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I have no opinion on Zip and their rebuilds. I always thought they were a catalog company. Did you ask if they do the work or farm it out? I had my 66 differential rebuilt, and my neighbor had his 73 done, by a retired airline mechanic who only does differentials, trailing arms, steering boxes, and transmissions. He does quite a bit of work for some of these catalog companies. I will say his work is great.
If you want his name and number, e-mail me off line. I know him personally and he as honest and fair as the day is long.
It would be my guess that they farm out the work just as they would with t-arms, etc. You know they mark up the price some, but if you're close to them and can drop it off at their store their markup might be offset by the shipping charges if you sent it yourself to have it rebuilt.
My first question would be where do they send them. I'd be willing to bet someone here will have heard of it or dealt with them already.
Contact Van Steel, Art does most of the rebuilding for the major suppliers, he did a fantastic job on mine and a gear change was only $255 which included the price of new Dana Spicer gears. I think Bairs also does some rebuilds, and if I'm correct Van Steel and Bairs pretty much do business with each other.
I would agree with CWUin82, that they farm out the rebuild process. Vansteel claims rebuilds start out at $412. I just had vansteel redo mine. Talk to Art and negotiate with him a bit and he will give you a deal. Everythime I call him I just negotiate a bit ask him what his price is and then ask what kind of deal he can give me and he usually takes off from the price.
When you have your rearend rebuilt I would put in new ring and pinion. Getting the used ones to match exactly as they were is a 50/50 propostion. If they are not matched exactly you will get a howling noise from the rear end.
When you have your rearend rebuilt I would put in new ring and pinion. Getting the used ones to match exactly as they were is a 50/50 propostion. If they are not matched exactly you will get a howling noise from the rear end.
That's the problem I'm having right now. My rear is howling like mad, and the side yoke popped out.
I called Zip and talked to the guy that does the diffs in house. They don't farm the work out. They only use Eaton early style clutch packs and they use Richmond gears and Timken bearings. The only thing is I know mine will need a new ring and pinion, so I'm probably looking closer to 795 for a rebuilt rear. I can get it locally at that price.
Got my 3.54's from ZIP. They do rebuilds in-house. Mine was crap and will probably end up sending it back under warranty. First indication was fluid running out of the pinion seal when I first filled it up. :cuss Bummer. Turns out they put in the wrong seal. I bought a new GM seal and fixed it. I also have noise and vibrations, but I'm not certain the vibrations are caused by the gears. Since I'm running at higher rpm's than before it could simply be the shafts or even the wheels. But... I did drain the fluid out after about 200 miles and noticed metal dust suspended in the lube. I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt and will drain it out again soon and see if it's as bad as before. If so, it's going back, but what a PITA to tackle that job again!!
Wow, sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I found a guy locally who builds bulletproof rears at a good price. I think I'll be getting it done locally.
Chris,
Justin here at Zip, If you are having a problem with your diff please call me ASAP so that we can fix the problem. As far as the seal we did have a supplier send the wrong seal and that has also been taken care of. It does not happen very often but sometimes things happen that you do not want to happen. As far as the metal in the oil, it will be there however you changed the oil too early, you need to put between 600 and 1000 miles on it before you change the oil. The metal you are seeing is from the new gears and bearings breaking in and it is normal. If you continue to have a problem let me know and we will fix the problem. Sincerly, Justin Abbott
Zip Products does all of there rear and trailing arm in house. We also supply them to some of the "catalog companies". Our prices reflect what we think they should sell for and not what other companies are trying to get for them.
All of our parts that go into them are the highest quality that you can get and no short cuts are taken to save money on the rebuild. We use Timekin bearings, Eaton clutch paks for the 65-79's and Dana/Spicer for the 80-96 Dana rears. Eaton is who made the diffs for Chevrolet and supplied the clutches to them for sell over the counter. Also on the clutch pack we use the first design which is much stronger than the second design. Our gears either come from Richmond or DTS. If anyone has specific questions I will be more than happy to answer them or if you have a special request that you want done to your rear please e-mail me at jabbott@zip-corvette.com. Thank you.
Justin... Glad to see the ZIP folks are keeping tabs on things on the Forum. I didn't know the oil could be changed 'too' early as long as I change it again after a break-in period. Yep, that was a bummer seeing the oil come out from the pinion seal. Only glad I opted to fill it before putting the unit back on the car. That would have required some valium :crazy: I'll change the oil again after another 400 or so miles and check it out. I'm also going to pull the driveshaft and have it balanced. I already checked the rear wheels, and they were off, plus had to use lots of weights to balance them, so I'm a bit suspicious. It did seem to really help the vibration problem though and even some of the noise. The tires must be out of whack to be that far off, so looks like I'll be changing those as well. Hmm, time for some TT II's :yesnod: I'll contact you if I still have an issue after eliminating these other possibilities. Tnx.