Manual to Power Brakes Conversion?
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Manual to Power Brakes Conversion?
I have manual brakes on my 72 coupe. I've been thinking about converting over to power brakes, and even obtained a vacuum booster, but was unable to find the rest of the hardware necessary to do the full conversion. Is there an affordable kit to convert to power brakes, and does it really make it worth it? I can lock up my brakes right now...so that isn't a problem. I was just curious if I could get better performing brakes.
thanks,
trw
thanks,
trw
#2
Melting Slicks
do you have plenty of pedal now?
an advantage of power brakes is the larger diameter piston in the master cylinder which would give you lockup with less pedal travel.
an advantage of power brakes is the larger diameter piston in the master cylinder which would give you lockup with less pedal travel.
#3
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Canberra AUSTRALIA
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I converted to vaccum power brakes. If you have power steering the least painful way is to install a Hydroboos sytem. Either homemade (ie from a diesel truck) or via a custom system built for our Vettes. Lots of people will chime in about the benefits but it can be expensive.
I used the factory booster. The parts are not expensive. Figure the booster reman plus a new Master Cylinder is $130 including the core charge. The brake lines (need two new) are about $30 from most of the vendors. You also need the different mount for the metal bar that pushs the brake switch when you push on the pedal. It is about $12 from Corvette America from memory.
There are three things that are a pain in the a$$ about installing the booster.
The first is drilling out the holes in the dash. Make a template of the new booster. Make sure the booster will not hit the hood when it is closed after you mount it. From memory the manual master cylinder studs mark the top holes for the booster.
The second is reaching the nuts that go onto the booster from inside. You can do this with lots of extensions and universal adaptors. Small childrens hands work also. The top left is the worst. Remove the seat to make room for your upside down torso.
The third item is setting up the new brake switch. Sometimes the pedal will be clsoer to the floor, other people had no problems here. You need to make sure the switch is not on until you press on the pedal.
It was painful while I installed it but it was worth the effort. For around $160 i got a lot more brakes. You could do the hydraboost for the same price with a lot less pain and time upside down if you can source the parts at a wrecking yard.
Good Luck.
I used the factory booster. The parts are not expensive. Figure the booster reman plus a new Master Cylinder is $130 including the core charge. The brake lines (need two new) are about $30 from most of the vendors. You also need the different mount for the metal bar that pushs the brake switch when you push on the pedal. It is about $12 from Corvette America from memory.
There are three things that are a pain in the a$$ about installing the booster.
The first is drilling out the holes in the dash. Make a template of the new booster. Make sure the booster will not hit the hood when it is closed after you mount it. From memory the manual master cylinder studs mark the top holes for the booster.
The second is reaching the nuts that go onto the booster from inside. You can do this with lots of extensions and universal adaptors. Small childrens hands work also. The top left is the worst. Remove the seat to make room for your upside down torso.
The third item is setting up the new brake switch. Sometimes the pedal will be clsoer to the floor, other people had no problems here. You need to make sure the switch is not on until you press on the pedal.
It was painful while I installed it but it was worth the effort. For around $160 i got a lot more brakes. You could do the hydraboost for the same price with a lot less pain and time upside down if you can source the parts at a wrecking yard.
Good Luck.