details for six speed swap wanted
09-02-2001, 06:07 PM
#1
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details for six speed swap wanted
I want to install a six speed transmission in my 71 BB to improve the drivability etc. A Richmond ROD looks like the easiest (?) way to go, but I need specific information regarding the installation. I have tried a search on the forum but can't seem to find any details. Some sources say that the crossmember needs to be extensively modified while others suggest only the actual tran. mount bracket has to be changed. I do not want the expense or difficulty of cutting the crossmember if possible and am prepared to do the install via a engine/trans. re and re if necessary. Any details (or drawings/photos of the mount/crossmember mods) would be great.
09-02-2001, 10:54 PM
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Re: details for six speed swap wanted (msn71)
Your new mount will sit approx 1 inch to an 1 1/2 in front of your crossmember. Get the driveshaft resized and your in business. On my first attemp I bolted a piece of angle iron to the crossmember and bolted the mount to that. I am currently using a tubular x member that was made for a 700r4 in which I modified :smash: to fit the ROD.
lemme know if you have any Q's GP :smash:
lemme know if you have any Q's GP :smash:
09-02-2001, 10:55 PM
#3
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Re: details for six speed swap wanted (msn71)
I have a 5 speed. The 6 and 5 speed are identical, except for the OD. Think you have to remove the crossmember for easier installation. You also have to modify the the tranny bracket.
Do a search on Richmond 6 speed, select archives. there is information there
Do a search on Richmond 6 speed, select archives. there is information there
09-02-2001, 11:46 PM
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Re: details for six speed swap wanted (msn71)
Check 80vette's posting of 6-14-99 under topic of "6-speed (ROD)" less quotes; he installed the Richmond ROD into his '80. I also believe that the Feb98 issue of Vette Magazine details the 6-speed swap but personally haven't read it.
09-03-2001, 03:55 AM
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Melting Slicks
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Re: details for six speed swap wanted (msn71)
I've got the ROD in my 69 L88. I highly recommend it! I did not modify the crossmember. I was vehemently against doing so. Now I wish I had. When my clutch becomes ready for replacement, I will cut out the crossmember and fabricate a bolt up arrangement. This will make the job a piece of cake by comparison. A shame that I didn't do it earlier when I had the body off the car.
I had to shorten my driveshaft (had a new one made), bought a proper rear tranny yoke for the Turbo 400 (not all Turbo 400 use the correct yoke for this application!) and had to fabricate my own transmission mount. The poly ones available are too tall. I made one from 3/4" or maybe 7/8ths" aluminum bar stock and sandwiched 2 pieces (1/4" combined) of rubber tail pipe strapping in between the bar stock and the trans. As I recall, I used Heili coils in the bar stock to bolt from the cross member to the bar stock. I counter sunk the bar stock for the counter sink alum head bolts I used for a flush surface to bolt the bar stock and rubber strap to the trans. This worked really well! The rubber strapping is very tough reinforced material. The poly mounts have very little give, I am sure I have at least as much vibration or torque absorption in mine.
The Longs shifter that comes with the trans is absolutely first class!!! Heim joints to the trans, very slick and beefy unit. You will have to trim some of the rod ends to clear the crossmember.
I also enlarged the cutout for the shifter lever in the trans tunnel for easier access. Once completed, I squared up the hole and used heavy gage aluminum sheeting to cover the hole. I shaped it with a rubber mallet over various pipes, drums, etc around the garage to make a really nice fit and then pop riveted it to the tunnel. Riveting from the top, use small washers on the expansion side of the rivets below as it is seating against fiberglass. I riveted approximately every 2" as I went around. I then used a small Hurst shifter boot for the inside boot.
With a 3.08 rear end I really feel I have a gear for every need. I have the equivalent of a drag race 4.56 geared car for 1st, and a 2.56 LeMans type gearing for 6th. (I recommend the stronger .82 overdrive for 6th which was recommend to me by Dean Scanhorn (sp?) of Richmond Gear)
My original thought was to simply pull the engine with the trans when if comes time to change the clutch. I used to pull the engine out just to paint it on more than a few occasions when it was only a young small block (it grew over the years!). I just have so much more stuff that needs to be removed now. Maybe I'm just getting lazy in my old age. But I'm not too old to want to row my own gears! You will love the Richmond 6 speed.:cheers:
Chuck
[Modified by Chuck Harmon, 11:58 PM 9/2/2001]
I had to shorten my driveshaft (had a new one made), bought a proper rear tranny yoke for the Turbo 400 (not all Turbo 400 use the correct yoke for this application!) and had to fabricate my own transmission mount. The poly ones available are too tall. I made one from 3/4" or maybe 7/8ths" aluminum bar stock and sandwiched 2 pieces (1/4" combined) of rubber tail pipe strapping in between the bar stock and the trans. As I recall, I used Heili coils in the bar stock to bolt from the cross member to the bar stock. I counter sunk the bar stock for the counter sink alum head bolts I used for a flush surface to bolt the bar stock and rubber strap to the trans. This worked really well! The rubber strapping is very tough reinforced material. The poly mounts have very little give, I am sure I have at least as much vibration or torque absorption in mine.
The Longs shifter that comes with the trans is absolutely first class!!! Heim joints to the trans, very slick and beefy unit. You will have to trim some of the rod ends to clear the crossmember.
I also enlarged the cutout for the shifter lever in the trans tunnel for easier access. Once completed, I squared up the hole and used heavy gage aluminum sheeting to cover the hole. I shaped it with a rubber mallet over various pipes, drums, etc around the garage to make a really nice fit and then pop riveted it to the tunnel. Riveting from the top, use small washers on the expansion side of the rivets below as it is seating against fiberglass. I riveted approximately every 2" as I went around. I then used a small Hurst shifter boot for the inside boot.
With a 3.08 rear end I really feel I have a gear for every need. I have the equivalent of a drag race 4.56 geared car for 1st, and a 2.56 LeMans type gearing for 6th. (I recommend the stronger .82 overdrive for 6th which was recommend to me by Dean Scanhorn (sp?) of Richmond Gear)
My original thought was to simply pull the engine with the trans when if comes time to change the clutch. I used to pull the engine out just to paint it on more than a few occasions when it was only a young small block (it grew over the years!). I just have so much more stuff that needs to be removed now. Maybe I'm just getting lazy in my old age. But I'm not too old to want to row my own gears! You will love the Richmond 6 speed.:cheers:
Chuck
[Modified by Chuck Harmon, 11:58 PM 9/2/2001]