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Was replacing rag joint & took upper column apart to address steering sloppiness- using an aftermarket rag joint, & after replacing the joint & after reassembling upper column (cleaned bearings, replaced missing ***** & new upper bearing race, cleaned & re-greased T&T spring, sector, etc), the steering shaft is too far in to afffix the lock plate- see pics below, I can't compress lock plate enough to get the retainer in place, needs a good 3/8-1/2 inch more to allow it to fit. I can't seem to push the steering shaft in enough, & just had to give up tonight after working on it all day.
Anyone else gone through this & if you championed it, how'd ya do it? New rag joint after removing all bolts to try to move steering shaft towards firewall So little clearance... A closer view... Notice how far up the lockplate is on shaft Closer look.... NOI WAY to get that C-clip on there! Reference points
You need to go rent the lock plate tool if you are not using it already. Do you have the tele rod inside the shaft tightly locked in position with a set screw? Can't see from the picture. Otherwise the tool will just pull the shaft out as you try to compress the lock plate.
Bill
Last edited by 69ttop502; Feb 23, 2023 at 09:51 PM.
Yes, I indeed have that tool, & issue is the shaft is so far in that the lock plate just bottoms out on the bearing housing (actually on the T/S switch) with the retainer slot too far in to be able to insert the retainer. Short of again taking apart the bearing housing, this morning I’m going to try taking out the T/S switch & trying to pull the shaft up with lock plate against the end of the housing… if that doesn’t work then I suppose I’m pulling the whole column & do this with it out of the car… was trying to avoid that at all costs…
Will be interested to know the problem. The shaft can only come up so far since the bearing race for the bottom bearing in the housing is part of the shaft. If it is up against the bearing, it can't come up any farther. Without the tele rod locked in place though, you won't be able to compress the lock plate and you didn't say if yours is.
Thanks, Bill… appreciate your interest & comments.
in pulling the column apart I’ve unearthed the issues from previous owners that cheaped this out. Won’t bore you with the details, let’s just say that unexpected welds & added set screws inside the shift tube & lock plate area made me stop & am sending it out for a professional rebuild. I think I’ve spent 10 hours so far on TRYING to get this acceptable but with all the trial & error that’ll be needed to get the shift tube & steering shaft lengths right, my times better spent on the other items to get this ready to sell this car!
I’ve never had a car fight me so much like this one… I have a garage outfitted for diagnosing & repairing most any car… professional scan tool, lift, smoke machine, etc… I think it was easier doing the clutch on my C5Z (have to detach & lower the drivetrain from bellhousing-back to do the job) than some of the mechanical jobs on this 73. My regret with this car is that I should’ve yanked the body off-frame & done it that way. This forum has, & continues to be, an absolute fountain of information from everyone out there…
Oh yea, the dreaded Bubba has been there then. Send it to Columns Galore in NY. Or better yet, drive it up as you are pretty close to them. They have rebuilt 4 columns for me, one of which I have for sale here so you can see in the pics the quality of their work. They have great feedback online, and were great to deal with! If you do, tell Rick, Bill Van Orman sent you!
Bill
Last edited by 69ttop502; Feb 25, 2023 at 09:29 AM.
'73 w/steering column reassembly problems
If you do, tell Rick, Bill Van Orman sent you!
