Best aftermarket aluminum radiator??
05-29-2006, 07:16 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Of course I think we make the best but what defines "The best"? Is it the best fit, best looks, best performance, or the best price?
FIT:Well I know ours fit better, dealers tell us everyday. That's because we made four dedicated models for C3, instead of one model fits all 69-82. We call our line "Direct Fit" for a reason.
LOOKS:Something we do special, that doesn't get a lot of attention is the use of press formed end tanks. The tooling to produce custom formed tanks cost us many thousands of dollars but the end result is a one piece formed tank without any fabrication welds. We made the cross channels with four bends (hat shape) so they are identical to the factory brass unit. Not only does this look stock, but it provides standardization when desigining electric fan brackets. The channels even have the rectangle punch holes. So, when you paint one of these black you can hardly tell it's not the real thing. Paint won't hide a B\C.
PERFORMANCE:We have a higher fin count (16fpi) and b/c is low (13fpi)
PRICE:We are about the same rad for rad depending on what dealer you buy them from. But when you add up the dual fan option, we are much better. Our dual fan kit (SP460) is $425 and comes with everything, including a programable controller. Our finished mounting looks a whole lot better than the universal/adjustable kit that b/c sells.
A DeWitt rad/fan combo is $920, a b/c can be up to $1200 when you add all the brackets and wiring kits.
DeWitts specializes in Corvette radiators and we are helping pay the light bill on the CorvetteForum. Pardon the highjack....
FIT:Well I know ours fit better, dealers tell us everyday. That's because we made four dedicated models for C3, instead of one model fits all 69-82. We call our line "Direct Fit" for a reason.
LOOKS:Something we do special, that doesn't get a lot of attention is the use of press formed end tanks. The tooling to produce custom formed tanks cost us many thousands of dollars but the end result is a one piece formed tank without any fabrication welds. We made the cross channels with four bends (hat shape) so they are identical to the factory brass unit. Not only does this look stock, but it provides standardization when desigining electric fan brackets. The channels even have the rectangle punch holes. So, when you paint one of these black you can hardly tell it's not the real thing. Paint won't hide a B\C.
PERFORMANCE:We have a higher fin count (16fpi) and b/c is low (13fpi)
PRICE:We are about the same rad for rad depending on what dealer you buy them from. But when you add up the dual fan option, we are much better. Our dual fan kit (SP460) is $425 and comes with everything, including a programable controller. Our finished mounting looks a whole lot better than the universal/adjustable kit that b/c sells.
A DeWitt rad/fan combo is $920, a b/c can be up to $1200 when you add all the brackets and wiring kits.
DeWitts specializes in Corvette radiators and we are helping pay the light bill on the CorvetteForum. Pardon the highjack....
Thanks
05-29-2006, 08:01 PM
#22
I wonder who will want to shoot me for the following info.....
Did you know......
A taurus, yes you read that right, aluminum radiator built for an A/C equipped car will bolt right into a C3?
......for like $125
Did you know......
A taurus, yes you read that right, aluminum radiator built for an A/C equipped car will bolt right into a C3?
......for like $125
05-29-2006, 09:23 PM
#23
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by corvetteatv7
WEll you just did your job. When i get one of my first summer paychecks it'll be comiing your way. Thanks for the input. Also do you have a max hp rating for your rads? If not, for someone like me, it is one thing that i liked about b/c's description of theirs. Wether or not it carries any weight...well thats another story.
Thanks
Thanks
This enough cooling power for you?
05-29-2006, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
I know a number of guys running 502BB and 572BB motors in their cars (C1's, C2's and C3's) that are all using DeWitt radiator/fan combos and all of them say their cars run nice and cool even on the hottest days. A 572BB street version is about 620hp straight out of the box before any mods.
This enough cooling power for you?
This enough cooling power for you?
05-29-2006, 10:16 PM
#25
Former Vendor
Originally Posted by corvetteatv7
Also do you have a max hp rating for your rads? Thanks
First, if big HP meant big radiators, you have to look at the new Corvettes. The C6 Z06 is factory 600hp and GM installed a single row aluminum core that's only 24" x 17". That's about half the size of what we make for C3 cars.
I use a different method, and I think a better method. We test our radiators, which costs big money to do, and find the heat rejection number for each model in Btu/m. If you download (pdf) a copy of our new catalog you will see no HP rating but rather btu ratings on every radiator. We also publish the rating of the comparable original copper rating so you can see the exact amount of upgrade you will accomplish.
Why do we do this? Because rating on HP makes no since at all. You can generate more heat racing a 300hp car than street driving a 600hp car. It depends on how the engine is built and how you use it. Some engines will generate twice the heat as an identical HP engine due to poor timing, cam, fuel mixture, and many factors.
Spring is here and all the stores have bar-b-que grills on sale. Each one has a btu rating. This rating tells you the exact heat output so you can compare models. They don't rate them on maximum hot dog capacity. No joking, that's exactly what we are doing when we ask for HP limits.
Why don't the other guys do it with btu's? Because it's hard too do and as I said, that's not what we want to hear. Each time I tell a customer how we do it, and after a lengthy explanation, I get "ok, so how many HP is that"?
If you still want a HP number, just apply the other guys guess. They are similar size, two row, aluminum cores. Typically you will see the radiators rated at about 600 hp and when combined with a fan it's up'd to about 800hp.
05-29-2006, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
That's something I am fighting but it's an up hill battle. Every radiator company uses HP as a guide line because it's "what you want to hear". It's a '"feel good" answer and it doesn't take much thought on either party. The reality is, engine HP is almost meaningless when it comes to cooling. Whoa....before anyone jumps on me here I said "almost".
First, if big HP meant big radiators, you have to look at the new Corvettes. The C6 Z06 is factory 600hp and GM installed a single row aluminum core that's only 24" x 17". That's about half the size of what we make for C3 cars.
I use a different method, and I think a better method. We test our radiators, which costs big money to do, and find the heat rejection number for each model in Btu/m. If you download (pdf) a copy of our new catalog you will see no HP rating but rather btu ratings on every radiator. We also publish the rating of the comparable original copper rating so you can see the exact amount of upgrade you will accomplish.
Why do we do this? Because rating on HP makes no since at all. You can generate more heat racing a 300hp car than street driving a 600hp car. It depends on how the engine is built and how you use it. Some engines will generate twice the heat as an identical HP engine due to poor timing, cam, fuel mixture, and many factors.
Spring is here and all the stores have bar-b-que grills on sale. Each one has a btu rating. This rating tells you the exact heat output so you can compare models. They don't rate them on maximum hot dog capacity. No joking, that's exactly what we are doing when we ask for HP limits.
Why don't the other guys do it with btu's? Because it's hard too do and as I said, that's not what we want to hear. Each time I tell a customer how we do it, and after a lengthy explanation, I get "ok, so how many HP is that"?
If you still want a HP number, just apply the other guys guess. They are similar size, two row, aluminum cores. Typically you will see the radiators rated at about 600 hp and when combined with a fan it's up'd to about 800hp.
First, if big HP meant big radiators, you have to look at the new Corvettes. The C6 Z06 is factory 600hp and GM installed a single row aluminum core that's only 24" x 17". That's about half the size of what we make for C3 cars.
I use a different method, and I think a better method. We test our radiators, which costs big money to do, and find the heat rejection number for each model in Btu/m. If you download (pdf) a copy of our new catalog you will see no HP rating but rather btu ratings on every radiator. We also publish the rating of the comparable original copper rating so you can see the exact amount of upgrade you will accomplish.
Why do we do this? Because rating on HP makes no since at all. You can generate more heat racing a 300hp car than street driving a 600hp car. It depends on how the engine is built and how you use it. Some engines will generate twice the heat as an identical HP engine due to poor timing, cam, fuel mixture, and many factors.
Spring is here and all the stores have bar-b-que grills on sale. Each one has a btu rating. This rating tells you the exact heat output so you can compare models. They don't rate them on maximum hot dog capacity. No joking, that's exactly what we are doing when we ask for HP limits.
Why don't the other guys do it with btu's? Because it's hard too do and as I said, that's not what we want to hear. Each time I tell a customer how we do it, and after a lengthy explanation, I get "ok, so how many HP is that"?
If you still want a HP number, just apply the other guys guess. They are similar size, two row, aluminum cores. Typically you will see the radiators rated at about 600 hp and when combined with a fan it's up'd to about 800hp.
Thanks
05-30-2006, 12:57 AM
#30
Safety Car
I've been following this post with a lot of interest
Got a few C-notes stashed away from working some OT, and thought I might spend it on a set of Koni's, but now, especially with a new 383 in the works, I believe the money would be better spent on a new radiator.
Tom, expect a call within the next few days
Got a few C-notes stashed away from working some OT, and thought I might spend it on a set of Koni's, but now, especially with a new 383 in the works, I believe the money would be better spent on a new radiator.
Tom, expect a call within the next few days
05-30-2006, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
I've been following this post with a lot of interest
Got a few C-notes stashed away from working some OT, and thought I might spend it on a set of Koni's, but now, especially with a new 383 in the works, I believe the money would be better spent on a new radiator.
Tom, expect a call within the next few days
Got a few C-notes stashed away from working some OT, and thought I might spend it on a set of Koni's, but now, especially with a new 383 in the works, I believe the money would be better spent on a new radiator.
Tom, expect a call within the next few days
05-30-2006, 09:19 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by corvetteatv7
See, i'm not the only one that appreciates a companies interest in the forum, and their willingness to explain why their product is better.
This is a man that knows how to stand behind his product, not just in words or written warranties but by action and I can vouch for that personally from my own expereince.
05-30-2006, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
Even more importantly than explaining why their product is good or better, is the customer service AFTER the sale and that's where Tom REALLY beats ANY company out there, radiator or other!
This is a man that knows how to stand behind his product, not just in words or written warranties but by action and I can vouch for that personally from my own expereince.
This is a man that knows how to stand behind his product, not just in words or written warranties but by action and I can vouch for that personally from my own expereince.
05-30-2006, 01:42 PM
#34
Safety Car
My order is in
Got the A63A with the black epoxy coating, should be here in about a week
Thanks for starting this thread corvetteatv7, thanks to you I'll be spending my $$$ a little more wisely!
Got the A63A with the black epoxy coating, should be here in about a week
Thanks for starting this thread corvetteatv7, thanks to you I'll be spending my $$$ a little more wisely!
05-30-2006, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
My order is in
Got the A63A with the black epoxy coating, should be here in about a week
Thanks for starting this thread corvetteatv7, thanks to you I'll be spending my $$$ a little more wisely!
Got the A63A with the black epoxy coating, should be here in about a week
Thanks for starting this thread corvetteatv7, thanks to you I'll be spending my $$$ a little more wisely!
05-30-2006, 05:30 PM
#36
Former Vendor
Thanks guys,
just for fun though, ask the guy at Lowes or Home Depot ...
What's the maximum number of Hot Dogs I can cook?
I'll bet they come up with a number, lol
just for fun though, ask the guy at Lowes or Home Depot ...
What's the maximum number of Hot Dogs I can cook?
I'll bet they come up with a number, lol
05-30-2006, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Thanks guys,
just for fun though, ask the guy at Lowes or Home Depot ...
What's the maximum number of Hot Dogs I can cook?
I'll bet they come up with a number, lol
just for fun though, ask the guy at Lowes or Home Depot ...
What's the maximum number of Hot Dogs I can cook?
I'll bet they come up with a number, lol
05-30-2006, 06:40 PM
#38
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My comments...I bought a Be Cool, this was three years ago so I wasn't familiar with the DeWitts offerings.
I'm not too happy with the four clamp brackets that surround the radiator frame to hold on the big spal fan. They are little loose. I'd like eventually to weld them.
Also, the Be Cool radiator is not exactly compatible with my 68 expansion tank (the aluminum mini-beer keg shaped tank). The BeCool has a pressure cap built into the top of the radiator, whereas the stock Harrison radiator has no pressure cap on it at all. My solution, I took the BeCool radiator cap, and cut off the pressure spring and seal. My BeCool pressure cap, is now simply a cap. The BeCool overflow hose now runs to the 68 expansion tank. This means my pressure cap on the 68 expansion tank regulates coolant pressure. Hope this works.
One positive thing about BeCool is that I have found they do provide good technical support (although the above chopping the spring off their radiator cap was my idea),
Agree completely with DeWitts BTU rating system.
I'm not too happy with the four clamp brackets that surround the radiator frame to hold on the big spal fan. They are little loose. I'd like eventually to weld them.
Also, the Be Cool radiator is not exactly compatible with my 68 expansion tank (the aluminum mini-beer keg shaped tank). The BeCool has a pressure cap built into the top of the radiator, whereas the stock Harrison radiator has no pressure cap on it at all. My solution, I took the BeCool radiator cap, and cut off the pressure spring and seal. My BeCool pressure cap, is now simply a cap. The BeCool overflow hose now runs to the 68 expansion tank. This means my pressure cap on the 68 expansion tank regulates coolant pressure. Hope this works.
One positive thing about BeCool is that I have found they do provide good technical support (although the above chopping the spring off their radiator cap was my idea),
Agree completely with DeWitts BTU rating system.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; 05-30-2006 at 06:43 PM.
05-30-2006, 08:40 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
My comments...I bought a Be Cool, this was three years ago so I wasn't familiar with the DeWitts offerings.
I'm not too happy with the four clamp brackets that surround the radiator frame to hold on the big spal fan. They are little loose. I'd like eventually to weld them.
Also, the Be Cool radiator is not exactly compatible with my 68 expansion tank (the aluminum mini-beer keg shaped tank). The BeCool has a pressure cap built into the top of the radiator, whereas the stock Harrison radiator has no pressure cap on it at all. My solution, I took the BeCool radiator cap, and cut off the pressure spring and seal. My BeCool pressure cap, is now simply a cap. The BeCool overflow hose now runs to the 68 expansion tank. This means my pressure cap on the 68 expansion tank regulates coolant pressure. Hope this works.
One positive thing about BeCool is that I have found they do provide good technical support (although the above chopping the spring off their radiator cap was my idea),
Agree completely with DeWitts BTU rating system.
I'm not too happy with the four clamp brackets that surround the radiator frame to hold on the big spal fan. They are little loose. I'd like eventually to weld them.
Also, the Be Cool radiator is not exactly compatible with my 68 expansion tank (the aluminum mini-beer keg shaped tank). The BeCool has a pressure cap built into the top of the radiator, whereas the stock Harrison radiator has no pressure cap on it at all. My solution, I took the BeCool radiator cap, and cut off the pressure spring and seal. My BeCool pressure cap, is now simply a cap. The BeCool overflow hose now runs to the 68 expansion tank. This means my pressure cap on the 68 expansion tank regulates coolant pressure. Hope this works.
One positive thing about BeCool is that I have found they do provide good technical support (although the above chopping the spring off their radiator cap was my idea),
Agree completely with DeWitts BTU rating system.
