WTB: Chassis for 69
#2
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St. Jude Donor '10
I'm working on one now. What are you seeking? Restored, work in progress, fixer upper? Stock? Big block?
Last edited by AllC34Me; 03-15-2017 at 10:04 PM.
#3
#7
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '15- '16-'17-'18-'19, '21
Does it have a lot of rust and other pieces that need replacing?
You might be better off stripping yours down and having it straightened by a competent frame shop and then rebuild it yourself.
If you don't have a lot of money to spend, that would be the cheapest route.
Good luck....
Otherwise, look at David's work (Allvettes4me). He does excellent work and it has access to all the tools, materials and specialty shops to produce an excellent complete chassis.
Last edited by bmans vette; 03-16-2017 at 01:39 AM.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '10
So you are actually looking for just the frame and not the full rolling chassis. Got it.
I have worked with 1969, 1970, 1971 and have found them all to be easily substituted for one another on my cars. If you are not worried about numbers correct then you might locate a 70 or 71 frame someone is selling and save yourself some money.
The only way to know if a frame is straight and not bent or twisted is to have it blocked and measured which, unfortunately, costs money to perform. If someone is offering a frame for sale you should ask them to confirm it has been measured, who measured it, and was it straightened, welded, etc.
They are not hard to straighten by a competent frame shop and I agree with B-Man that straightening yours assures you it fits and may be the cheapest route for your budget. Also, my thought here, would be to seek a good welder to beef up the seems as long as you have the car off the frame. Stiffens the frame and makes is flex less which is what the big blocks can benefit from the most, again in my opinion. I did that on my 72 racer carrying a 496/565 big block.
Good luck with your search and best regards,
David Howard
AllVettes4Me
I have worked with 1969, 1970, 1971 and have found them all to be easily substituted for one another on my cars. If you are not worried about numbers correct then you might locate a 70 or 71 frame someone is selling and save yourself some money.
The only way to know if a frame is straight and not bent or twisted is to have it blocked and measured which, unfortunately, costs money to perform. If someone is offering a frame for sale you should ask them to confirm it has been measured, who measured it, and was it straightened, welded, etc.
They are not hard to straighten by a competent frame shop and I agree with B-Man that straightening yours assures you it fits and may be the cheapest route for your budget. Also, my thought here, would be to seek a good welder to beef up the seems as long as you have the car off the frame. Stiffens the frame and makes is flex less which is what the big blocks can benefit from the most, again in my opinion. I did that on my 72 racer carrying a 496/565 big block.
Good luck with your search and best regards,
David Howard
AllVettes4Me
Last edited by AllC34Me; 03-16-2017 at 07:04 AM.
#10
Thanks for the response, no I'm not tie down to 69 chassis would consider other years. Would getting mine fixed still be the cheapest way to go, your recommendation?
Thanks again
Thanks again
#11
#12
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I have an extra '69 rolling chassis that I bought for a project and most likely will not use. Haven't touched it and just taking up space now. Surface rust but otherwise seems solid. Not sure were you are in Maryland, but I'm in Virginia just over the line from Frederick. PM me if interested.
Jon
#13
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St. Jude Donor '10
How badly bent is your original frame? I can help you with a great shop if you want a good place to start. Martinsburg, WV, just off I-81. Let me know if I can help.
David
David