestions and advice..
Check out the burn from the cat...
Interior cleaned slides lubed, two examples of liquid electrical tape..no cuts just those pinch connectors
i did have speaker wires butchered under console but used butt connectors
Wow, good job pulling the extraneous crap out of your C3! I'd like to see whole photos of the C3, when you're done.
Late 79 Oyster interior? Very nice. I s'pose with so few miles, a PO had plenty of time to mess around with the electrical. Good job ripping out that rat's nest.
Pics request..sorry rainy day cleaning and geting spate keys made courtesy lights going over my NEW aim manual from willcox
guy added flames when got it and a horriffic head shot on hood for his business hair salon and apparently on the back the words on fire... lol...it has such a great corny 80’s story
i wet sanded face off of flames..and will fill in later but kinda looks burned through flames...
You may have some life left. Try the adjustment out and see how much play you get in the pedal. 3-2 shift problems have nothing to do with the clutch, so much as the adjusting the shifter rods. You have to align all three. See this thread:
As far as electrical, you're going to need at the minimum, the Factory Service manual for your year C3 and a good aftermarket wiring diagram (the kind that are printed on laminated paper, are huge and have colored lines for all the wires). You should have some experience or be willing to learn multimeter use and if you're going to really get into it, a Power Probe III electrical diagnostic tool and a willingness to learn basic circuitry and how it applies to cars. You definitely have after-the-fact wiring and you're either going to have to run it all down yourself, or pay someone to do it (not exactly the cheap way to go).
@F22 you were spot on..thank you.. Motor cleaning next..lacquer buffs out great!
adjusted clutch further from. About 3/4 inch where dealer put it to 1.5 inches according to my aim pdf. And ot looks about 4/10 inch between bolts from touching bearing..clutch feels great and plenty of adjustment left as it adjusts up the rod not to the end... they were Thinking backwards.. i think lots of life feels dead middle, the noise i hear is the spring tensioning the clutch back stretching...i am happy..great test run..
of course a few more items next, the brake light coms on like the e break light and wont shut off.. car rolls just fine no drag..assume needs adjustment, when my console light comes next week....tear into it again.
car buffed..forgot what buffing lacquer was like with no clear...one wheel polished..
i did check my ac which doesnt work..there is still pressure in the system just low..i bled about 10 seconds to besure not fluke..maybe some r12 gauges? Try some ebay r12.. does anyone still do r12?
well do i start a threadfor advice new or can i add it here for alarm. I have contributed to honda ridgeline forum for years and the value of these forums and everyones help
here is threaded clutch.lookslike i may have some life left?
You can turn off the factory alarm by turning the key in the drivers door to unlock the door. That is if it has the factory alarm in it like an '80 and beyond.
you mentioned noise goes away when stepping on the clutch and 3-2 shift problems. the noise is trans spinning in neutral. step on clutch and throw out bearing spins and trans stops. check oil level in your trans. every tool you will need to do any job on this car costs less than the shop will charge to do the job. and you will still have the tools. Hell, a 1700 buck clutch job will buy you a quick jack.t his is not a drive-to-work car. did you buy this car so you could pay shops tons of money to fix it up?
You can turn off the factory alarm by turning the key in the drivers door to unlock the door. That is if it has the factory alarm in it like an '80 and beyond.
I wondered when i was testing the key in drivers door i heard a click or something under dash every time i clicked to left..i thought it would lock it..i shall rehook it back up and see...thank you
My shop manual came today!
you mentioned noise goes away when stepping on the clutch and 3-2 shift problems. the noise is trans spinning in neutral. step on clutch and throw out bearing spins and trans stops. check oil level in your trans. every tool you will need to do any job on this car costs less than the shop will charge to do the job. and you will still have the tools. Hell, a 1700 buck clutch job will buy you a quick jack.t his is not a drive-to-work car. did you buy this car so you could pay shops tons of money to fix it up?
Hi yup clutch seems ok now. I never would have let dealer replace...and quite frankly disapointed in the clutch push and lack of knowledge...worse..im going to have to jack it up and check tranny fluid, actually replace it...because i dont know if they checked...yes sometimes 3-2 or 2-3 harder to push in sometimes no issue at all...
pit 50 miles on it before rain...temp solid..
Hi yup clutch seems ok now. I never would have let dealer replace...and quite frankly disapointed in the clutch push and lack of knowledge...worse..im going to have to jack it up and check tranny fluid, actually replace it...because i dont know if they checked...yes sometimes 3-2 or 2-3 harder to push in sometimes no issue at all...
pit 50 miles on it before rain...temp solid..
thank you
I'd take it to a good transmission shop, that can put fresh 90w in your four speed trans. Then they can do the job of getting rid of it too, plus they have the hose, with the hook, that makes it a lot easier to put it in, than what you could do under the car. Others here, might suggest doing it yourself, but I hate the smell of 90w. I think you have to align the shifter rods. Take a look at the link. And also, I replaced my factory shifter with a Hurst Shifter, it wasn't cheap ($600), but even after replacing all the rods and linkages on my factory shifter, it still shifted like a loose... (well, we'll leave that last part out.)
06-14-2019, 06:31 PM
Late 79 Oyster interior? Very nice. I s'pose with so few miles, a PO had plenty of time to mess around with the electrical. Good job ripping out that rat's nest.
