Joe Lynch

How can I make or where can I buy some snubbers to limit the squat and hold the half shaft angle at zero on a 66 427 big block?
Thanks,
Joe Lynch
Midland, TX

MassVette

Try Dick Guldstrand at: http://www.guldstrand.com Dick is a famous Corvette racer and really knows them thoroughly! Tom's may have them, too.
Hey, you other gearheads! Help this guy out! He's visiting from the C-2 board and needs some answers. I told him how helpful and knowledgeable people on the C-3 forum were!
:rolleyes: :yesnod: :rolleyes:

Joe Lynch

MassVette--Thanks for the link, and the note to the other forum regulars........I think....LOL.

Stingy74

This trick will work but you are doing what you are doing which is limiting suspension travel which the Corvette has been know to be really good for. It would kinna seem stupid and I don't think i'd do it but if you ran slight posotive camber by the time the rear suspension would be under full load you'd have zero camber.

robzr

Hi Joe,

I've been looking for this product for a long time, I haven't seen it. I'm buying a milling machine in the next few weeks, and this will be one of my first projects - shims for the existing bumpers. Email me or keep my email address if you are interested in a set.

later

Rob

Tom454

I extended the factory snubber by using a long bolt and a bunch of washers. It ain't "trick", but it worked for me. I think the milling machine and a little block of aluminum is a better idea.

gkull

I might be all wrong, but I would (NOT) want to be ending up with the equivolent of no rear suspension. Please tell me so!

I went to the drags the other day and I was there to learn and test out my new line lock and two stage rev limiter. I only have 10X28 slicks on 10 inch drag light wheels. I noticed some of the more powerful cars actually going into tire shake durring the burn out. Those same cars never seemed to leave the line straight.

Years ago how I limited squat was 420 inch pound steel leaf and 3/4 rear sway bar. I have never touched the rear rubber snubbers. I have actually thought about getting rid of them as excess weight.


[Modified by gkull, 11:56 AM 8/13/2001]


[Modified by gkull, 11:58 AM 8/13/2001]


[Modified by gkull, 12:07 PM 8/13/2001]

Joe Lynch

I think what I will do is put a marker on each trailing arm and measure the displacement during a launch, then see if the haflsaft angle is really that bad. The car squats about 2" on launch, but eyeballs are deceiving. Plus, the suspension worked pretty darn well during the first outing. I have the 9 leaf spring I can put back in if it squates too much with the 7 leaf.

I guess if I decide to limit the travel with more than the springs, I can make a snubber to try. Thanks, gentlemen.

Joe Lynch

Tom454

It depends on your situation and objective... my rear tires are 275-15's and they are just even with the outside of the stock fenders. I had this same situation on my 66 with flared fenders, and the first bump I hit cracked the fenders. On the 70, I used a coupler and a piece of threaded rod to extend the stud on the rubber bumper, and I stacked a bunch of large ID washers around it for stability. According to my measurements, the extended bumber is placed just enough lower to prohibit the tires from hitting the fender lips. So far, 15 years later, I have not cracked my fenders. There is still sufficient spring rate & travel to provide a "normally" functioning suspension as a daily driver, but enough protection that I won't crack my fenders if I hit a skunk or an armadillo (or a wallabee). In the case of a dedicated race car, however, the heavy spring may may be just what the doctor ordered. I have the 360 fiberglass spring on my 70, and I have the 300 on my 66. I do not like the 360 for driving, as opposed to racing. The 360 makes every little road imperfection an adversary. Really rattles my teeth.

gkull

Tom454 I also had BFG T/a's 275/60/15 on 8.5 wheels and I was bombing down a road and hit tire/fender

That's about the time I went to 360 mono and gas shocks. Now My 10X28's stick outside my fenders and they never touch down.

I avoid any bumpy road.

Gator81

Joe,
I think it would actually have more squat with the 9-leaf than with the 7-leaf. If they're stock springs, the 7-leaf is generally the stiffer of the two.

Vette Brakes sells a 420-lb/in rear monospring that they recommend for drag racing. I would think that you could use the adjustable spring-end bolts to get to a point where you'd get approximately zero halfshaft angle under load.

StingrayRacing

I must be the odd-ball hear since I'm only running a 315# spring and some KYB GR2 shicks in the rear. I do raise the ride height a bit when I run slicks since they are 27" tall, so maybe this helps. I also have the VB Smart Struts i thin they help too.

My 60' improved when I went from the 360# to the 315#...but the car was definitely too stiff with the 360#. It used to jump when I hit bumps...now it rides nice.

Best 60' with Hoosier QTP's is 1.62 with drag radials 1.68

I'm still paying with the alignment...the slicks were only showing wear on the outer 1/3...maybe I'll get a 1.5x 60' this year

Joe Lynch

Thanks for all the replies. I checked with Vette Brakes and with Tom's Differentials and now have more options than I can possibly need.
Joe Lynch
Midland, TX