[700R4 Speedometer Calibration] – Changing the drive and driven gears
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
[700R4 Speedometer Calibration] – Changing the drive and driven gears
This job took me 1-1/2 hours to complete.
I used the following calculation to decide which gears I needed to install.
Put car on jack stands or lift.
Remove the speedometer cable and driven gear carrier.
A very small amount of transmission fluid will spill out upon removal of the carrier.
Remove drive shaft from transmission yoke.
Remove tail-shaft housing from transmission.
After removing the four bolts which secure the tail-shaft housing to the transmission case I found that the transmission cross-member had to be lowered a little so the housing could be removed from the car. I was able to do this without lowering the exhaust system.
Remove the drive gear from the shaft.
The drive gear was VERY tight on the shaft. To speed up removal, using a wood chisel, I split the old drive gear. This only required one firm hit.
Install new drive gear.
The new gear was just as tight as the old one. To make installation possible I boiled a cup of water in the microwave and then dropped the new drive gear in the hot water for a couple of minutes. This expanded the gear enough to quickly slide it over the shaft by hand.
(NOTE: The metal retainer clip is positioned on the shaft by one of two holes. Be sure that you select the same hole it came out of. I mistakenly selected the wrong hole thus causing my drive gear to not be centered with the driven gear. I didn’t realize this mistake until I had re-assembled everything.
I guess it’s close enough because my speedometer is working! Good thing because I really didn’t want to tear it all back apart again. )
[pic of gear on shaft]
I used the following calculation to decide which gears I needed to install.
Put car on jack stands or lift.
Remove the speedometer cable and driven gear carrier.
A very small amount of transmission fluid will spill out upon removal of the carrier.
Remove drive shaft from transmission yoke.
Remove tail-shaft housing from transmission.
After removing the four bolts which secure the tail-shaft housing to the transmission case I found that the transmission cross-member had to be lowered a little so the housing could be removed from the car. I was able to do this without lowering the exhaust system.
Remove the drive gear from the shaft.
The drive gear was VERY tight on the shaft. To speed up removal, using a wood chisel, I split the old drive gear. This only required one firm hit.
Install new drive gear.
The new gear was just as tight as the old one. To make installation possible I boiled a cup of water in the microwave and then dropped the new drive gear in the hot water for a couple of minutes. This expanded the gear enough to quickly slide it over the shaft by hand.
(NOTE: The metal retainer clip is positioned on the shaft by one of two holes. Be sure that you select the same hole it came out of. I mistakenly selected the wrong hole thus causing my drive gear to not be centered with the driven gear. I didn’t realize this mistake until I had re-assembled everything.
I guess it’s close enough because my speedometer is working! Good thing because I really didn’t want to tear it all back apart again. )
[pic of gear on shaft]
Last edited by MIKER; 05-28-2005 at 07:50 PM.
2005, 700r4, c6, calibration, change, changing, controlled, corvette, driven, electronic, fluid, gear, gears, speedometer, test, transmission, yoke