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I know this has been brought up before, so I wanted to get some input from more experienced people here. Long story short, I need to replace the fuel lines, both feed and return line in my 69. Someone along the way apparently cut the return line near the passenger door and
just crimped it off and the feed line has several rubber hose splices in it, so I don't feel comfortable driving around that way. I've heard you can replace the line with much difficulty if you raise the body off the frame 6-8 inches on the passenger side. I would like to use stock (one piece) lines if possible. So one issue is that I have never raised the body off the frame on one side - how hard a job is that and does anyone have any pics or tips on this. The second question is whether anyone has been able to replace the fuel lines in this manner. Not too high on putting fittings and piecing the job, but I could live with that if that is the only way possible. Thanks in advance for any info...
If this is not the kind of chassis work you have done before, I would suggest that you take a 'pass' on separating the body from the frame and just use and extra joint or two in order to repair the fuel lines. You can use double flare joints and fittings and get the job done WAY faster than pulling the body bolts.
If this is not the kind of chassis work you have done before, I would suggest that you take a 'pass' on separating the body from the frame and just use and extra joint or two in order to repair the fuel lines. You can use double flare joints and fittings and get the job done WAY faster than pulling the body bolts.
71, are you thinking separation would be an issue because of the frame to body mounts? The car appears to have been off in the past 10 years or so since those mounts and the bolts are in very good shape.
You wanto to check out Doorgunner's thread. He raised his '68 and changed fuel lines and has alot of info on it. Check his table of contents on page 1 of the thread.
You wanto to check out Doorgunner's thread. He raised his '68 and changed fuel lines and has alot of info on it. Check his table of contents on page 1 of the thread.
I cheated.....I did it the way 7T1vette advised....and also used wooden blocks to replace rusted-out body mounts. IF you had to repair several different things/repair rusted-thru areas, raising the body 6" to 8" would be helpful.
I cheated.....I did it the way 7T1vette advised....and also used wooden blocks to replace rusted-out body mounts. IF you had to repair several different things/repair rusted-thru areas, raising the body 6" to 8" would be helpful.
Well if I can't do it in one piece, I suppose having in in 2 would not be so bad. Assuming the body mounts wouldn't be too bad an issue (it appears mine were replaced within the past 10 years or so), how difficult a proposition is it to raise the body 6-8" on one side?
Well if I can't do it in one piece, I suppose having in in 2 would not be so bad. Assuming the body mounts wouldn't be too bad an issue (it appears mine were replaced within the past 10 years or so), how difficult a proposition is it to raise the body 6-8" on one side?
Not quite as bad as raising it on both sides. Things have to be loosened on both sides to tilt the body enough, though.
THE GOOD NEWS IS.....
you get alot faster each time you raise the body
P.M. Sent
Last edited by doorgunner; Oct 17, 2021 at 01:32 AM.
Well if I can't do it in one piece, I suppose having in in 2 would not be so bad. Assuming the body mounts wouldn't be too bad an issue (it appears mine were replaced within the past 10 years or so), how difficult a proposition is it to raise the body 6-8" on one side?
no clue how much difference in 79 to 69 but i did not lift body. Nicop lines and a connection or 2..still leak free..
Save your old ones for bending like oem and it gets you pretty close.