Hi All, my winter covid projects are removing and rebuilding the rear suspension, diff, etc. and cleaning stuff up after 52+ years - and replacing all the brakes/brake lines. So far I have all the rear brakes and lines, shocks, shock mounts, spring, control arms, rear stabilizer, etc. removed. I have the trailing arms ready to remove but (and there's always a 'but' with our C3s ), one of the trailing arm bolts is just plain stuck - the other was no problem. The nut came off the other no problem, but the bolt won't budge. I've soaked in WD, wiggled the arm, driven against the exposed end of the bolt until it's starting to flatten out, etc. I have a few more tricks to try, but if they don't work it's sawsall time. A couple of questions for my forum friends:
* The shims move around, but I believe in '68 (and maybe '69?) the shims are bolted through the control arm bolt and aren't slotted so they can slip out. Is this correct?
* If the above is correct, and I end up using Mr Sawsall, do I just find a spot between the shims and cut?
* If the shims for '68 are not slotted, I'm considering drilling two holes and setting it up like later years with a long cotter pin so the alignment shop (and I) have a bit easier time of it going back together. Thoughts?

I have some good bi-metal Lenox blades being delivered tomorrow if I have to cut. Any other ideas or tips?

Hope you are all well and enjoying driving (south) or fixing (north). Thanks, Paul

 

The shims are not slotted the bolt goes through them

 

I have worked for Lenox for 36 years now. Good choice on the blades. A little lube will really help. Also if your machine has the ability to keep the speed slower that will help. Most people grab the saw and run as fast as they can and push the he$$ out of it. If the teeth start glowing you are toast. Slow and steady gets the job done. You should always be removing metal, if you start rubbing it work hardens and you are toast. Good luck. The shims are mild the bolt is hardened.

 

I have never used Lenox blades. I used a 12" Diablo carbide blades on a slow speed with plenty of oil to keep things cool. Just cut through on either side of the bushing. When reinstalling, I used slotted stainless steel shims on my 66 and 68. I drilled 1/8" holes on either side of the frame and used heavy duty zip ties to hold the shims in place. You could also use the long carter pin designed for this purpose. Good luck. Jerry

 

 

I use a side-grinder with a 7" diameter by 1/16" thick circular cut-off wheel to cut the bolt through on both sides of the T.A. bushing.......
MUCH easier and faster...then I drive out remaining pieces of bolt with a metal blunt-nose punch once the T.A. is removed.

A couple shims will be damaged, but I used new slotted shims/cotter pins with reinstallation/alignment.

 

I did drill the holes and use forked shims with cotter pins. As I recall, I used a long bit for the outside holes and a 90 degree drill with a cut off short bit for the inside holes. The guy that did my alignment was very excited.

 

First of all, thanks for the great ideas - some really creative ones.

My last 'rabbit out of the hat' worked last night. I got my air chisel out (haven't used it in 25 years because I've been mostly modding our new vehicles until I decided to come back to the older cars ), picked a pointed and v-shaped head, and used it to try and get under the washer on the inside of the bolt head. Worked it for a bit, then put a wrench on it to see if it would at least turn some and it did. Then, with some persuasion from a long 1/2 inch ratchet extension and a 4 lb hammer, drove the bolt in (used a long standard screwdriver to drive it past the shims). Took the outside shims out, and my son will help me take them off tonight.

Appreciate the input and good ideas. We keep sharing, and learning from each other. Best, Paul