Tubular A-Arm List
Thread Starter
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
I don't believe that the upper shock mount will be a problem. In the JMR kit, his coilovers only have 2" of travel and uses 750# springs. This is pretty much the same upper mount. Appreciate the input though. I absorb it all and will take it into consideration. 
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Originally Posted by Van Steel
They are chromoly and the wall thickness is .095.
What's the advantage of these arms? They are lighter and stronger. Our uppers will save you 6 lbs. 3 lbs each arm. The lowers will save you 4 1/2 lbs. 2 1/4 lbs each side.
What's the advantage of these arms? They are lighter and stronger. Our uppers will save you 6 lbs. 3 lbs each arm. The lowers will save you 4 1/2 lbs. 2 1/4 lbs each side.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Originally Posted by Van Steel
what other material spec do you want? Yes
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I don't think the tubing is thick enough to warrant stress relieving being < .120???
Stress relieving can't be done w/ an oxy/acet torch, just heating it red hot and then letting it cool again does more harm than good. For propre stress relieving you need an autoclave (vacuum) and a fixture to support the part to be stress relieved. The autoclave is then set to slowly heat to 1150-1250F or so in about 4 hrs, maintain the temp for a certain amount of time (usually a couple of minutes to hours depending on part) and slowly cool down. All this w/ the fixture supporting the part and keeping it from deforming. There's no way you can do this with a torch, and there's another problem with the torch, scaling! When you torch the part glowing red hot after welding you get scakubg, Consequently a small layer is removed so that your wall thickness is reduced.
So, either the parts get really expensive with the whole autoclave procedure or you use them as welded, torching just makes things worse. With the relativly thin material (wall thickness) the whole weld area gets reasonably uniformly heated during the welding so stress cracking shouldn't be a problem if the weld is sound.
Stress relieving can't be done w/ an oxy/acet torch, just heating it red hot and then letting it cool again does more harm than good. For propre stress relieving you need an autoclave (vacuum) and a fixture to support the part to be stress relieved. The autoclave is then set to slowly heat to 1150-1250F or so in about 4 hrs, maintain the temp for a certain amount of time (usually a couple of minutes to hours depending on part) and slowly cool down. All this w/ the fixture supporting the part and keeping it from deforming. There's no way you can do this with a torch, and there's another problem with the torch, scaling! When you torch the part glowing red hot after welding you get scakubg, Consequently a small layer is removed so that your wall thickness is reduced.
So, either the parts get really expensive with the whole autoclave procedure or you use them as welded, torching just makes things worse. With the relativly thin material (wall thickness) the whole weld area gets reasonably uniformly heated during the welding so stress cracking shouldn't be a problem if the weld is sound.
Thread Starter
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by 75 Hot One
There are many types of chromemoly steel with different amounts of chromium and moly. The steel should have an ASTM or AISI spec (maybe called an SAE spec) that defines the chemical composition. Low chrome steels are air hardenable meaning they can be brittle in the as-welded condition. Hence the question about stress relieving after welding.
I don't know much about metals. I just know that they are chromoly. I don't know how the whole process works after they are welded. We are not making the arms in house. They are being made exclusively for us by a company that makes many other tubular a-arms.
Thread Starter
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Here is an updated pic of the lower coilover arm. These arms are weighing in at 10lbs w/ball joints. 4.25 lbs lighter than stock and 2 lbs lighter than the semi-coilovers pictured in the 1st post. Also an updated pic of the upper.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Originally Posted by Van Steel
I don't know much about metals. I just know that they are chromoly. I don't know how the whole process works after they are welded. We are not making the arms in house. They are being made exclusively for us by a company that makes many other tubular a-arms.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I don't think the tubing is thick enough to warrant stress relieving being < .120???
Stress relieving can't be done w/ an oxy/acet torch, just heating it red hot and then letting it cool again does more harm than good. For propre stress relieving you need an autoclave (vacuum) and a fixture to support the part to be stress relieved. The autoclave is then set to slowly heat to 1150-1250F or so in about 4 hrs, maintain the temp for a certain amount of time (usually a couple of minutes to hours depending on part) and slowly cool down. All this w/ the fixture supporting the part and keeping it from deforming. There's no way you can do this with a torch, and there's another problem with the torch, scaling! When you torch the part glowing red hot after welding you get scakubg, Consequently a small layer is removed so that your wall thickness is reduced.
So, either the parts get really expensive with the whole autoclave procedure or you use them as welded, torching just makes things worse. With the relativly thin material (wall thickness) the whole weld area gets reasonably uniformly heated during the welding so stress cracking shouldn't be a problem if the weld is sound.
Stress relieving can't be done w/ an oxy/acet torch, just heating it red hot and then letting it cool again does more harm than good. For propre stress relieving you need an autoclave (vacuum) and a fixture to support the part to be stress relieved. The autoclave is then set to slowly heat to 1150-1250F or so in about 4 hrs, maintain the temp for a certain amount of time (usually a couple of minutes to hours depending on part) and slowly cool down. All this w/ the fixture supporting the part and keeping it from deforming. There's no way you can do this with a torch, and there's another problem with the torch, scaling! When you torch the part glowing red hot after welding you get scakubg, Consequently a small layer is removed so that your wall thickness is reduced.
So, either the parts get really expensive with the whole autoclave procedure or you use them as welded, torching just makes things worse. With the relativly thin material (wall thickness) the whole weld area gets reasonably uniformly heated during the welding so stress cracking shouldn't be a problem if the weld is sound.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Yup but I was trying to point out that autoclave relieving is probably way too expensive for the small amount of parts produced.
It's probably .5< >1 % Cr / .3 C / AISI 4130 (hence my temp of 1550F) .. Van Steel, can you ask what it really is??
It's probably .5< >1 % Cr / .3 C / AISI 4130 (hence my temp of 1550F) .. Van Steel, can you ask what it really is??
Thread Starter
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by 75 Hot One
It's a bit frightening that the materials might not even be made to a spec. If you're not aware of the material spec, that raises other questions relating to the quality control of the assemblies. For example, what filler metal, if any, is being used for the welds? Does it match the tube metallurgy? Sounds like we should know a bit more about these before committing. Sounds like some specs should be developed-possibly discuss with the fabricator and at least document materials & quality control considerations so future A-arms are the same as the first. If there are no specs, how do you know these A-arms are stronger than OEM as previously stated?
Like I said, I don't know. All a-arms are built in a jig so they are made the same everytime. I'm sure the fabricator, who has to have a license and is certified knows what type of materials to use and not to use. This is not specialty. If it was, I could answer your questions more appropiately. These arms have been on my car for about 3 months and I have had zero problems with them. If you called me up and asked me how I built my bearing assemblies, that would be a different story.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 38,362
Likes: 2,085
From: California
Coilover lower a-arms, I like the first version you posted and would buy those.
I would prefer the first design and modifiy your arm myself the lower shock mount for coilover, it looks stronger. I always think of double shear being better. The later version with the tabs, I like something on the other side supporting the tab. The first ones that you showed have essentially a stock lower shock mount giving you something to weld to, to support the shock mount from both sides.
Years ago I bought a set of your rear offset trailing arms and modified the bushing ends to take the Guldstrand Spherical Bearings and toe adjustment screws and gusseted the arms in other locations.
For us that modify the parts bought, you have to leave us something to tinker with!
Years ago I bought a set of your rear offset trailing arms and modified the bushing ends to take the Guldstrand Spherical Bearings and toe adjustment screws and gusseted the arms in other locations.
For us that modify the parts bought, you have to leave us something to tinker with!
Thanks for the order.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Arizona
Originally Posted by Van Steel
They are being powdered today. If they got them done early enough today, I'll pick them up and ship them out.
Great news, I will start pulling the front end apart in anticipation of there arival
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
I received mine today, very nice worksmanship and TIG welding. No price break for skipping the powdercoating though huh 
.
What coilovers are you guys selling/using with these? I probably won't be to that point until around Memorial Day - got to strip, dip, and powdercoat the frame first.
Again, thanks for getting these to me so quick, they are very nice pieces.
Now if only my tall deck Warhawk LS7X block and 12* heads would arrive I'd be really happy.
.What coilovers are you guys selling/using with these? I probably won't be to that point until around Memorial Day - got to strip, dip, and powdercoat the frame first.
Again, thanks for getting these to me so quick, they are very nice pieces.
Now if only my tall deck Warhawk LS7X block and 12* heads would arrive I'd be really happy.
Thread Starter
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by Monty
I received mine today, very nice worksmanship and TIG welding. No price break for skipping the powdercoating though huh .
What coilovers are you guys selling/using with these? I probably won't be to that point until around Memorial Day - got to strip, dip, and powdercoat the frame first.
Again, thanks for getting these to me so quick, they are very nice pieces.
Now if only my tall deck Warhawk LS7X block and 12* heads would arrive I'd be really happy.
.What coilovers are you guys selling/using with these? I probably won't be to that point until around Memorial Day - got to strip, dip, and powdercoat the frame first.
Again, thanks for getting these to me so quick, they are very nice pieces.
Now if only my tall deck Warhawk LS7X block and 12* heads would arrive I'd be really happy.
Powder coating was deducted from the price. If you only knew how much it really cost to powder coat parts in standard colors, your jaw would probably drop, considering what people pay for it. Our cost is even lower since we own our powder coating plant.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 283
From: Puyallup WA
Originally Posted by Monty
Now if only my tall deck Warhawk LS7X block and 12* heads would arrive I'd be really happy.
Steve