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trailing arm dilema

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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by stingry
You get more room on the inside and then the wheel offset depends on how toy use that offset. A standard T-arms will accept about a 9" wheel with 4.5" backspace (factory is 8" with 4" backspace) though I think you need to move the park brake bracket to get 9" wheels on there. If you put on an offset T-arm you would need to check the where the hub sits in relation your fenderwell to determin width and backspacing. I am sure someone else will tell you the max size they have stuffed in the rear of the vette. The limiting factor becomes the frame as it will rub the tires if they are too large.

You can either cut a steel spring on one end and drill a new hole on the end and in the centre or order a shortened composite spring from Van Steel. In either case you need a shorter spring as the T-arms are closer together then the stock ones were.

The offset T-arms give you more tire width and also have the park brake cable bracket mounted out of the way.

The factory t-arms are pretty much crap in terms of the manufacturing technique and the welds. The offest T-arms are a lot stronger then the stamped/partially welded factory ones.

The stock sway arm would not fit as it is designed for the stock distance T-arms that are XX apart. WIth offset T-arms you will have a wheel/tire infirnging on the sway bars domain. Hence they probably reccommend you remove it so that it does not rub the wheel.

I have the factory ones rebuilt by Van Steel but then I don't have 11" tires and 500 HP either.

That should answer some of what you want to know.

Pete
yea i can see how it will work on the front side, but if i buy a shorter spring( youll never drill a hole in the old one ) is the offset on that side as well? in other words, is the spring hole in the t/a in the stock location? or has it been offset as well to compensate for the shorter spring?
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 09:30 PM
  #22  
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With my stock components I saw that the spring bolts were not lined up properly with the T/A right from the beginning. In my case if I got the offsets and they are a little closer to the center, then the spring bolts should line up properly with the hole at the top of the T/A. Lets put it this way, I couldnt get a socket through the top hole in the T/A to hold the bolt head from spinning. I had to use an adjustable wrench from the rear. First off the only socket that fit through the hole was too small for the bolt so it didnt make sense to have an access hole there anyway. Also on some aftermarket T/As I saw that there was no place to mount a sway bar bracket to it. The end of the stock T/A is like a box, hole in bottom for spring mounting and the top of the box is for mounting a sway bar. The aftermarket is just a flat plate with a mounting hole for the spring.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by redc3
yea i can see how it will work on the front side, but if i buy a shorter spring( youll never drill a hole in the old one ) is the offset on that side as well? in other words, is the spring hole in the t/a in the stock location? or has it been offset as well to compensate for the shorter spring?
Need to check with Van Steel about the T-arms location. I know some guys on here have drilled the steel spring. Think it wasn't too difficult (wasn't easy either).
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #24  
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I got offset trailing arms from Vansteel and currently have 15 X 9" wheels with a 4" bs on the back (295 50 tires). I also have a 1/2" shortened (on each side) spring from Vansteel. I have about 1.5" space still between the inside wheels and the frame, spring end etc., so plan to go 5" bs on my new wheels when I get them, which should suck them in to about where they need to be.

Anyway, I wish I had gone double offset trailing arms and an even shorter custom spring as I could have sucked the tires in even more. Regardless, Vansteel did a very nice job.

Dave W.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 10:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by kenko74
FWIW, I fully trust VanSteel. Top Notch service and products.

Good parts and good service.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 10:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by strokervette
the offset is only in the middle of the T/A where the meat of the tire would be the closest. Personally I don't have a sway bar and I don't intend on getting one because #1 it won't let the susp unload correctly for hard launches and #2 it saves weight (but not much).
How do I drill out the rivets that hold the rotor on? And I noticed there threaded ones on the rear side as well, whats the deal with those, they don't have a hex head on them. All in all, I think I will be getting the entire assembly. It's way less work for me and I still have a lot to do on this car. Thanx again guys, I will update you on the progress. And vansteel, I'll check out those links.
I've had great success drilling out the rotor rivets with a 3/8" titanium drill bit ( Dewalts is excellent ). Center punch the rivet, then drill down about 1/2", removing the rivet heads. (If the rotor doesn't fall off, just tap it with a hammer).
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:43 AM
  #27  
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how do I remove the spindle bolt from the T/A?
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 03:23 AM
  #28  
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If you want to keep it simple and inexspensive, ZIPCORVETTE.COM can give you rebuilt complete Trailing arms for approx $360 each. I have had excellent luck with them. They have had the best price on everything..PERIOD!

Your arms are shot, it sounds like, so your cost may be more. Don't mess with your arms especially if you plan on using the car...just get it all done right the first time and don't worry about that part again.

Good Luck, Ken
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 12:51 AM
  #29  
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One more question guys, Is there a replacement for the bushing support on the end of the leaf spring? Mine was so rusted I was able to pull it right out. Even the side where the bushing goes was rotted out. The spring is in good shape and I was considering just cleaning and painting it but only if it was possible to replace the bushing supports. I also want to lower the rear, and was thinking of removing either the top leaf ( the smallest ) or the one below it to get it lower but how drastic will the stiffness of the ride be compromised. I would perfer it be stiff for the occasional hard launch. Oh and it is a 9 leaf spring and the car appeared to sit evenly on the ground but I did not measure it. Right now with everything apart I would be making educated guesses on the mods and probably be asking more questions like this if I can't already find the answers here or elsewhere on the net. Thanx again !!!!!
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 04:14 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by CorvetteDave01
I got offset trailing arms from Vansteel and currently have 15 X 9" wheels with a 4" bs on the back (295 50 tires). I also have a 1/2" shortened (on each side) spring from Vansteel. I have about 1.5" space still between the inside wheels and the frame, spring end etc., so plan to go 5" bs on my new wheels when I get them, which should suck them in to about where they need to be.

Anyway, I wish I had gone double offset trailing arms and an even shorter custom spring as I could have sucked the tires in even more. Regardless, Vansteel did a very nice job.

Dave W.
I also have Vansteel double offset t/a's with a 2" shorter spring on my 77, I put 17x9.5 torq thrust wheels with 5" backspacing and 275 tires, they fit very well, the tires are vertical with the outside edge of the stock fender flares, I still have about an extra 1/2" clearance on the inside, I plan on smoking these tires after the 383 go's in and replacing them with 295's, I will have to trim the inside edges of the fender lip at the top so these 295's will not crunch the fenders if I hit a big bump
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