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Help me through this ok? The striker pins in my C-3 have worn to the extent the bushings spin. So I went through a number of suppliers and noticed almost all look the same. But none looked exactly like the ones in my C3.
The biggest difference is mine have a tork head and a slightly convex mounting washer. The offered ones all have a flat washer and an allen head. However, they are sold as "fits 67 to 81 Corvette" .
So to mount them I took the advice of others here and blue taped around the 4 sides of the washer on the door post before removing the old one.
After setting the new one into the marked area I slowly tested closing the door and was met with a 'clunk' , and no latching. I added the second washer that was on the first striker and once again: 'clunk'!
The one big difference I see now is the new striker is at least a 1/4 inch shorter . I am reluctant to add even another shim washer. The provider has no answer but offered a return and I am grateful but I wanted to ask you'all first .
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Ed.....(Redbird)
I replaced mine with a stainless steel set from Totally Stainless in Pa. Didn't have any issues with theirs, but not the original style. The stud looks long enough to support an additional washer/shim
I consider the old c3 striker bolts to be short . That being said, what I saw for sale on most sites were -the only short bolts were Allen head and all the torx head bolts were long.
I bought a long torx head and it worked the same as my old short one that used one washer.
I'm not using that long torx head if you want to try it out.
Thanks Barry Ill get back to you on that gracious offer...
yup, I tried the latch open. In fact I removed the new striker and replaced it with theold one a couple times and each time the old one worked fine.
I will try switching washers. The old one does not come off (easy) but I did not try forcing it.
I did already try adding an extra washer and that did not help.
I just noticed (with the drivers seat out) I can peer right into the pin area. In the morning Ill try again and try some close up photos.
BTW.... It is 117 degrees in the hangar (my garage/shop) right now. Whew
Also....before you install the new striker....hold it and press it into the door latch to see if it engages correctly so that the latch locks around it, and also the striker has some "fore & aft play while locked in place.
And as others said...make sure the latch is in the open position before engaging the striker by hand.
Just replaced mine on a 68 a few months ago. Bolt length is 1 1/8 inches and has an approx. 1/8 inch curved washer for a total of 1 1/4 inches from car body. Did not have an issue with the doors when they were put back in the exact same place as the old ones. You can see where the door latch is striking the bolt in the picture. Bought from Ecklers.
Edit: Bolt is Allen head type. Yours looks too short in the picture.
Redvette2
Last edited by Redvette2; 07-03-2019 at 12:02 PM.
Reason: Added picture and more info.
Well guys, thanks for all the input and concern. My biggest fear was that I'd close the door and not be able to open it again. But it looks like the Shorter length of the striker pin is the big bug-a-boo.
I took your advice and removed the old tapered convex washer from the old striker pin,. Cleaned it up and mounted it on the new pin, and then put the new flat threaded washer onto the new pin, and finally the old flat spacer washer. It worked!
Actually it looks like it could even be extended further but this works and the doors close now like a bank vault.
If I were at a 'show-car' stage I would want a neater more accurate original look but for now I am happy with what we got.
THANK YOU ALL!
Last edited by Redbirdman; 07-03-2019 at 07:19 PM.
Yahoo. Likely some other variables possible as well. How straight the door is hung on the hinges and how much of a gap between the body and the door at the striker location. Also how the latching mechanism in the door itself is centered in its opening. When I had my tires put on they opened all the doors (and hood) when they put it on the lift due to possible frame flexing and any resultant door damage!
If they don't look 'purty', just use a powered wire brush to re-finish the old ones. To get that new one to work, you would have to fabricate a 1/8" thick spacer (same as the pin diameter) to install prior to the large washer....or find a stainless tube with the correct ID and OD sizes and cut off 1/8" to use as a spacer. Lotta trouble to take on because the aftermarket part is WRONG.
07-02-2019, 09:17 PM
Anyone replaced C3 door striker pins?
