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They are all a pain but the inside one is the worst (I'm guessing it's the one that just goes from the crank to the water-pump and that's all) You pretty much need to loosen off the waterpump pulley (and fan...) to get that bolt on since there's no slack adjustment anywhere for it.
But totally doable just a pain to get in there with the fan and shroud and everything in the way.
Loosening the back pivot screw on the power steering pump bracket isn't a picnic either...
Do you have A/C with the idler pulley on the block? If so, that closest belt to the block is a lot easier to change than the 454s without A/C. If no A/C you have a pretty good workout getting it to stretch onto the two fixed pulleys. Otherwise all three belts are pretty simple with just 1/2" &/or 9/16" sockets and wrenches.
Do you have A/C with the idler pulley on the block? If so, that closest belt to the block is a lot easier to change than the 454s without A/C. If no A/C you have a pretty good workout getting it to stretch onto the two fixed pulleys. Otherwise all three belts are pretty simple with just 1/2" &/or 9/16" sockets and wrenches.
I do have A/C. I snipped that belt off just a few minutes ago, multiple cracks.
The fact that I was able to coast into my driveway with belts like these after a 50 mile drive is unfathomable.
Here is what I have to work with.
So if I understand correctly, the belt that broke (inner) is P/S pump, and water pump. 2nd is alternator belt and 3rd is A/C belt?
Believe it or not, just a couple months ago, I removed what I believe to be the original main crank/water pump belt on my '67's 427. Very faded and you could see the top surface's fabric weave fraying on the edges but it lasted 60,000 miles over 50 years!
1st groove belt closest to the engine should only run between the crankshaft and the water pump. The idler acts on this belt.
2nd groove belt should be to power steering pump closest to the pump. The second groove of the PS goes to the alternator.
3rd groove belt (furthest from the engine) is the A/C belt.
Here's the assembly manual diagram for '72, which I believe is the same for '71:
Last edited by barkingrats; Jun 22, 2022 at 11:05 PM.
Which ever belt you purchase, compare the width to the old one "back-to-back".
It seems ever since the local parts stores switched to the metric system, "some" belts tend to run slightly narrower.
This does two things. It makes the belt run lower in the pulley where its more likely to slip. The belt gets most of its "traction" on the sides of the belt / pulley not the bottom of the belt / pulley.
And, if the belt runs lower in the pulley, it makes the belt slightly longer also. Not an issue with A/C but can be with the P.S. or the ALT bracket maxed out.
Trying to find the belts locally so I don't have to have them shipped in but the ones the local part stores
list seem to be slightly off from the chart above.
For instance the PS pump shows a 36" belt, local part store lists it in stupid milometers and it's shown as 935 mm which is 36.8 inches, or .8 longer.
I gotta say I hate buying belts! The local stores only look at car and what the belt is supposed to drive and try to convince me that that's the only one. In reality, a belt of a certain side angle and top width comes in different increments of length (I believe 1/2" or 1"). If you have an old belt, take that with you and see if you can get one with that circumference and one size shorter. I've had the best success at NAPA where they have been willing to work with me on that. Then return the one you don't need once you fit it and see how much adjustment you have.
Old school belts had standardized nomenclature to the side angles and profiles which seems to have largely gone by the wayside at the parts stores. It sure seemed easier back then, "I need a 3V belt 30" long."
This Gates doc may help: https://www.gates.com/content/dam/ga...eltidchart.pdf
(I can't seem to locate the section specs for our car belts online but know I've seen them in the past.)
And this:
There are three common type of V-belts, and they are classified by their dimensions:
1) Classical V-Belt - Classified by its dimensions ranging from A to E
The classical V-Belt is the most common of all V-Belt types, and it has been in existence even before other V-Belt types. This type of V-Belt has a broad scope of usage in different areas such as Agriculture, Industrial Machinery, ventilation etc. and this is due to the fact that it covers a load range from 1 horsepower to 500 horsepower. There is no doubt that the Narrow Wedge is more efficient than the classical V-Belt; however, they work seamlessly with higher bearing loads and have a high tolerance for adverse operating conditions.
2) Narrow Wedge - Classified by its dimensions ranging from 3V, 5V, and 8V
This type of V-Belt is more efficient than the Classical type as they have the most significant degree possible for the distribution of force and load transfer, which is the main advantage over the Classical type. Narrow Wedge is able to transmit three times the Horsepower a classical V-Belt would in the same drive space; they are very suitable for drives at high speed and its well-known for its sturdy, compact size. Unlike the classical V-Belt, Narrow Wedge can handle drives from 1 horsepower to 1,000 horsepower.
3) Fractional Horsepower - Classified by its dimensions ranging from 2L, 3L, 4L, 5L.
Unlike the two mentioned types of V-Belts, the Fractional Horsepower is different in operation as it is only designed for light loads and is often used as a single belt on drives that run at one Horsepower or even less. This type of belt is what you see in domestic machines popular in household equipment such as washing machines, fans, and refrigerators. Fractional Horsepower can never be used on any heavy-duty industrial machinery even if it fits perfectly well.
Even though the L series is not intended for autos, in the past I've been forced to use a 3L on an alternator due to the available selection of lengths and it worked just fine and lasted until I went with the restoration belt from Quanta.
When I was looking at NAPA, they also list appropriate belts at abut $6, so it's probably fine. The thing about the big blocks is that there is at least one other belt that connects the crank and water pump - like in our case the steering pump - so that if the primary belt breaks you still have another turning the water pump. (My '72 has the same engine accessories running as you do.)
Thanks for the like to the vbeltguys - I wasn't aware of them. Please do let the forum know of any positives or negatives dealing with them or their products.
Then use an old belt as a strap wrench by placing it on the WP pulley and cinching the remainder to grip the pulley. You could also try bracing a piece of wood between one of the pulley bolts and the bottom cross member. Lastly, this may be a situation where an impact wrench could come in handy.
It’s tougher with no belt in place, but I use a long screwdriver to act as wedge between two of the fan pulley bolt heads. I hold the screwdriver with one hand and the wrench with the other on the bolts that aren’t blocked by the screwdriver. You have to make sure you break them all loose before removing any of them.
It’s tougher with no belt in place, but I use a long screwdriver to act as wedge between two of the fan pulley bolt heads. I hold the screwdriver with one hand and the wrench with the other on the bolts that aren’t blocked by the screwdriver. You have to make sure you break them all loose before removing any of them.
Great tip, worked like a charm
So now I have sized up the belts and have the water pump and power steering belts in their respective pulleys.
I can do the Alt and AC after I get the water pump pulley back on.
Any tips on how to get it back up over the shaft with the new belts on?
My strength isn’t cutting it, I’m getting old and weak
71 Belt replacement
