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I have read a few threads (yes i really did use the search engine) about replacing the original steel main fuel and return line on my 76. I had to pull my old line because of rust. People suggested using braided line for safety reasons which does sound good but I cant figure why I couldn't just use rubber fuel line the whole way. I am a weekend driver that will never see a drag strip . Anyway, did anyone use rubber and have you had any problems because of it?
You can use rubber line and it MIGHT be fine. I look at it this way, your car and your life are not worth saving a few bucks. Just don't do it.
How do you plan on holding the rubber line in place? Whatever you use will rub and will rub worse as you drive. Not to mention the rubbing against the frame and some of those welds can be rough.
I grew up in a Dodge dealership that was owned by a classmates father. He always told us we were not smarter than the engineer that designed it so who are we to change it.
Pre formed steel line is a little bit expensive but the generic straight bundyflex tubing costs about the same as rubber on a per foot basis. You will need some tools to bend and flare and it takes a little practice but it is a skill worth having IMHO.
Rubber hose can fail after a few years and you won't know where it failed, unless it leaks. It can delaminate internly and act like a check valve.
The tubing apparently can be fished in through the wheel well and clamped in place without all the small bends. I haven't done it but saw a mag article and someone else did it this way. This is done with a coil of tubing not straight sections. Coiled stuff is annealed and flexible to a point. Like copper plumbing pipe Vs tubing.
There is rubber hose from the factory at each end of the steel line that seems to be good enough from the factory. I am sure the rubber line that connects to the tank is factory original so it lasted 30 years. If I use the original clamp locations from the steel line that should be plenty. I keep hearing rubbing, whats it going to rub on? The frame is rigid, It may flex slightly but with my massive 185/165 horse power motor, I may have to drive a little slower to keep it from flexing. I still do not see the problem with running a rubber line. Keep the comments coming, I do appreciate the input.
He always told us we were not smarter than the engineer that designed it so who are we to change it.
Your car was engineered and crash tested using metal fuel lines. Even though you'll be driving slow do you want to take a chance that should you be in a crash bent metal cuts into a rubber fuel line? For the sake of your friends and family don't take the chance on becoming a burn victim.
The rubber line will rub against the frame, and especially where the line goes through the crossmember. Unless you can get some clips to keep the rubber line away from the frame, use the bundy tubing.
There is rubber hose from the factory at each end of the steel line that seems to be good enough from the factory. I am sure the rubber line that connects to the tank is factory original so it lasted 30 years. If I use the original clamp locations from the steel line that should be plenty. I keep hearing rubbing, whats it going to rub on? The frame is rigid, It may flex slightly but with my massive 185/165 horse power motor, I may have to drive a little slower to keep it from flexing. I still do not see the problem with running a rubber line. Keep the comments coming, I do appreciate the input.
You sound like one of those guys that will put the car in the air on one spindly little scissor jack and then slide right under there and start working.
I just hope the moment you figure out that rubber fuel line is not such a good idea does not coincide with being trapped in your car under a cement truck with gasoline poring across your chest from all those cuts and tears in that rubber fuel line.
There is rubber hose from the factory at each end of the steel line that seems to be good enough from the factory. I am sure the rubber line that connects to the tank is factory original so it lasted 30 years.
You are absolutely correct, but you forget one important thing...the two rubber ends never touch the frame, and have no chance of rubbing against the frame. But, it's your life...
If you go to drag race your car, it won't pass tech if you have more than so many inches of rubber fuel line, I forget how many. So there must be a reason. However, unless it's stainless, steel line can rust and and rubbing can wear through a metal line as well. One thing you might consider, nowadays you can buy the regular old school rubber hose, or you can buy the new rubber hose for injected cars. This stuff has to stand up to 40-60 psi which gives you big safety factor on your carburated Vette. But wait! Don't go down to your local Pep Boys to buy this stuff! Go to McMaster Carr, they have a web site and you'll pay 1/4 of what they charge.
...you can run both lines front to back(1/4" & 3/8")using aluminum tubing that by carefully running it through the frame where the original line went. Since it is aluminum, it'll bend easy as you go. Start from the back of the car above the right muffler and form it as you go. I also DO NOT recommend running a rubber line the whole way. The factory doesn't do it for a reason.
Rubber hose can fail after a few years and you won't know where it failed, unless it leaks. It can delaminate internly and act like a check valve.
The tubing apparently can be fished in through the wheel well and clamped in place without all the small bends. I haven't done it but saw a mag article and someone else did it this way. This is done with a coil of tubing not straight sections. Coiled stuff is annealed and flexible to a point. Like copper plumbing pipe Vs tubing.
When I first got my car I replaced the fuel line and return with the body on. You have to use a coil, it is a total PITA but you can do it with the body on. Took me about a full day and some scrapped knuckles. You will not have all the nice bends that you can do with the body off, but you can do it. Bought the coiled fuel line (steel) from the local Auto Parts store.
Years ago, I belonged to a Corvette club. On one of the outings they were caravaning through the Mojave desert on a very hot day. (I heard this story second hand from the person driving behind the car that was to become a very hot car.) The story goes that the car in front, of the teller of the story, was suddenly and briefly was hidden by a fire ball. It seem that the driver of the car in front had recently installed a new engine, and to get quickly running in time for the outing, had connected the carb to the fuel pump with a rubber hose. For what ever reason, the rubber hose came loose, or was burnt by the head from headers. Anyhow, the fuel pump pumped fuel onto the headers and an explosion/fire resulted. The driver said afterwards that there was even a brief jet of flames come out of the car's passengers compartment vents. The car was severly damaged. A truck driver stopped and helped put out the fire.
I'd guess that there's a lot of other rubber gas hose stories out there. Made a believer of me.
I have a few dollars into my 1967. There is a place for rubber such as the S-hoses at the fuel pump where the rigid frame and the pulsating motor have to cooperate. But most other locations scream for steel or SS for me. I use rubber where GM did. As for glass in-line gas filters....
Wow, you guys are tough. I just wanted an honest discussion. I get the point, I will certainly die a horrible death in a giant fire ball, or if I am lucky maybe just get run over by a "cement truck" if I use a rubber fuel line.
I give, I am off to the store to buy a metal line.
Thanks (I think)...
Wow, you guys are tough. I just wanted an honest discussion. I get the point, I will certainly die a horrible death in a giant fire ball, or if I am lucky maybe just get run over by a "cement truck" if I use a rubber fuel line.
I give, I am off to the store to buy a metal line.
Thanks (I think)...