rear sway bar install Q's
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,009
Likes: 11
From: Philadelphia, sub burbs Wynnewood, PA
rear sway bar install Q's
I bought the entire suspension rebuild kit from Mid America. My car never had a rear sway bar in it when I got it and when I tried to install the rear sway bar everything fits in place, but there is not enough room to bolt it on let alone get any type of tool in there to tighten it up. I considered welding it on, but my friends don’t think that is a good idea have any of you run into anything like this? If so what did you do?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 16
From: Gainesville, Florida
Originally Posted by Scottys78
I bought the entire suspension rebuild kit from Mid America. My car never had a rear sway bar in it when I got it and when I tried to install the rear sway bar everything fits in place, but there is not enough room to bolt it on let alone get any type of tool in there to tighten it up. I considered welding it on, but my friends don’t think that is a good idea have any of you run into anything like this? If so what did you do?
I'm confused ... weld? Are you referring to the clamps that attach the bar under each frame rail or the ends that attach at the trailing arm?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
My sway bar didn't fit on when i tried to install it. The attachment bars were not long enough. I had bought the street slolam kit from VB&P and i was pissed. I had subsituted stiff springs and it actually pushed or held the trailing arms farther from the frame rail.
I sent them a nasty letter about selling stuff that doesn't work and how they should include this simple fix in the kit. This was in the 80's
I bought mild steel 2 X 1 heavy wall cut to about 4 inches. I drilled two holes and spaced my 3/4 rear bar down. I originally installed 2 X 2 bar stock. It made the sway bar nearly parrallel to the ground.
I sent them a nasty letter about selling stuff that doesn't work and how they should include this simple fix in the kit. This was in the 80's
I bought mild steel 2 X 1 heavy wall cut to about 4 inches. I drilled two holes and spaced my 3/4 rear bar down. I originally installed 2 X 2 bar stock. It made the sway bar nearly parrallel to the ground.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 16
From: Gainesville, Florida
Sounds like this is different than gkulls issue. Is there enough vertical space between the sway bar ends & the trailing arm mounting plate to insert the attachment rod & bushings? If not, you may need to lift the body slightly up off the suspension to make additional room to fit it in. Also, make sure the bar is in right side up .... the bend in the middle faces up.
Last edited by gearheadz; Aug 9, 2005 at 01:16 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
My u brackets were bolted on with tapped bar stock.
There aren't any nuts underneath just this bar. No tools needed.
Pretty sure this thing is in the way for working on the spring bolt. If you weld it on
There aren't any nuts underneath just this bar. No tools needed.
Pretty sure this thing is in the way for working on the spring bolt. If you weld it on
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Something is wrong with that setup. Either its a year change or you got the wrong bar. Or you don't have the right attachment parts.
Mine has holes for a horizontal bolt. This bolts not to the trailing arm but a bracket. This bracket then bolts to the U-shaped bracket on the trailing arm. This might be why gkulls was too short. Theres spoda be more stuff on the end of the bar.
The bar doesn't bolt straight to the arm.
Mine has holes for a horizontal bolt. This bolts not to the trailing arm but a bracket. This bracket then bolts to the U-shaped bracket on the trailing arm. This might be why gkulls was too short. Theres spoda be more stuff on the end of the bar.
The bar doesn't bolt straight to the arm.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
GearheadZ - Boy that looks so pretty that I'd be afraid to drive it and get it dirty! 
You see in your picture #2 how the bar is putting a crimp in your rubber bushing. Spacing the bar down like I did corrects that problem. It frees up the binding.
You see in your picture #2 how the bar is putting a crimp in your rubber bushing. Spacing the bar down like I did corrects that problem. It frees up the binding.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
The original post needs more clarity.
Techno is describing the stock rear bar linkages. These use
rubber bushings and a hinge piece between the sway bar and the trailing arm bracket.
Gearheadz and GKull are showing aftermarket bar that attaches
with end links, similar to the front.
Both setups should bolt the bracket to the top of the TA
with a piece of threaded stock (nut-bar) - under the top
surface of the TA (see pics above).
Anyone have a pic of the stock linkage ?
Here's a link to ZIP - shows all the components:
http://www.zip-products.com/Corvette...647EEDDC541927
Don't weld it, your friends are right.
Techno is describing the stock rear bar linkages. These use
rubber bushings and a hinge piece between the sway bar and the trailing arm bracket.
Gearheadz and GKull are showing aftermarket bar that attaches
with end links, similar to the front.
Both setups should bolt the bracket to the top of the TA
with a piece of threaded stock (nut-bar) - under the top
surface of the TA (see pics above).
Anyone have a pic of the stock linkage ?
Here's a link to ZIP - shows all the components:
http://www.zip-products.com/Corvette...647EEDDC541927
Don't weld it, your friends are right.
Last edited by NHvette; Aug 9, 2005 at 02:16 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 16
From: Gainesville, Florida
Originally Posted by gkull
GearheadZ - Boy that looks so pretty that I'd be afraid to drive it and get it dirty!
You see in your picture #2 how the bar is putting a crimp in your rubber bushing. Spacing the bar down like I did corrects that problem. It frees up the binding.
You see in your picture #2 how the bar is putting a crimp in your rubber bushing. Spacing the bar down like I did corrects that problem. It frees up the binding.
Good point on the horizontal angle of the bar. The car sits a little high now so that's contributing to the binding. When I get the stance lower where I want it, I'll probably make a spacer to get it horizontal. Thanks again!
Mark
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by gearheadz
...just waiting for some trim parts to come back from the chromer & she'll be back on the road .... no rain driving or off roading for me!
Good point on the horizontal angle of the bar. The car sits a little high now so that's contributing to the binding. When I get the stance lower where I want it, I'll probably make a spacer to get it horizontal. Thanks again!
Mark
Good point on the horizontal angle of the bar. The car sits a little high now so that's contributing to the binding. When I get the stance lower where I want it, I'll probably make a spacer to get it horizontal. Thanks again!
Mark
Once the body is back on, the rear end should come down significantly.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,009
Likes: 11
From: Philadelphia, sub burbs Wynnewood, PA
Originally Posted by Techno
Something is wrong with that setup. Either its a year change or you got the wrong bar. Or you don't have the right attachment parts.
Mine has holes for a horizontal bolt. This bolts not to the trailing arm but a bracket. This bracket then bolts to the U-shaped bracket on the trailing arm. This might be why gkulls was too short. Theres spoda be more stuff on the end of the bar.
The bar doesn't bolt straight to the arm.
Mine has holes for a horizontal bolt. This bolts not to the trailing arm but a bracket. This bracket then bolts to the U-shaped bracket on the trailing arm. This might be why gkulls was too short. Theres spoda be more stuff on the end of the bar.
The bar doesn't bolt straight to the arm.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne
I have just purchased a rear (and front) sway bay for my '70.
The brackets I have appear similar to the above image however I do not have mounting holes in the arm - just the bigger hole to access the spring bush/bolt.
From what I can determine from this image, the new plates are bolted to the arm - one bolt through the existing larger hole, HOWEVER it appears as if the other bolt is external to the arm (not bolted through it. Is this correct? Or will I have to drill new holes either side of the larger holes?
Good advice is sought and appreciated.
The brackets I have appear similar to the above image however I do not have mounting holes in the arm - just the bigger hole to access the spring bush/bolt.
From what I can determine from this image, the new plates are bolted to the arm - one bolt through the existing larger hole, HOWEVER it appears as if the other bolt is external to the arm (not bolted through it. Is this correct? Or will I have to drill new holes either side of the larger holes?
Good advice is sought and appreciated.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne
Bump!!
I have just purchased a rear (and front) sway bay for my '70.
The brackets I have appear similar to the above image however I do not have mounting holes in the arm - just the bigger hole to access the spring bush/bolt.
From what I can determine from this image, the new plates are bolted to the arm - one bolt through the existing larger hole, HOWEVER it appears as if the other bolt is external to the arm (not bolted through it. Is this correct? Or will I have to drill new holes either side of the larger holes?
Good advice is sought and appreciated.
The brackets I have appear similar to the above image however I do not have mounting holes in the arm - just the bigger hole to access the spring bush/bolt.
From what I can determine from this image, the new plates are bolted to the arm - one bolt through the existing larger hole, HOWEVER it appears as if the other bolt is external to the arm (not bolted through it. Is this correct? Or will I have to drill new holes either side of the larger holes?
Good advice is sought and appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,459
Likes: 979
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
This OEM bar offered is the ONE to have with the OEM endlinks. Aftermarket bars with the horizontal endlinks restrict the movement of the IRS to a much greater effect than the OEM type bars and can cause unexpected oversteer to the unaware. I replaced my OEM 7/16 rear bar with a 3/4 OEM type bar to match the front 1 1/8 inch OEM bar-everything has poly bushings-everything! GM did not use the same endlink format on the rear bars as the front bars for a very good reason the C3 rear IRS. The horizontal endlinks for rear sway bars are fine on solid axle cars. Hope that helps!
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne
This OEM bar offered is the ONE to have with the OEM endlinks. Aftermarket bars with the horizontal endlinks restrict the movement of the IRS to a much greater effect than the OEM type bars and can cause unexpected oversteer to the unaware. I replaced my OEM 7/16 rear bar with a 3/4 OEM type bar to match the front 1 1/8 inch OEM bar-everything has poly bushings-everything! GM did not use the same endlink format on the rear bars as the front bars for a very good reason the C3 rear IRS. The horizontal endlinks for rear sway bars are fine on solid axle cars. Hope that helps!
As I already have the bar with horizontal endlinks I'll continue with its installation. And "oversteer" - love it!! Brings out the best in my driving :-)
