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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Know anything about struts? alignment problem
I am putting some new struts on my 63 corvette race car and have come across a problem. They do not want to fit in without an apparent "bind" where the lower control arms bolt up. As you can see in the photos the lower control arms seem twisted in relation to the shock body. This is not a problem with adjusting the length of the individual lower control arms. I tried that. I have to force the top of the shock tower into its mounting slot.
It does not matter if I compress the shock (to simlulate the weight of the vehicle) or not. My guess is the lower mounting postion for the rear lower control arm needs lowered.
Where the Lower ball joint, if that is what it is called where it passes through the eye for the strut rods appears to be binding. It seems to be hitting on the ball joint stud. This is improve once the suspension is at normal ride height. I would remove the spring from the shock and then put the assembled suspenison through it's full range of travel and check again for binding and correct. You can do nothing with the spring installed. You need to remove it and check without it.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
I did that Norval, and it did not improve the geometry at all. I even compressed it with a jack to move it all the way through its range of motion and it did not improve.
I think I need to move the mounting point of the rear lower control arm down about an inch. I mocked it up like that and the geometry was perfect.
IF you have anything prior to say '72?? on these chassis/vettes, the lower inner strut bracket is of a shorter, higher design, and so is not as good as the later version, sometime in shark production....like '70-71?? anyway my '72 has the better of the GM designs not fully adjustable as the VBP smart strut which is adjustabe with inner up down rod positions...and their rods then adjust with the tie rod type construction for length....
It's kind of hard to tell from the angle in the photos, but it looks like the rear arm mount point is about an inch higher, so that might explain why lowering it improves the action. The angle through the "ball joint" area still seems severe. Are any parts flipped 180 degrees or something?
John I am assuming the front of the car is to the left of the picture and that the right lower strut rod as actually the back strut rod??
To me the pivot for the lower sturt rod is totally crooked. It needs to be staighten and I think that if the right/rear strut rod was alot shorter it would help straighten the pivot.
I call it a pivot?? but it is the female part for the lower ball joint to rotate in. This pivot is touching/rubbing on one side.
The spring should be removed from the shock/strut.
Jacking doesn't give you the feel when moving the suspension.
This missalignment/crooked pivot is binding and is dangerous.
Again if you shorten the right strut rod is might help staighten the pivot point?