MELVINJ

I can get an aluminum flywheel for $250 25 lbs!

The stock flywheel, as we all know, is heavy as hell. So................

Is it worth it? Seems less HP wasted on rotating mass = more hp and torque

Any thoughts?

not a '76

launches will be harder technically. how much harder is open to debate.

but shifts will be quicker because the rpms will drop quicker. how much quicker is open to debate

it will also rev faster. which is a good thing.

so better for moving. worse for launching. worse for around town driving. better for road courses.

i think you need to post what you do with the car. and i think it has everything to do with driver preferance. i say jump on it and try it. and if you dont like it you can always go back to stock.

flynhi

I have been advised several times by my local speed shops to not do this if primary driving is around town.

Retro78

i also have the same question.

69autoXr

I have the GM L-88 nodular iron flywheel, which is about 15 lbs. It's not bad launching, but I have a 4.11 gear with an M-20.

Jclgodale3

GM Nodular 15 pounder here as well...nice flywheel!

Kid Vette

"GM L-88 nodular iron flywheel"

Yep, me too with an M-20 and 3:08 rear. I like it!

Ol Blue

Jclgodale3
What rear gear and transmission do you have? Kid Vette, I've been considering putting a L88 flywheel in my daughters car but was afraid that with a 3.36 rear gear and a 2.20 first gear in trans, that it would be hard to get rolling in town.

It would be nice for passing cars though and making up for the higher rear gear.

Neither one of you has experienced a problem taking off?
Thanks
Ol Blue

Jclgodale3

Ol...I have the T5 5 speed and a 3:36 rear. Hope that helps...J

Kid Vette

With the old cam (which was pretty radical - over .500 lift) I really had to feather the clutch when starting from a stop. With the new cam (Comp Cams XE262H) I never even think about it. It has a lot more low end torque. When its time to rebuild the rear end I'll probably go to a 3:36 or a 3:55 tho.

MELVINJ

Ive got a 502-502, M-20, 3:55 rear. I havent heard of a nodlar Iron flywheel before (Man, 15 lbs?). Im a daily type driver

Bottom line, less rotating weight sound like a good thing (let alone less weight period)

So the debate is still here. Harder launches with a lighter flywheel, or what. Im not sure how drivability would be affected, if at all

Launches to me would be better. You get to your rpm faster when you want to dump the clutch. Also, shifting down the 1/4, shifters should faster, as rev down would be quicker?

MELVINJ

I just looked at the GM perf parts nodular iron flywheel. I dont beleive it will work on my 502, even though its ext balanced, but it may: So what is the price you guys paid for one?

69ttop502

Melvin, I have a 625 horse 502 and I am running a Mcleod aluminum flywheel. Really light. It is slightly harder to get rolling from a stop but well worth it the way it spins up through the gears. Part of my problem is that I don't have my tuning dialed in just yet with the big cam. I would go with the light flywheel again though.

Rich's'78

I am curious. What does the stock '78 L48 flywheel weigh?
Thanks,
R.

Ol Blue

MelvinJ
I think I paid around $150 to Chevy for one 3 years ago. It went behind a big block with 3.70 gears.
Ol Blue

84rzv500r

I have one as well and it was 109$ to my door they make them for MK IV motors and Gen VI. (edit on a 2004 502 Ramjet)

Alu flywheels must have some sort of rivited or bonded friction surface...

Ironcross

You can get the L88 flywheel for around $200 that uses the high performance 10 1/2 clutch assembly, and it`s 10 lbs lighter than the one you have been asking about.

427Hotrod

I can tell you that even with over 800 hp, a 5 speed trans and 3600 lbs, when it was all done Mcleod still recommended a light steel (22 lbs) flywheel for my new clutch combo. They felt there was just too much weight to risk using an aluminum.

Take it for what it's worth....but mine revs Ok to me!

Less Hp, less gearing and similar weight is asking for slower launches.

JIM

84rzv500r

With BBC torque I'm not sure your gonna notice...

Assuming every thing else equal, a Lighter flywheel will rev quicker (less mass to accellerate) and die quicker (less stored kinetic energy).

road racing would prolly want a light flywheel, street driving would prolly want a heavier flywheel to smooth out those stoplight starts, drag racing seems like balance would be the order of the day matching torque to traction

When I was road racing bikes the trick was to go to 500-1000 rpm over peak torque RPM and hold it when the 30 second board came up then feed in the clutch and pin the throttle as the flagman moved... using the clutch to prevent wheel stand. I'm guessing drag racing is something similar to prevent going up in smoke

IMHO

Tom454

Also... 502 externally balanced? Flywheel & Balancer in the equation? Re-balance required?