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If my battery cable issue wasn't enough, my car has also developed a pretty bad negative camber on the drivers side. While I had it on the rack I was looking at the back tire, and U-joint is shot. It looks like a retainer pin came out and the cap fell off.
Its pretty loose in their.
Can I just order a Ujoint (I hear good things about Spicer) or do I need to order retaining pins, new caps, etc?
How big of a job is this? Can I do it directly or do I need to remove the spring and everything?
And I guess it isn't really driveable? I only ask, because my kid asked me about a car show at his school on Thursday, but its about 15 miles away.
It is not necessarily a hard job if you are mechanically inclined but there are some general guidelines to follow.
1) The flange is fairly easily bent so you need to support it while removing the joint. Search this forum for other posts on this common job.
2) The circlip ring channels can be damaged if you are not careful. Typically, a misplaced hammer blow (sometimes in frustration) can inflict some undesired geometric modification.
3) Soaking (immersion) of the flange/joint/flange in CLR or penetrating oil can make the disassembly a lot easier. Optionally, spray with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil liberally and often for a couple of days may make your life easier.
4). Spicer non-greaseables are the “go-to” item. The non-greaseables are a lot stronger than those with zerks and are typically good for 50k miles +/-. I buy mine from Denny’s Driveshaft.
5) The replacement joints will come with several thickness circlips. You likely will need to “fit” (read sand) down some of the clips so they lie completely flat against the caps. Too many time I see the end of the clip sticking up in the air, indicating there is outward pressure being applied from the joint.
I would plan on replacing all 4 joints, certainly both on the one shaft at a minimum. Check your driveshaft joints as well for condition while you are at it.
Heed the warning about using a backer tool when replacing the outboard joints. If you don't want to replace the joints yourself, take them out and drop them off at a shop that does four wheel drive vehicles or a truck driveshaft shop. Most can turn them around in a day. I used a truck shop and got them back the same day blasted and painted. The same shop did the drive shaft on my SS Chevelle while I waited. Jerry
Remove the half shaft and take it there for repair. Heed what everyone said about the flange because it's easy to bend, make sure the shop is aware of this.
If my battery cable issue wasn't enough, my car has also developed a pretty bad negative camber on the drivers side. While I had it on the rack I was looking at the back tire, and U-joint is shot. It looks like a retainer pin came out and the cap fell off.
Its pretty loose in their.
Can I just order a Ujoint (I hear good things about Spicer) or do I need to order retaining pins, new caps, etc?
How big of a job is this? Can I do it directly or do I need to remove the spring and everything?
And I guess it isn't really driveable? I only ask, because my kid asked me about a car show at his school on Thursday, but its about 15 miles away.
Thanks!
great advice below and generous offers.. as tampa says use a backer..
if helpful here is my replacement job
theres no way I would drive that car spicer is top of the line ujoints
I knew that really. I wanted to be there for my kid though.
Originally Posted by 69L88
Spicer 1350s NON-GREASABLE.
It is not necessarily a hard job if you are mechanically inclined but there are some general guidelines to follow.
1) The flange is fairly easily bent so you need to support it while removing the joint. Search this forum for other posts on this common job.
2) The circlip ring channels can be damaged if you are not careful. Typically, a misplaced hammer blow (sometimes in frustration) can inflict some undesired geometric modification.
3) Soaking (immersion) of the flange/joint/flange in CLR or penetrating oil can make the disassembly a lot easier. Optionally, spray with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil liberally and often for a couple of days may make your life easier.
4). Spicer non-greaseables are the “go-to” item. The non-greaseables are a lot stronger than those with zerks and are typically good for 50k miles +/-. I buy mine from Denny’s Driveshaft.
5) The replacement joints will come with several thickness circlips. You likely will need to “fit” (read sand) down some of the clips so they lie completely flat against the caps. Too many time I see the end of the clip sticking up in the air, indicating there is outward pressure being applied from the joint.
I would plan on replacing all 4 joints, certainly both on the one shaft at a minimum. Check your driveshaft joints as well for condition while you are at it.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm really worried about the driver's side half-shaft.
Originally Posted by Andy Tuttle
Zealot - is your car an automatic or a stick? I mayy have the Spicer U-joints you need if it is an auto.
I'll send you a PM.
Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
Heed the warning about using a backer tool when replacing the outboard joints. If you don't want to replace the joints yourself, take them out and drop them off at a shop that does four wheel drive vehicles or a truck driveshaft shop. Most can turn them around in a day. I used a truck shop and got them back the same day blasted and painted. The same shop did the drive shaft on my SS Chevelle while I waited. Jerry
I may do that. I kinda want to do it myself though. I've pretty much missed the Thursday date for the show at this point anyway.
Originally Posted by Mr D.
26 miles from your location
Drive Train Specialists
17050 S I-35 Frontage Rd Building 2
Buda, TX 78610
Remove the half shaft and take it there for repair. Heed what everyone said about the flange because it's easy to bend, make sure the shop is aware of this.
I'll call them a bit later. I'll have to see what they charge. Thanks for looking it up.
Originally Posted by interpon
great advice below and generous offers.. as tampa says use a backer..
if helpful here is my replacement job
Unless you are a fairly competent mechanic, replacing that u joint without bending the outer flange will be very challenging. Do you have a press? You're better off taking both half shafts out and bringing them to a shop, like Mr D suggested, or contact Fort Wayne Clutch and buy 2 new half shafts with new flanges and Spicer u joints installed. Not very expensive and they work well. I have them in my 77.
Unless you are a fairly competent mechanic, replacing that u joint without bending the outer flange will be very challenging. Do you have a press? You're better off taking both half shafts out and bringing them to a shop, like Mr D suggested, or contact Fort Wayne Clutch and buy 2 new half shafts with new flanges and Spicer u joints installed. Not very expensive and they work well. I have them in my 77.
Well, I wouldn't say I'm incompetent, just inexperienced.
Even buying a 20T harbor freight press it looks like I'm about $470 dollars in parts. Kinda worried about the joint that was riding in the half-shaft, but if thats ok, I should be good. I'll check into the other options though. Thanks for the tip about Fort Wayne Clutch!
A question about U joint replacement
