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Wow. I have been lectured on this forum (and this thread) about NOT being aggressive with my car, i.e. buying high performance parts, but not using them to their fullest extent.......and the OP has shown exactly WHY I don't. As I have stated, I will spend lots of money on performance parts,....but will still treat the car with respect, and not beat the crap out of it. I can drive, and accelerate, agressively.....but smoothly. On my cars, my motorcycles, and the airplanes I fly are treated well......and they reward me well. Slamming the pedal to the floor and dropping the clutch is going to break something.......NOT on my cars, cause that will never happen. The few times I have really pushed it hard,.....I feel bad about it. Thats me. I see people hammering on equipment all the time,.....and they are surprised when they break.....LOL. Frankly......I don't even see the point in beating on the car. I don't get my satisfaction out of my cars and motorcycles as wannabe drag racers.
Wow. I have been lectured on this forum (and this thread) about NOT being aggressive with my car, i.e. buying high performance parts, but not using them to their fullest extent.......and the OP has shown exactly WHY I don't. As I have stated, I will spend lots of money on performance parts,....but will still treat the car with respect, and not beat the crap out of it. I can drive, and accelerate, agressively.....but smoothly. On my cars, my motorcycles, and the airplanes I fly are treated well......and they reward me well. Slamming the pedal to the floor and dropping the clutch is going to break something.......NOT on my cars, cause that will never happen. The few times I have really pushed it hard,.....I feel bad about it. Thats me. I see people hammering on equipment all the time,.....and they are surprised when they break.....LOL. Frankly......I don't even see the point in beating on the car. I don't get my satisfaction out of my cars and motorcycles as wannabe drag racers.
I understand what you mean the car has been built up over the years, fist by my father and now by me. Everything stock had held up to 600hp for 25 years! I recently rebuilt it and it came out at 650hp.... What happened from as far as I can tell is the driver side motor mount broke, twisting the drive train, this breaking the trans in half after that the rear followed.... Definitely going with a 6 link in the future.
Why go with a 6 link just run some heavy duty 31 spline stub axels chrome oly half shafts and a 12 bolt rear end and then top it off with a t56 or a 5 speed rated at 600 lbs .
Yep... Let a little air out of the tire they said.... it'll hook up better they said.... goodbye trans and goodbye rear end
Yup, seen it many times. Put an engine in a car that is double the power level the car is designed for, use the car that is designed as a road course car as a drag car or just abuse it and it turns into instant junk with the last dead hook or hard shift.
You have what appears to be a 68 or 69. The differentials in the 68 were worse than the 69's that were worse than the 72-79's, which aren't prefect since they had bad axles, ring gear bolts, and clutches. I don't even touch on the 80-82's since that engine would destroy the smaller parts in them very easily. There was no perfect stock differential made for a corvette between 1963-1982, they all had one or more issues. The only good ones are those that are built using the best parts and procedures and given enough abuse anything will break- 10 bolts,12 bolt, 9", aftermarket 9" IRS, so called racing diff's, all of them will break given enough power and abuse. We never thought 600hp would be commonplace back in the day of street 350-450hp cars.
The trans appears to be Super T10? cast iron cover and fine spline input, not a Muncie. They were both good street driver trans but rated at about 350 ft/lb of torque before the crack like an egg.
I doubt the motor mount caused the issue, the parts were already on their way to the junkyard, they just needed the final push. The cross shaft is bent, the spiders are 18's, the case was rough and sharp, the axles 17's.
The problem with "they" is "they" don't pay the bills, probably never built a diff or trans, and get all their info from online hearsay. "they" will tell you a 6 link will solve your problem it would not have stopped the carnage shown. "They" will say to use one of the Racers diff's because the websites are slick and most looking at them have no clue at what they're looking at. Some of "them" are outright conmen, some of "them" copied some of Tom's parts claiming they are better but failing to see the obvious flaw, and then "they" suck in all the cash they can when guys blow up their cars. I have plenty of pictures of the work of "them"
Who is "them"? I know, do you?
Some of "them" take your money up front, and you never hear from "Them" again. Some of "Them" tell you they will build it like I do only for a lot less, then "they" take your money and if you get something it may be nothing like what you paid for.
Yes sir, "They" and "Them" will tell you everything you want to hear while talking you into something you don't know about and will spend a lot on. I have seen "them" for many years in this hobby, 45 for me to date.
Good luck.
I would keep the red wagon, we had one of those 60 years ago.
Yup, seen it many times. Put an engine in a car that is double the power level the car is designed for, use the car that is designed as a road course car as a drag car or just abuse it and it turns into instant junk with the last dead hook or hard shift.
You have what appears to be a 68 or 69. The differentials in the 68 were worse than the 69's that were worse than the 72-79's, which aren't prefect since they had bad axles, ring gear bolts, and clutches. I don't even touch on the 80-82's since that engine would destroy the smaller parts in them very easily. There was no perfect stock differential made for a corvette between 1963-1982, they all had one or more issues. The only good ones are those that are built using the best parts and procedures and given enough abuse anything will break- 10 bolts,12 bolt, 9", aftermarket 9" IRS, so called racing diff's, all of them will break given enough power and abuse. We never thought 600hp would be commonplace back in the day of street 350-450hp cars.
The trans appears to be Super T10? cast iron cover and fine spline input, not a Muncie. They were both good street driver trans but rated at about 350 ft/lb of torque before the crack like an egg.
I doubt the motor mount caused the issue, the parts were already on their way to the junkyard, they just needed the final push. The cross shaft is bent, the spiders are 18's, the case was rough and sharp, the axles 17's.
The problem with "they" is "they" don't pay the bills, probably never built a diff or trans, and get all their info from online hearsay. "they" will tell you a 6 link will solve your problem it would not have stopped the carnage shown. "They" will say to use one of the Racers diff's because the websites are slick and most looking at them have no clue at what they're looking at. Some of "them" are outright conmen, some of "them" copied some of Tom's parts claiming they are better but failing to see the obvious flaw, and then "they" suck in all the cash they can when guys blow up their cars. I have plenty of pictures of the work of "them"
Who is "them"? I know, do you?
Some of "them" take your money up front, and you never hear from "Them" again. Some of "Them" tell you they will build it like I do only for a lot less, then "they" take your money and if you get something it may be nothing like what you paid for.
Yes sir, "They" and "Them" will tell you everything you want to hear while talking you into something you don't know about and will spend a lot on. I have seen "them" for many years in this hobby, 45 for me to date.
Good luck.
I would keep the red wagon, we had one of those 60 years ago.
Good eyes. Yep it's a super T-10, I built it myself. Came out of a 700hp 77 Camaro Z28, I wouldn't exactly say it's twice the ponies...The rear I built myself. Ive touched every nut and bolt on the car! It's a 68 l89. Yes I have the original motor/heads and m21 trans, tank sticker window sticker etc. It was bought by the original owner (my dad) for the purpose of drag racing. It's been drag raced for 54 years. Has lots of Baldwin motion parts...I'm using it the way it's always been used....boy some Corvette guys sure are touchy.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Were the motor mounts solid or the sandwiched interlocked rubber bushed ones....do you have pics of whats left of those? I drag race mine but I dont let the air out of the rear tires so they dont hook as well as yours did obviously.
I bought mine to have as much fun as I can in it as you do...the only thing I havent done yet is bring it to Bonneville......
It got broke good
